Drivetrain bolts?

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Wizard2003

Wizard2003

Active Member
Posts
111
Location
Carrickfergus
Just bought a 2005 TD4 5 door Freelander and it's been converted to 2WD, the previous owner had traded it in so the guy I bought it off knew nothing of why it was done.

I thought doing that was an MOT failure but it has just past it (Northern Ireland so can't be faked) plus I've done a vehicle check on it as well and all was good.

Just wondering if anyone can give reasons as to why someone would do this?

The dealer guy said it might be IRD problem or rear diff but the car drives really good, no knocks or noises at all and everything looks to be in good condition.

The car looks to be taken good care off.

I am planning to convert it back to 4WD some time in the next few months but just wanting to know what to look for before I start getting the parts.
 
Normally the propshafts are removed because either the VCU has gone stiff, and is overloading the IRD. Or the vehicle has been used with incorrect tyres, causing the VCU to transfer too much torque, overloading of the IRD.
There is also the excuse "converted to 2WD for fuel economy" , but that's BS, as there's almost zero difference in economy with the props removed. Normally the reason is an issue with the IRD, VCU or both, the economy BS just used to hide the true issue.
Before thinking about converting back to AWD, drain the oil from the IRD for a look. Black oil is ok but old. Grey oil means metal in the oil, which means the IRD needs a rebuild.
Also before converting back to AWD, you'll need to have 4 identical tyres all round, and the VCU needs to be a known good one, or a reconditioned unit from a specialist like Bell Engineering.
 
There are a number of threads about this. Some of them have conclusions as to what happened when the props were put back on.

Use the search button above, or (probably a better way of finding them) is to use Google as the Freelander threads are indexed by them.
 
Thanks Nodge, I was thinking it was just a VCU problem that caused them to do it. If it did damage the IRD surely there would be a noise or other problems while driving still?

Regarding the tyres I'm going to do a lift kit and put ATs on, so they will all be the same by the time I convert back. I've heard that Bell Engineering is could for reconditioned VCUs thanks.
 
Wizard2003 said:
Thanks Nodge, I was thinking it was just a VCU problem that caused them to do it. If it did damage the IRD surely there would be a noise or other problems while driving still?

Regarding the tyres I'm going to do a lift kit and put ATs on, so they will all be the same by the time I convert back. I've heard that Bell Engineering is could for reconditioned VCUs thanks.
Click to expand...
An IRD has two separate power paths through it. There's the power path to the front wheels, and a second power path for the rear output. It's possible for the rear output to go noisy when under load, but go silent once the load is removed, as the drive to the front wheels is unaffected, at least until the bearings collapse completely, rendering the whole unit as scrap.
 
DON'T drain the oil from the IRD until you first remove the fill plug. The reason being if you round off the fill plug) which are made of chocolate) & have already drained the oil you're in for a lot of aggro !
 
Not wishing to open a new thread (and unable to find the answer to my specific query using the search function, even though it may just be me!)...

...... my Freelander td4 was bought without a prop (MOT expired and a few other minor things, now fixed), and running 2wd....

.... as it will be used for a 1-way trip to Gambia, I want it 4wd for the sandy bits across the Sahara desert.

I have located a prop from a breaker (where the 4wd system was working fine, so although I will test it, I expect the viscous coupling to be okay). I have no idea why the prop was removed (it was like it when the bloke I got it from bought it) - but if it was a duff prop, then this one isn't it!

I am aware that damage caused by a duff viscous *may* have damaged the IRD, but it appears tight enough, with no swarf in the oil (yes, I took the fill plug out before dropping the oil!!).

I won't know if it is working until I fit the prop and test it..... at that point I may be in for a rebuild of the IRD or may not (but would probably look for a used one that works, due to the nature of the purpose of the vehicle).

I have 4 'like' tyres with equal tread, so that isn't an issue.

So that brings me to my question..... I don't have the bolts to fit it, and have seen that a 'kit' is available on ebay and other places for prices between £30-£60.

However, being a tight-arse, how important is it to use the 'proper' kit, or can I use any bolts of the correct size/spec?

So, can someone tell me the length of the M8 flanged bolts at the IRD end, and the M10 bolts at the rear (and the centre bearing ones as well, if known!).

I can make up the curved washer plate things, or does it actually need them?

Are the bolts just 8.8 grade, or 10.9 or more??

I have no problem with having to buy 'proper' ones if necessary, but certainly at the first stage of just seeing if it all works, I'd rather not. Maybe just throw it together with some M8 bolts I can find in the garage and if it works, either leave it and hope for the best, or then buy a proper kit??????

Any thoughts?
 
dapinky said:
Not wishing to open a new thread (and unable to find the answer to my specific query using the search function, even though it may just be me!)...

...... my Freelander td4 was bought without a prop (MOT expired and a few other minor things, now fixed), and running 2wd....

.... as it will be used for a 1-way trip to Gambia, I want it 4wd for the sandy bits across the Sahara desert.

I have located a prop from a breaker (where the 4wd system was working fine, so although I will test it, I expect the viscous coupling to be okay). I have no idea why the prop was removed (it was like it when the bloke I got it from bought it) - but if it was a duff prop, then this one isn't it!

I am aware that damage caused by a duff viscous *may* have damaged the IRD, but it appears tight enough, with no swarf in the oil (yes, I took the fill plug out before dropping the oil!!).

I won't know if it is working until I fit the prop and test it..... at that point I may be in for a rebuild of the IRD or may not (but would probably look for a used one that works, due to the nature of the purpose of the vehicle).

I have 4 'like' tyres with equal tread, so that isn't an issue.

So that brings me to my question..... I don't have the bolts to fit it, and have seen that a 'kit' is available on ebay and other places for prices between £30-£60.

However, being a tight-arse, how important is it to use the 'proper' kit, or can I use any bolts of the correct size/spec?

So, can someone tell me the length of the M8 flanged bolts at the IRD end, and the M10 bolts at the rear (and the centre bearing ones as well, if known!).

I can make up the curved washer plate things, or does it actually need them?

Are the bolts just 8.8 grade, or 10.9 or more??

I have no problem with having to buy 'proper' ones if necessary, but certainly at the first stage of just seeing if it all works, I'd rather not. Maybe just throw it together with some M8 bolts I can find in the garage and if it works, either leave it and hope for the best, or then buy a proper kit??????

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
I haven't got around to doing mine yet, working through the other problems with the car 😀 but (and I think other will agree) always go with new/original parts or good second hand ones. Never use off brand or random bolts especially for the drive train!
 
I accept that using wrong bolts on drivetrain isn't a good idea, which is why I asked for the actual specs of the bolts (if known).

It is more to check that things work before fitting a 'proper' set. However, now I've looked at the bolts for the front, I can see that they are M8x90 flanged - but a 'standard' DIN6921 has a head diameter which may not allow it to seat correctly anyway, so would need to be modified..... but I can use some threaded rod very temporarily....

I think that spending out on a used set and fitting new flanged nylocks is the best way to do it.
 
dapinky said:
I accept that using wrong bolts on drivetrain isn't a good idea, which is why I asked for the actual specs of the bolts (if known).

It is more to check that things work before fitting a 'proper' set. However, now I've looked at the bolts for the front, I can see that they are M8x90 flanged - but a 'standard' DIN6921 has a head diameter which may not allow it to seat correctly anyway, so would need to be modified..... but I can use some threaded rod very temporarily....

I think that spending out on a used set and fitting new flanged nylocks is the best way to do it.
Click to expand...
Sorry, even though I've had a few landies I'd still call myself a novice with the mechanics. Don't know the spec of the bolts.

I'll change the name of this thread and see if anybody else can help.
 
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