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200tdi ran with no oil

Discussion in '200 TDi' started by robal, Oct 30, 2018.

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  1. ozzyboydeano

    ozzyboydeano Well-Known Member

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    normally when an engine runs out of oil for a period of time the bottom end is removed first not the lid (head) for inspection of damage

    spun or damaged big end bearing / main bearing as well as thrust washer damage ?

    hopefully your specialist does some measurements of his own before installing new bearing shells
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2018
  2. Blackburn

    Blackburn Well-Known Member

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    Are the bronze bits the cam shaft bearings , thrust washers are copper coated one side if I recall but would not think that thickness.
    Edit late thought cam followers are brass!
     
  3. robal

    robal Member

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    Hi chaps,

    so having taken the engine in, they have reground the crank and also the bores so i'm looking forward to getting it back this week and slinging it back in the truck. I'll keep you updated with whats what!
     
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  4. robal

    robal Member

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    Ok. So how hard is it to set the timing belt. The chaps at the garage are offering to a) give me the block back with pistons in b) block back with timing cover on and belt set....

    Thw difference is a 180 pound. I reckon it cant be that hard. What do you think??
     
  5. Disco1BFG

    Disco1BFG Well-Known Member

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    The cynic in me might suspect they are nervous of something, and are covering their behinds ... :rolleyes:

    It is NOT difficult at all to fit the timing belt.... But don't take my word for it ... have a nosy here:-

    http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/belt.htm
     
  6. robal

    robal Member

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    I took it to them with the timing cover on as i couldnt get the pully off and might think im a bit of a mug (to be fair i am)

    thanks for that. I've always found glencoyne pretty handy! Do you think i need to replace the seal in the bell housing?? It went on only a few thousand miles ago most. plus, the head and head gasket didnt blow, do i need to get that re skimmed or not?
     
  7. Disco1BFG

    Disco1BFG Well-Known Member

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    I think I'd replace the seal due the lack of oil situation. Crank pulley tool is only about 30 odd £.....

    If you're confident in the head, then pressure testing would be my choice .... I'd only skim the head if you have to ... can only be done so many times and 200 heads are no longer made .... which means a second hand replacement with unknown provenance ..

    Unless you really want originality, or you are too far in financially, I'd maybe consider replacing the whole engine - cheaper and quicker... a shame, but life deals some rubbish cards at times :(
     
  8. robal

    robal Member

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    right, so the head is back and all ok and the block is on the stand and all the new parts are laid out......
    I have 2 questions though!

    1) the chaps who ground the crank etc supplied me with all the bearings for the bottom end, they are all larger sizes than the original apart from the thrust washers, these are standard which sort of makes sense but i don't have a dail test indicator, can i just use feeler gauges to measure the end float??? do i have to??
    2) tightening the head back on - i have used the sealey/clarke torque dial angle measures before, they are really crap and i've never been confident with them. does anyone know anywhere to rent a digital gauge or a good quality angle dial?
     
  9. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    you can feel it when it comes to end float or use feelers ,there has to be some,but a few extra thou wont hurt
    for the 60 degrees mark a bolt flat corner and the head and turn it one flat for the 20 degrees guess a 3rd of a flat mark the top of each bolt as you go and on each sequence
     
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