200tdi Timing belt

Just thought i would get a bit of advice from the know how before i start!

I have a Disco 200tdi in my garden ready to be put in my Defender!

I thought it would be a good idea to put a new timing belt on while it is still on the pallet!

Does anyone have a guide on how to do this please? Never done one before but how hard can it be???

Cheers for any help!!

Scott

good idea

200TDI cambelt change - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

yup - a good place to look would be Landyzone. or :googleit:

good luck undoin the crank pulley bolt whilst its on the pallet

oil dripper said:

good luck undoin the crank pulley bolt whilst its on the pallet

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piece of **** my 1/2" drive air impact wrench would make light work of it

and while yer at it

intermediate gasket - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

and put a new clutch/release bearing/release arm in

The Mad Hat Man said:

yup - a good place to look would be Landyzone. or :googleit:

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pictures don't work in that one

Sean said:

good idea

200TDI cambelt change - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

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ere Sean - why are yu promotting other Fora when our own super brill Accy has done a writeup? :bolt:

raise:

yu mean the boss has deleted his own piccies?

shame .

G-man said:

piece of **** my 1/2" drive air impact wrench would make light work of it

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yea like si,s did

The Mad Hat Man said:

ere Sean - why are yu promotting other Fora when our own super brill Accy has done a writeup? :bolt:

raise:

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see me previous post !

Thanks for the fast response guys, Its a great help cheers!

Scott

Fun getting it off.....even more fun tightening the bastid back up

Once iv removed the old belt how easy is it to loose track of where the new one should line back up?

Is it just a case of marking where the old belt lined up and copying it?

Also is there a way of measuring how tight the belt should be with the tensioner with out any special tools?

scott02464 said:

Once iv removed the old belt how easy is it to loose track of where the new one should line back up?

Is it just a case of marking where the old belt lined up and copying it?

Also is there a way of measuring how tight the belt should be with the tensioner with out any special tools?

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read some of those links and all will become clear

Thats what i have done mate and i goes on setting up the fuel pump timing with a drill bit.

Why would i have to do this when i change the belt?

Excuse my novice status ha ha!!

tis to stop everything moving out of alignment

Cheers sean thats made sense of it!

For some reason i always make it sound so complicated in me head!

what are your thoughts on getting the crank pully off? In the posts it mentions 'jamming' a wrench against the chassis and briefly turning the starter!

The engine i have is still on the pallet so thats not really an option...

People tend to see a timing belt swap as a really critical and complex job. It really isn't. Although the belt is obviously a very important component of the engine, you aren't going to need any special tools or a torque wrench in order to get the tension right on your new belt.

The basic principal is to turn the engine over by hand (big socket and wrench on the crank shaft so that the timing marks line up). Then mark the current pulley positions opposite the timing marks with tipex. So put a blob on the timing case at the back and a blob on the pulley so that you then have two marks to lien up with as opposed to the single timing marks that are already on the pulley and timing case.

Rotate the crank shaft pulley with the old belt still fitted, until the hole on the injection pump pulley lines up with a hole in the back of the timing case. Then you need to stick something through the whole to lock the injection pump pulley in place or at least hold it roughly in the same position. Without that, it will spin freely and you'll loose your injection pump timing.

When you slacken off the tensioner, keep your eye on the cam shaft pulley because it'll rotate quite freely in one direction or the other. The crank shaft pulley will not rotate so freely.

Whip the old belt off, slide the new one on, start at the crank shaft pulley and then bring the belt up the right hand side so that it is tight and straight, and then pull it over the cam shaft pulley, making sure the teeth are properly aligned with the associated grooves. Then bring the belt over to the left and around the injection pump pulley. Check again that there is no slack on the belt in between the pulleys. Then fit your tensioner and remove any slack with that. I just tightened mine up so that the belt was bloody tight. You should be able to push it in ever so slightly if you push it with your finger - no more than a few mm though.

Whack the case back on, all done! Turn it over by hand though before you start it properly, just to check that there isn't anything clashing together. If there is, you're a tooth or two out or your cam shaft rotated all the way around in one direction!

-pos

scott02464 said:

Cheers sean thats made sense of it!

For some reason i always make it sound so complicated in me head!

what are your thoughts on getting the crank pully off? In the posts it mentions 'jamming' a wrench against the chassis and briefly turning the starter!

The engine i have is still on the pallet so thats not really an option...

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just make sure it's tied tight to the pallet and put a scaffold bar over the wrench (to make it a lot lot longer) - then bodge a battery up so you can flick it over

but your probably just as well leaving the belt till the engine is in