Option B changed error codes / What's next?

Hi fellas,

I'm kind of new in the forum as I purchased my Defender Td5 110 (2001) last November 2023.
Last week I executed "Option B" to remove the "3 Amigos" lights, I thought it worked but now I got another code that turn the lights back on. Here is the sequence of codes:

1. Originally my scanner (ThinkScan) shows these error codes:
- Shuttle Valve Switch Long Term Failure.
- ECU Ground Or Reference Ground Fault.

2. I did the "Option B" solution last week and the 3 Amigos lights went off.

3. Today the 3 Amigos came back, and after scan the Defender again, I found only this error code:
- Shuttle valve failure.

Now I wonder if the issue is with the "SLABS ECU"? But not sure how to test that.
Any guide is very much appreciated.

Thanks.

Kerly900 said:

Hi fellas,

I'm kind of new in the forum as I purchased my Defender Td5 110 (2001) last November 2023.
Last week I executed "Option B" to remove the "3 Amigos" lights, I thought it worked but now I got another code that turn the lights back on. Here is the sequence of codes:

1. Originally my scanner (ThinkScan) shows these error codes:
- Shuttle Valve Switch Long Term Failure.
- ECU Ground Or Reference Ground Fault.

2. I did the "Option B" solution last week and the 3 Amigos lights went off.

3. Today the 3 Amigos came back, and after scan the Defender again, I found only this error code:
- Shuttle valve failure.

Now I wonder if the issue is with the "SLABS ECU"? But not sure how to test that.
Any guide is very much appreciated.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Hi, i've just seen this... how did you make the option B? did you cut out the switch pack's plug and prolonged out the wires or you spliced into them with connector left there? Some sch,ucks whodont really understand how this system work posted tutorials on the net with wires spliced into the existing circuit and for that's wrong, it works only if the fault is an open circuit within the modulator but if it's short circuit that one stays in parallel with the wiring mod so the wholething is useless, if you didnt cut the wires d the mod correctly but if you did and still get the SVS fault you have to check the switch pack's resistances as necessary, if these are OK check the two ground wires in front of the airbox to be tight. After all these things were ruled out and still no joy the ECU becomes suspect

Understood, yes I did Option B with the 'cutting the wires' method. I will check those 2 wires you mentioned in front the airbox. Actually I noticed these 2 wires plug here with no ending... Do you know what they are for?

I dont know what that plug is for but did you check the switch pack's resistances in all 3 positions before the wiring mod?

I did not check before, just after, as described on the option B guide.
I was thinking about that plug, as you mentioned there are 2 wires in front of airbox, sorry.

I will take a look tomorrow and let you know.

Kerly900 said:

I did not check before, just after, as described on the option B guide.

Click to expand...

and are they all OK?

Kerly900 said:

I was thinking about that plug, as you mentioned there are 2 wires in front of airbox, sorry.

Click to expand...

Forget about that as my mind was set for a D2, for Defender check C0362 to be well connected and continuity to the round light grey plug with one black wire behind the modulator... if all these are OK there is a bad contact on the SVS input to the ECU or ECU fault