3 Amigos on after off roading in deep mud

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Dublindisco

Active Member
Posts
119
Ok so took the Disco through some very deep riverbed mud, got stuck a few times but eventually got it out.

Washed the underside off by driving through a freshwater river up to door sills and when I got home power washed the wheels, underside and engine bay.

All was fine for a day then when driving the tc and abs lights came on intermittently.

These would disappear when engine turned off. Later that day was driving along on a flat road and DING DING DING... 3 amigos on.

Have removed the two front wheels and hosed off alot of mud from calipers and plan to do same to the rear wheels tomorrow.

Could the wheels being caked in mud cause the lights to come on? And if I power wash each wheel, caliper etc will the lights go off again when driven for a distance. Might even take off brake discs to clear out all mud.

I only recently replaced a front wheel hub to get rid of the 3 lights and now they are back on coming into the winter.

Any help appreciated.

ps. was going to jack up each wheel individually and turn on ignition and drive that wheel to see if the speedo moves, would that indicate which wheel is giving the problem if the speedo stayed at 0?

Thanks again....
 
Am in Dublin so would have to go to indy garage. Not too many hawkeye or nanocoms over here.

Dealer is the usual €100+ for diagnostic and over here the earliest they could see you is 2-6 weeks and would require you to leave it in for 1-2 days :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
So i jacked up each wheel separately and engaged first gear and let out the clutch.

Speedo moved for each wheel apart from front drivers side wheel... It stayed at 0mph.

So I can take from this that it is this sensor that is causing the 3 amigos?

Gonna check wiring first as I have it wired directly into slabs ecu under glove box.
 
in this case yes you can... nice job... so if you jack up one wheel and release the clutch in gear the car doesnt move at all??
 
so if you jack up one wheel and release the clutch in gear the car doesnt move at all??

I say it would have if it let the clutch all the way out. I only let it slightly off the biting point and the speedo moved up to 15-20mph with only one wheel moving.

I started to let clutch out a bit more but it started to move forward slightly as i heard scraping on the axel stand, so i quickly let clutch back down.
 
I may be completely wrong as have never looked on a TD5 but could be some crap on an ABS sensor causing the issue, the sensor rings are normally on the inside of the wheel bearing. Maybe get under there with a compressed air line and give them a good blast. I would start with the wheel thats not reading the speed.
 
Tested the abs sensor wire with a multimeter at the slabs ecu..

Resistance is normal about 975-1000 on each sensor including the one that is giving the speedo reading of 0mph.

Tested the voltage on the bogey sensor with the wheel moving about 20mph and it gave a blank 0. Didn't change at all.
 
i see you know what you are doing so i suppose you checked with votmeter set on AC low range didnt you?

the resistance is in range so if no AC voltage there with wheel spinning then IMO you need a new hub as the reluctor ring is out of place... wait for confirmation with tester before you spend money though...you can ride it with 3 amigos on without fear
 
Took out the abs sensor today and its not chewed up. Inspected the reluctor ring and all the teeth look intact.

see vid here...
Discovery 2 abs reluctor ring - YouTube

I just can figure out what is wrong. The sensor resistance is normal, but it just will not give a signal to the slabs ecu.

Speedo stays at 0mph and no voltage output on multimeter.

There is no play in the hub.

Am I wasting my money buying a replacement abs sensor or should I just fork out for a new hub with sensor already installed.

The abs system really is bollix in these discos!!
 
just confirm you measured on AC max 5V setting on the same place you measured the resistance as if you turn the wheel with your hand you must get up to 1.5V not more...and if it's so go for a new hub without remorse.... but i must insist to wait untill you plug it in a tester;)...or if you like to work out your muscles swap the hubs between them ...maybe you'll have the surprise that after that it will work(happened, as it will turn the other way arund)...at least you'll see if the fault goes to the other side or not;)
 
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just confirm you measured on AC max 5V setting on the same place you measured the resistance as if you turn the wheel with your hand you must get up to 1.5V not more...and if it's so go for a new hub without remorse.... but i must insist to wait untill you plug it in a tester;)...or if you like to work out your muscles swap the hubs between them ...maybe you'll have the surprise that after that it will work(happened, as it will turn the other way arund)...at least you'll see if the fault goes to the other side or not;)

Yup AC max 5v

Would actually swap the hubs, have everything to do the job apart from a hub puller.

Last time I changed a hub i had to take the entire hub and half shaft to a garage with a press to get the hub off it.
 
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