2013 Freelander 2 SD4 Auto slight jerk when pulling away

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BazFleck

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6
Hi

Hope someone can help I have 2013 Auto SD4 Freelander 2 and occasionally not that often when I’m traffic I sometimes get a slight jerk/ jump you don’t see it just feel it slightly in the pedal when going from complete stand still to movement.

Never happens when the car is moving just occasionally when at standstill in traffic.

Any ideas please, any help will be much appreciated Thankyou
 
Thankyou it’s on 150k miles and I don’t think it’s ever had one will get it done, do they use normal fluid ? thx
 
BazFleck said:
Thankyou it’s on 150k miles and I don’t think it’s ever had one will get it done, do they use normal fluid ? thx
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It's well overdue then. LR say it's filled for life, 10 years or 150k, however the gearbox manufacturer says 50k fluid changes. In my experience, not changing the fluid massively shortens the gearbox life.
The fluid specification is in the owners handbook.
Seasoned FL2 owners do a partial change every 50k miles, which seems to keep issues at bay.

If the box fluid hasn't been changed, then it's likely that none of the other fluids have been done. It's best to do the lot, or issues can only arise.
 
BazFleck said:
Hi

Hope someone can help I have 2013 Auto SD4 Freelander 2 and occasionally not that often when I’m traffic I sometimes get a slight jerk/ jump you don’t see it just feel it slightly in the pedal when going from complete stand still to movement.

Never happens when the car is moving just occasionally when at standstill in traffic.

Any ideas please, any help will be much appreciated Thankyou
Click to expand...
I also have the same issue gearbox shifts fine until warm and long journeys, if you sit in traffic go to pull away it will clunk very harshly.
I have carried out a full autobox flush and it shifts great on short journeys no problems but I still get the clunk when warm. There is another post by captain field mouse and apparently software updates have solved the issue.
This is my next step before the dreaded valve bock or box swap.
Oil change is easy drain the box
Fill 3litres clean oil
Drop the cooler return line and fit a hose into a measured container (I used an old 5l oil can with the clear indicator)
Run engine until 3L drained.
Refill with 3L clean oil.
Repeat until clean.
You need at least 12L of oil.
Run to temp halfway with the car level this is about 60 degrees for the autobox oil. Remove the small level plug inside the drain plug.
Don't forget new o rings for the cooler and drain plugs.
This guide was from the smart folk at FL2 owners.
 

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A full auto flush it referred to as the 'gibbon method' after a pister who first tried it on another forum. Fink it were non lr. Was many years ago.

This clunk... are you sitting stationary on tick over in Drive, with yer foot on the brake, then releasing the brake, then it clunks?
 
Hippo said:
A full auto flush it referred to as the 'gibbon method' after a pister who first tried it on another forum. Fink it were non lr. Was many years ago.

This clunk... are you sitting stationary on tick over in Drive, with yer foot on the brake, then releasing the brake, then it clunks?
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Thas correct Hippo, drive selected foot on the brake and it clunk's on release. Only happens when its warm.
 
RDC2013free2 said:
Thas correct Hippo, drive selected foot on the brake and it clunk's on release. Only happens when its warm.
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How long do you sit in drive with yer foot on the brake? I tend to take it out of drive if i'm going to be stationary longer than 10 seconds, unless i can see i'm close to moving again.
 
Hippo said:
How long do you sit in drive with yer foot on the brake? I tend to take it out of drive if i'm going to be stationary longer than 10 seconds, unless i can see i'm close to moving again.
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Yeah that's what I have been doing as a work around as it only plays up over 10 seconds above stationary idle foot on the brake.
 
RDC2013free2 said:
Yeah that's what I have been doing as a work around as it only plays up over 10 seconds above stationary idle foot on the brake.
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The reason i ask is because the later auto's have a low coast option where it lowers the drive pressure when yer in drive and stationary with foot on break, to reduce stress in the auto. My diagnostic shows it happening after about 3 seconds. Done to reduce heat build up in the auto when stationary. It would put the pressure back when needing to drive again.

I have come across some owners who were too quick to go from drive/reverse, into neutral, after stopping. Literally as soon as it went from slowing to stationary, they shifted the lever to neutral. Sometimes with a bang. When going back to drive or reverse it would clunk/bang again, if it did it going into neuteal before. Solved by pausing for a second or two, once stopped, before moving to neutral. Freelanders as well as non freelanders. I always give my auto a moment stationary before i moving the lever. If i don't i can sometimes get it to bang. Nowt wrong with my auto. Just something I have noticed.
 
Hippo said:
The reason i ask is because the later auto's have a low coast option where it lowers the drive pressure when yer in drive and stationary with foot on break, to reduce stress in the auto. My diagnostic shows it happening after about 3 seconds. Done to reduce heat build up in the auto when stationary. It would put the pressure back when needing to drive again.

I have come across some owners who were too quick to go from drive/reverse, into neutral, after stopping. Literally as soon as it went from slowing to stationary, they shifted the lever to neutral. Sometimes with a bang. When going back to drive or reverse it would clunk/bang again, if it did it going into neuteal before. Solved by pausing for a second or two, once stopped, before moving to neutral. Freelanders as well as non freelanders. I always give my auto a moment stationary before i moving the lever. If i don't i can sometimes get it to bang. Nowt wrong with my auto. Just something I have noticed.
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Thanks Hippo, that makes sense it does feel like a slight delay going back into drive after releasing the brakes.
 
An auto with a torque converter can sit in drive without harm. Actually it's suggested that less clutch wear takes place if its left in drive, rather than keep having the clutch pack to re-engage every time you want to pull away.
 
Nodge68 said:
An auto with a torque converter can sit in drive without harm. Actually it's suggested that less clutch wear takes place if its left in drive, rather than keep having the clutch pack to re-engage every time you want to pull away.
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Problem is it can build up heat in the auto. Thats the reason why later FL2 auto's had an option added where the fluid pressure drops after a few seconds stationary when in drive.
 
Just a quick update as I think I may have solved the clunking issue.
When I brought the car in April all the brakes and discs had been changed so as you would expect all was fine with the brakes. I my way back home last week there was metal to metal grinding on the rear RH side. When I stripped it down the sliding pistons caliper to carrier were seized. I have now rebuild the rear calipers with new pistons and seals as I'm too tight to by new calipers. Note the electric parkbake needed to be wound back, i used the ssd diagnostic tool on an old laptop(ebay special) while I had the brakes in bits I dropped on two new genuine front calipers for a steal and swapped them out. Full brake fluid flush and bleed and its a new motor and worked fine today. This is only one day so I'm not counting my chickens just yet.
 

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Yet another thread i have read which reminds me to do an Auto gearbox oil change, along with the Diff, PTU, engine oil, and power steering fluid some i have done already so slowly catchy monkey.
 
Arctic2 said:
Yet another thread i have read which reminds me to do an Auto gearbox oil change, along with the Diff, PTU, engine oil, and power steering fluid some i have done already so slowly catchy monkey.
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I replaced all the PAS hoses and reservior on my FL2 about a month ago and the high pressure o ring blew. That will teach me using ebay non genuine. Bodged it back up with two new o rings as the seal groove would fit 2 o rings. If it goes again it's being swapped out for some genuine hoses.
I wanted to rebuild the PTU as its now on 170k with no history
 

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