2002 P38 brake plumbing

Mornin' all.
I'm replumbing the rear brakes. The unions on the brake booster are far right, looking at it, on the face, one above the other. RAVE simply gives a schematic hydraulic diagram with rearLH and rearRH noted.
PLEASE ! as many comments as you like..I've already asked matron....can someone tell me which is which? I've forgotten.
Trust me, you'll all get like this.

regards

Peter

RAVE says 22 RH rear. There's a massive 22 cast into the brake booster. Could that be a clue? I'll be sat nodding and dribbling in the window. If you see me, take pity and say hi.
Regards all

supapete said:

RAVE says 22 RH rear. There's a massive 22 cast into the brake booster. Could that be a clue? I'll be sat nodding and dribbling in the window. If you see me, take pity and say hi.
Regards all

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Yes, numbers should be on booster and also on white labels on the old pipes.

21 LHR 22 RHR 23 LHF 24 RHF

Hi

myfirstl322 said:

Hi

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de hi.

Ho de ho..

I got away quite lightly there. I've seen the day on here where I'd have suffered a salvo of abuse from hell for what was a waste of hard drive space. Thanks for the good natured response, all. Time for my meds, porridge and bed bath before being wheeled out for therapy.......Lying beneath a p38. Regards all.

supapete said:

I got away quite lightly there. I've seen the day on here where I'd have suffered a salvo of abuse from hell for what was a waste of hard drive space. Thanks for the good natured response, all. Time for my meds, porridge and bed bath before being wheeled out for therapy.......Lying beneath a p38. Regards all.

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Had a look at mine last night while I was absent-mindedly drilling away at a bolt. Looks like the lines go behind the air-tank and that looks pretty much rusted in place. Did you have to take the air-tank out?

Nope. There's a clip block about a hand and finger's length above it, reaching from the back end. I could just about snap the clips once the new pipes had straightened. Threading was worse in my mind's eye
than in practice. I started from the back with a stop end and tape over the pipe end. The absolute nightmare of rot was between the chassis over the rear wheel arches and around and over the back subframe. I didn't have to cut there, they just broke away. I'm wondering why such a vital component has to have inbuilt obsolescence. There's plenty more things on a P38 to choose from. Bolt drilling is an option here for therapy sessions, along with basket weaving, lampshade making and painting stripes on humbugs. I tend to give it a miss owing to the shakes.

supapete said:

RAVE says 22 RH rear. There's a massive 22 cast into the brake booster. Could that be a clue? I'll be sat nodding and dribbling in the window. If you see me, take pity and say hi.
Regards all

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How can we visit,you haven't put in your location

supapete said:

Nope. There's a clip block about a hand and finger's length above it, reaching from the back end. I could just about snap the clips once the new pipes had straightened. Threading was worse in my mind's eye
than in practice. I started from the back with a stop end and tape over the pipe end. The absolute nightmare of rot was between the chassis over the rear wheel arches and around and over the back subframe. I didn't have to cut there, they just broke away. I'm wondering why such a vital component has to have inbuilt obsolescence. There's plenty more things on a P38 to choose from. Bolt drilling is an option here for therapy sessions, along with basket weaving, lampshade making and painting stripes on humbugs. I tend to give it a miss owing to the shakes.

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Easiest way to replace pipe over to N/S is with tank out. Remove old pipe, make and bend new one same shape then put a joint in the middle. Feed in from either side and connect.

ive just recently done my own, from the bulkhead connections to the back. I also fitted new hoses after the original pipe fittings broke in the hoses on the axle!!! I chose to leave the pipes coming from the master unit as they are in pretty good shape. They had rotted over the crossmember, not a hard job with tank in place.. Just not that easy..

Well, I'm all plumbed up. Well, almost. I've had a devil of a job finding someone with my inner rear hoses in stock. The general concensus is that they're approx 400mm
long. They're actually approx 200mm long on mine. Island might have the right ones but they call them jumper hoses, I guess. I can't accurately identify them from the graphics. At any rate they weren't in stock.
This isn't news to the experienced among you, I'm sure, but to the uninitiated the job could turn out to be a pain. I've plumbed up using the old hoses with all but the new ones to fit into place.
I must say that I went ahead oblivious of the tank out method but found no problem at all following the route of the original pipes. Neither did I elect to connect at the bulhead straight connectors. I didn't like the look of prospective spannerring.I thought an extra couple of feet of copper and easy connections into tappings suited me better.
Visiting hours here are breakfast to supper but my exact whereabouts is still a mystery to me. I think I've had some kind of brain surgery because I can recall someone asking me
when I had my labotomy.That, I think was about the time I bought my P38. I'll ask matron.

supapete said:

Visiting hours here are breakfast to supper but my exact whereabouts is still a mystery to me. I think I've had some kind of brain surgery because I can recall someone asking me
when I had my labotomy.That, I think was about the time I bought my P38. I'll ask matron.

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that sounds realistically scary!!!!