200tdi cut out and will not restart

@dag019 if you remove the rocker gear from the head then turn the engine with the starter motor and you find the engine turns hard and evenly, (even compression with no "chuffing" from exhaust or inlet manifolds) then that would indicate the valve timing was out due to the "shock shearing" of the camshaft sprocket key.
If "chuffing" persists with rockers removed you will have a bent valve or more to deal with.
Turning the engine over with no rocker gear means you will have two cylinders compressing every half a revolution of the crank so don't work the starter like this for too long, just long enough to detect if a valve or two is leaking past. After seeing you photo of 8 bent pushrods I imagine that the cam key had a bit of stress applied.
Good luck.

dag019 said:

What do you mean the cam key? Are you suggesting the cam timing cog has slipped on the shaft? I will check that in the morning.
I will also check the valves and redo the timing again as see if that makes a differance. I agree is sounds like a valve is positively open which is what lead me to think the timing was still out.

Click to expand...

No 6

Kwakerman said:

No 6

Click to expand...

Thank you. Do you know the torque for the bolt for refitting. Can’t find it from a quick google everything refernaces the crank bolt rather than the cam.

No 6 (took a while to get the piccy to load)

dag019 said:

Thank you. Do you know the torque for the bolt for refitting. Can’t find it from a quick google everything refernaces the crank bolt rather than the cam.

Click to expand...

For the 300 its 80Nm, so I would imagine the 200 would be something similar

Kwakerman said:

For the 300 its 80Nm, so I would imagine the 200 would be something similar

Click to expand...

Which bolt is that?

Cheers

dag019 said:

Thank you. Do you know the torque for the bolt for refitting. Can’t find it from a quick google everything refernaces the crank bolt rather than the cam.

Click to expand...

40-50mn

neilly said:

Which bolt is that?

Cheers

Click to expand...

300 camshaft sprocket centre bolt although JM said 40-50 for the 200

Gazbo said:

@dag019 if you remove the rocker gear from the head then turn the engine with the starter motor and you find the engine turns hard and evenly, (even compression with no "chuffing" from exhaust or inlet manifolds) then that would indicate the valve timing was out due to the "shock shearing" of the camshaft sprocket key.
If "chuffing" persists with rockers removed you will have a bent valve or more to deal with.
Turning the engine over with no rocker gear means you will have two cylinders compressing every half a revolution of the crank so don't work the starter like this for too long, just long enough to detect if a valve or two is leaking past. After seeing you photo of 8 bent pushrods I imagine that the cam key had a bit of stress applied.
Good luck.

Click to expand...

Did this and I still get chuffing (same as previous video) out the intake manifold so I am assuming I will need to take the head off to investigate. It does not appear to be a bent valve as all of the valves are level when a straight edge is applied. I am guessing once the head is removed it should be more obvious what the problem is?

Thank you @jamesmartin for the cam sprocket torque, I will still check the keyway when I get a chance.

As I now know that the intake valves are leaking do I need to purchase a compression tester and carry out a test before pulling the head or should it be nice and obvious what the problem is once it is removed?

dag019 said:

Did this and I still get chuffing (same as previous video) out the intake manifold so I am assuming I will need to take the head off to investigate. It does not appear to be a bent valve as all of the valves are level when a straight edge is applied. I am guessing once the head is removed it should be more obvious what the problem is?

Thank you @jamesmartin for the cam sprocket torque, I will still check the keyway when I get a chance.

As I now know that the intake valves are leaking do I need to purchase a compression tester and carry out a test before pulling the head or should it be nice and obvious what the problem is once it is removed?

Click to expand...

id just pull head off and take plenty of pics and drain the block before by removing the brass drain on the lhs of block

jamesmartin said:

id just pull head off and take plenty of pics and drain the block before by removing the brass drain on the lhs of block

Click to expand...

Not taken the head off before. What do you mean by drain the block? What am I draining, I will see if I can find the brass drain when it is light tomorrow. And hopefully get the head off in the evening.

the block of coolant so it doesnt leek into bores when head bolts are slackened

jamesmartin said:

the block of coolant so it doesnt leek into bores when head bolts are slackened

Click to expand...

Right that makes sense. Will have a look for the drain plug. Is it very obvious?

Before you pull the head off, have you as yet made the time to confirm if the cam sprocket is still in time with the camshaft?
Remove the retaining bolt and check if the woodruff key is still in line with the keyways.

dag019 said:

Right that makes sense. Will have a look for the drain plug. Is it very obvious?

Click to expand...

Drain plug for coolant is LHS toward front of engine block sort of behind/below alternator. Valve heads do not have to be bent much to leak enough to stop your diesel starting.

jamesmartin said:

View attachment 163824

Click to expand...

Cheers. I know where that is and have seen it before. Did not know that is what is was though.

ifloochies said:

Before you pull the head off, have you as yet made the time to confirm if the cam sprocket is still in time with the camshaft?
Remove the retaining bolt and check if the woodruff key is still in line with the keyways.

Click to expand...

I haven’t done that yet. I will do it tomorrow as well as removing the head. I have checked the the valves are the problem by removing the rocker shaft and “starting” the engine and still get “chuffing” out of the intake manifold despite all valves being closed.

I've never had any luck getting that drain plug out on 3 engines I've reconned. It's never been much of a biggy though.

Flossie said:

I've never had any luck getting that drain plug out on 3 engines I've reconned. It's never been much of a biggy though.

Click to expand...

One of the write ups I have read on how to do it didn't mention the drain plug and just removed the lower hose form the water pump. I will try the drain plug but it is good to know if it doesn't come out it is not the end of the world.

I am not going to remove the exhaust manifold I am just going to unbolt it and move it out of the way, I know this is possible because I have replaced the manifold gasket recently without removing it.

Do I need to remove the glow plugs and injectors? It looks like some do and some don't. I will need to buy the required tools first if I need to remove the injectors.

Finally, is it worth rebuilding (after checking the cam sprocket, and assuming it is fine) the timing belt/cover/front end, before removing the head. This way I have less to risk going missing and there is no connection between the two jobs?