3 Amigos & Hub Assy

Nanocom tells me I have a problem with the front nearside wheel so bought a
Hub + Sensor. The thing is, I'm only getting the slightest of movement on the wheel (my mate thinks there isn't any movement at all!!) I convinced the hub is on its way anyway. Would it be ok for me to just fit the the sensor only from the assy or should I change the whole assy as i've bought it anyway? I'm reading that the Wabco sensor should be left well alone. I'm kinda leaning towards option 2. Opinions gratly appreciated.

If there is the slightest play it will fault.If you have a new hub assembly just fit it - will be alot less hassle.

Agree with eightinavee there, all ABS-fitted vehicles have very close-tolerance bearings so that the ABS sensors get a consistent reading.

Once you start getting play in the bearings, then the assembly is on the way out and needs to be changed.

I don't know what the final failure mode is, but I wouldn't like to be driving a 2+ ton vehicle when it let go.

Peter

I'm assuming a TD5:
Fitting the sensor is a bit fiddly and if you've got a new hub it's not much more work to fit it.
LR now supply an upgraded sensor which connects directly to the SLABS ECU, bypassing the harness connector. Not all replacements have this.
If it's an early TD5 this may not cure the problem. If so, you'll need to upgrade the SLABS ECU. See http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/warning-lights-mayday-82532.html (sorry, just had to edit that)

I've never suscribed to the extendend sensor lead that LR supply as a solution - as it still provides an oppertunity to bend the sensor when fitting.It is me that keeps on about seating the sensor with silicone rather than using the o ring.I've been to so many garages where they have apparently listened to what I said then taken no notice - often not even cleaning the area where the sensor seats.
There is no problem with buying aftermarket sensors from Bearmach/Britpart etc,as they all appear to be made by Wabco and are a darn sight easier to fit - many garages just cut the long lead and solder/heatshrink the old plug back on.
The sensors themselves seem reliable,most often the conductors snap inside the insulation and go open circuit when turning or going over bumps etc.This gives a "Sensor electrical failure" fault - this is a reliable code,unless the ignition is switched on with the sensor disconnected.
The big problem with changing sensors is that even new hubs/sensors have a very low output - esp compared to earlier LR products.Any loss of output will give an "Erratic" or "Low output" code.I have fitted new sensors on hubs with no play and scoped their output,compared it to the other side - exactly the same.Run for a week and the lights come back on ! Fit a new hub and its fine.You still get the odd one that is even more persistant,as mentioned the upgraded SLABS ecu offers the cure.The Upgraded ecu works well,I think the TC and ABS work alot better with them,shame some dealers tried off loading the earlier part number on unsuspecting owners.Having the TC come on at 65mph on a straight dry road is an odd sensation.

Experience says Mr Eight is spot on.