3 amigos, I know, please read!!

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td5 oscar

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All the usual, 3 amiogos came on. Read and clear codes, new abs sensor fitted o/s rear, came on again, replacement sensor fitted as resistance was out of range on senssor. Came on again so new hub and sensor fitted, ok for a couple of weeks, came on again read and clear codes, still o/s rear sensor electrical circuit intermitant reading or no signal. :)mad:sees me bum now:confused:) Removed glove box and abs ecu, disconnected rear and front sensors, checked all sensor resistances and wiring from ecu plug to sensors for shorts, all ok. Checked wave form from sensors and all ok. Has any one else had this kind of fault? could it possibly be abs ecu and if so does a replacement need coding to vehicle? Obviously the warning lights are coming on and pinging at me but i usually only get the abs and traction control light coming on and not the hdc light. Sometimes the traction control will kick in as i pull awat from my drive in the morning but there is no wheel slip at all and the abs sometimes kicks in when you brake but again no wheel skid is felt (tarmac road, dry and nearly new bfg all terains) Any and all help appreciated as im running out of ideas. Cheers John.
 
have you checked the wave pattern whilst on the move? just had same prob with a mates td5 he ended up with new bearing and sensor..also the sensor was breaking down only at speed,had 3 different sensors till we sorted it..another no brainer...check the tyre pressures..sounds dumb i know but if one tyre is low then the ecu detects the difference in wheel speed and brings on the dreaded lights..also what prog you using to code read, as many cheaper after market readers will give an incorrect code...
hth andy
 
Hia mad mechanic, thanks for the reply. I have fitted a new wheel hub and sensor assembly to the o/s rear as that is the one that keeps flagging on the scanner. I am using a snap on solus scanner running the latest software on it. I havent tried testing the wave form on the move yet only stationary with the wheels jacked up one at a time. Went out in it today and the abs and traction control lights came on after about 5 mile , switched off then back on and no more lights for the rest of the day (about 50 mile) I will code read it again tomorrow in work but there wont be a code logged if it dont flash the lights at me again. I can only get a code if the lights come on and i code read it before switching the ignition off. Must only be an intermitant/minor fault as it doesnt log it fully but erases it when you turn the ignition off. Do you have to code in a replacement ecu as i can borrow one off a customer of mine for a day or two but i dont want to plug it in and lose my or his coding?? Thank you.
 
td5 oscar said:
Went out in it today and the abs and traction control lights came on after about 5 mile , switched off then back on and no more lights for the rest of the day (about 50 mile) I will code read it again tomorrow in work but there wont be a code logged if it dont flash the lights at me again. I can only get a code if the lights come on and i code read it before switching the ignition off. Must only be an intermitant/minor fault as it doesnt log it fully but erases it when you turn the ignition off.
Click to expand...
Two lights on will cancel when you switch off ignition. 3 lights stay on until you fix the problem (keep talking folks - I've got all three on at the moment. Again.:mad:)
 
we fitted a secondhand abs pump and ecu and had no problems with it no coding was needed. used the launch to bleed the systme and actuate the abs pump to make sure all was well...its been ok for a few eeks now so hopefully we have cured it. he had already changed the shuttle valves in the old abs unit and it was bring all sorts of codes up..non were relevent at all to the fault but as i say he has been ok for a few weeks so hopefully its sorted. btw the sensor he fitted failed after 50 miles too..he changed it for another one but had no effect.
 
Did you fix it John? Saga on mine so far: fitted new sensor. No change. Fitted new rear hub. Problem cured. 6 months later, problem's back. Two lights at first, then three. Test showed it was the same hub, so hub changed again. Now I'm getting two lights again, plus the abs faults you mention. Did you get yours sorted?

Desperate Dave.
 
The answer may be a new ecu,DII SLABS ecu's were rubbish in the software dept,the upgrade one - think its SRD50070 is the answer.DII wheel speedsensor signals are quite weak,even when new,so the software needs to be quite tolerant.
 
eightinavee said:
The answer may be a new ecu,DII SLABS ecu's were rubbish in the software dept,the upgrade one - think its SRD50070 is the answer.DII wheel speedsensor signals are quite weak,even when new,so the software needs to be quite tolerant.
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Thanks. I feared as much, but it's good to know where to start looking!
 
I've had the 3 amigos intermittently since last November. They could usually be reset by switching the ignition off and on. They got progressively persistent after Christmas to the point they would come on every time I drove more than about 15 miles in one journey.
Finally got a mate to plug it into the diagnostic tool at his garage and it showed a fault with the ABS shuttle valve solenoids.
Took it to Mark Smith at Woodside who told me it's a common fault and they replaced the solenoid assembly while I waited, costing me £78. No lights since :eek:)
 
Mike Jones said:
I've had the 3 amigos intermittently since last November. They could usually be reset by switching the ignition off and on. They got progressively persistent after Christmas to the point they would come on every time I drove more than about 15 miles in one journey.
Finally got a mate to plug it into the diagnostic tool at his garage and it showed a fault with the ABS shuttle valve solenoids.
Took it to Mark Smith at Woodside who told me it's a common fault and they replaced the solenoid assembly while I waited, costing me £78. No lights since :eek:)
Click to expand...

What they replaced was the shuttle valve switches, but unfortunately it often only "temp" fixes the fault, sometimes not at all.
 
Urban Panzer said:
What they replaced was the shuttle valve switches, but unfortunately it often only "temp" fixes the fault, sometimes not at all.
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Fingers crossed then. It's been 5 days now and I drove over 80 miles yesterday.
It was the switches showing as the fault (114) on the diagnostic computer.
 
I am having the same problem after garage replaced CV gaitor on N/S/F, TC, Hill decent and abs light on. As soon as you turn key and have car idleing fews sec's later all lights are on I will add the abs one is on as soon as key turned the other 2 come on a few sec's later
 
Sounds like they've disturbed something like the wheel speed sensor.
Mine is still OK 10,000 miles after replacing the ABS SVS switches (£70 fitted). They came on once and I found the front NS tyre was at half pressure.
 
Last edited:
James5 said:
I am having the same problem after garage replaced CV gaitor on N/S/F, TC, Hill decent and abs light on. As soon as you turn key and have car idleing fews sec's later all lights are on I will add the abs one is on as soon as key turned the other 2 come on a few sec's later
Click to expand...

If it didn't do this before the gaiter change you should take it back to the garage and ask them to recheck their work..they may have disturbed something around the abs sensor etc..
 
Bolsover said:
If it didn't do this before the gaiter change you should take it back to the garage and ask them to recheck their work..they may have disturbed something around the abs sensor etc..
Click to expand...
Fully agree!
I'm very lucky to have a good specialist just down the road from me.
 
Thing is I don't want them to mess anything else up so would rather fix the fault myself as I normally do all the repairs myself on my car's only took it to the garage for MOT and let them do the work as I am currently in the process of doing a restoration project on the house.

Cheers for all the adives
 
Hi
I had the 3 amigos a few years back! Would come on at any unpredictable time - usually could be cancelled by restarting the engine.
Computer said '134 shuttle valve relay electrical fault' and on garage's advice we replaced ABS modulator (with a remanuf. one - I'm not entirely stupid or made of money)
However two years on (and out of warranty) they're back - with usual fault code '134 shuttle valve relay electrical fault' !
Not wishing to rent peace of mind for two years for another £250 - I have seen the suggestion in various places of by-passing the circuit board on the ABS modulator - connecting the SVS to the green/black wire and to earth. A[pparently its the accepted thing among Landys and Hummers in USA and Australia where main stealers are multi-miles away.
Does it work? Does the modulator still do what it should do? If so why do WABC include the curcuit board in the first place?
Any advice would be welcome
 
LR overcomplicated and made it too sensitive...it will work normally after the mod.... the 3 amigos will come only if a real fault will occure this way ...though it can be an earth issue too, see this link and the two links to the technical bulletins within ABS Mod - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.
 
hi thanks for the replies.
i get the three amigos bit now, im in rotherham, does anybody know of a good place to take it to get it mended. landrover want £100 to put it on diagnostic, im sure one of you magic people can put it right for me, im willing to pay, i just dont want my pants down by landrover dealers.
 
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