2002 Disco 2 non starter

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So here's the plan:
- when i name a connector as C.... you go to the RAVE - Electrical library - Connector views scroll down and click on it to see the pin disposals, watch it carefully and concetrate to work exactly on what i say otherwise the whole thing can be a mess, corroborate the pin's position with the wire colour to be certain it's the good one.
- first you have to set the multimeter to DC, bridge the perpendicular cavities of R9 as you did when it started, start the engine then put the multimeter's probes across the other(parallel) cavities, you should get close to 12V and it should start to jump all over at a time i think.... or not, anyway remember what you saw
- then remove the bridge, remove the relay's plastic cover and put it back then start the engine, when the relay starts clicking measure across the parallel terminals cos you have access to them, remember what you see
- then you have to pull up the ECU without unplugging it and let it in a position as to be able to startthe engine and to insert the multimeter's negative probe from behind into the black plug (C0658) pin 5 UP(blue/purple) wire, the positive probe to live in the fusebox(FL1)... if you dont have needle probe use other needle as to reach the wire's core and measure on that ... if the result is the same like on the relay's coil then the ECU is most probably fubar, if the voltage on the ECU pin is steady the problem is at the fusebox(bad contact in the related plug C0573 pin 9 /also UP wire or bad contact within the fusebox. remember these measurements are relevant while the relay is clicking and report the results

Good luck
 
sierrafery said:
So here's the plan:
- when i name a connector as C.... you go to the RAVE - Electrical library - Connector views scroll down and click on it to see the pin disposals, watch it carefully and concetrate to work exactly on what i say otherwise the whole thing can be a mess, corroborate the pin's position with the wire colour to be certain it's the good one.
- first you have to set the multimeter to DC, bridge the perpendicular cavities of R9 as you did when it started, start the engine then put the multimeter's probes across the other(parallel) cavities, you should get close to 12V and it should start to jump all over at a time i think.... or not, anyway remember what you saw
- then remove the bridge, remove the relay's plastic cover and put it back then start the engine, when the relay starts clicking measure across the parallel terminals cos you have access to them, remember what you see
- then you have to pull up the ECU without unplugging it and let it in a position as to be able to startthe engine and to insert the multimeter's negative probe from behind into the black plug (C0658) pin 5 UP(blue/purple) wire, the positive probe to live in the fusebox(FL1)... if you dont have needle probe use other needle as to reach the wire's core and measure on that ... if the result is the same like on the relay's coil then the ECU is most probably fubar, if the voltage on the ECU pin is steady the problem is at the fusebox(bad contact in the related plug C0573 pin 9 /also UP wire or bad contact within the fusebox. remember these measurements are relevant while the relay is clicking and report the results

Good luck
Click to expand...
Thank you Sierrafery. I’m on it today. Thank you so much for your help!
 
Welcome, concentrate on everything i wrote to do exactly as i said and maybe we'll find the culprit. I'll be able to reply only late afternoon or in the evening today.... write down you findings with as much details as possible. Good luck
 
Si Click said:
Great support from SF as always. Love this site.
Click to expand...
Apart from the valuable and detailed technical information given by SF, it never ceases to amaze me how fantastically he communicates in English, which we know is not his first language! Being fluent in a foreign language for communication purposes is not the same as being fluent in a technical situation. I just wonder how many of us would be able to do as brilliantly as he does.:)
He has my heartfelt admiration.:):):)
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
Welcome, concentrate on everything i wrote to do exactly as i said and maybe we'll find the culprit. I'll be able to reply only late afternoon or in the evening today.... write down you findings with as much details as possible. Good luck
Click to expand...
Hi Sierrafery.
Ok been out on the Landy this afternoon. I followed everything you said and got the following results:

I bridged the perpendicular cavities of R9, started the engine then put the multimeter's probes across the other(parallel) cavities - I got a fairly consistent reading of 3.98.

I removed the bridge, removed the relay's plastic cover and put it back in then started the engine. The relay was clicking intermittently. I took a reading from across the parallel terminals which ranged from 3.80 to 4.00.

With the engine running I then inserted the multimeter's negative probe into the back of the black plug (C0658) pin 5 UP(blue/purple) wire, and the positive probe to live in the fusebox(FL1). The reading this time was a consistent and steady 14.68.

I also had a quick look under the fuse box and had a quick clean up under there. The wiring all looked intact and connected.

After putting everything back I have two further observations:

The engine is now running ok with the relay in for about 15-20 minutes before misfiring and dying out. Previously it only run for a few minutes. Not sure why or how but something has changed since yesterday.

The relay clicks with the ignition off, but as soon as I turn the ignition on the clicking stops. The relay doesn’t click now when the engine is running. It only begins clicking again when the engine misfires and dies out.

I’m hoping some of this might help point us in a direction?

Once again, thanks for all your help.

Cheers.
 
Hi mate.
Well done!... you did exactly what was needed to have a result... in a nutshell, the conclusion: the relay coil's command is on earth path from C0658 - 5 as the other side is live so when you measured across that and live you got the correct 14+ voltage at the ECU while at the coil was 3.8 - 4V, from the ECU the circuit is hardwired to C0573-9 at the back of the fusebox then through the fusebox to the relay's coil where you have that low fluctuating voltage... i'm 99% convinced that the problem is within the fusebox hence the relay clicking with ignition off cos that circuit has a resistive short to earth in there which creates the voltage drop with engine running and a leak to earth with ignition off as the other side of the coil is permannent live... if you want to be 100% you have to unplug C0573 and make sure there's no corrosion and if it's OK plug it back and be handy to let the fusebox undone somehow and insert the negative probe into C0573-9 or use a wire to splice in it and chek then... if you get that 14+V like at the ECU plug it means the wiring is OK and this command doesnt reach the relay's coil so a known good fusebox is needed... there are fuseboxes available on ebay or at the wreckers and not expensive , e.g https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Discovery-2-Fuse-Box-Cover-Engine-Bay-YQE000300-Land-Rover-1998-to-2004/183767889676?_trkparms=aid=1110001&algo=SPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=60096&meid=4e0f10bebb8e4aa288e63d38ff9ccbd7&pid=100008&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=172890397894&itm=183767889676&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219
 
derwendolly said:
Apart from the valuable and detailed technical information given by SF, it never ceases to amaze me how fantastically he communicates in English, which we know is not his first language! Being fluent in a foreign language for communication purposes is not the same as being fluent in a technical situation. I just wonder how many of us would be able to do as brilliantly as he does.:)
He has my heartfelt admiration.:):):)
Click to expand...
Totally agree. I don't even understand some of this stuff in English which is my first language, and when I discuss technical stuff in French, even after 34 years, I still have to look stuff up, e.g. discussing a dodgy swimming pool pump, what is an "impellor" in French, "une roue à aubes" it turns out, which literally translated means "wheel with dawns". Now how do you work that one out?
So @sierrafery you are a genius and it bothers me not one bit every time you correct me and my faulty knowledge. I am learning, you are teaching.
 
I spent some time in Afghanistan trying to rebuild the Afghan Air Force. Teaching pilots was fairly straightforward, they were well educated and if they did not speak it already they learnt English quickly. Engineering officers the same. The problem was that the Afghan Army who selected people for the Air Force posts, considered actual mechanics to have a status somewhere below trench digger. They sent us the least educated people they could find. We first had to teach them to be literate and numerate in their own language, then teach them English, then teach them to be aerospace engineers. The manuals could not be translated into Dari because it is an ancient and non-technical language. I was told that it has one word for "that which rotates" covering wheels, nuts, bolts, rotor blades....
It says a great deal for the commitment and determination of the Afghans we taught that most were able to master English and qualify to work on aircraft in only a few years. In 9 months I managed to learn only a few phrases in Dari.
 
Si Click said:
I spent some time in Afghanistan trying to rebuild the Afghan Air Force. Teaching pilots was fairly straightforward, they were well educated and if they did not speak it already they learnt English quickly. Engineering officers the same. The problem was that the Afghan Army who selected people for the Air Force posts, considered actual mechanics to have a status somewhere below trench digger. They sent us the least educated people they could find. We first had to teach them to be literate and numerate in their own language, then teach them English, then teach them to be aerospace engineers. The manuals could not be translated into Dari because it is an ancient and non-technical language. I was told that it has one word for "that which rotates" covering wheels, nuts, bolts, rotor blades....
It says a great deal for the commitment and determination of the Afghans we taught that most were able to master English and qualify to work on aircraft in only a few years. In 9 months I managed to learn only a few phrases in Dari.
Click to expand...
WOW!
Respect!
And this from a Languages Teacher(retd)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
WOW!
Respect!
And this from a Languages Teacher(retd)
Click to expand...
Don't misunderstand me, I personally was not teaching. My title was Deputy Commander NATO Air Training Command (Afghanistan) and my role was XO for the programme from active ops through to recruiting Mi 8 rotary instructors from Eastern European coalition partners. There were similar training organisations for the Afghan Army and Police and in each case basic training included literacy. In my opinion of all the effort that went into the reconstruction of Afghanistan the most beneficial to the people was making 10s of 1000s or ordinary Afghans literate and numerate in their own language. I'm not in the photo BTW it was taken the month before I arrived.
12556_497428376968284_1943033018_n.jpg
 
Guys, i feel honoured for your kind thoughts about my knowledge and english but i'm sorry to say that this thread went way off topic while it was very concentrated on a strange issue.... though as the OP seems to be vanished then no probs
 
Not much consolation, but if he's gone quiet, chances are he's fixed it. Or something more important has comeup, or he's awaiting parts.
Whatever, I'm sure he'll get back on if the issues continue.
 
sierrafery said:
Guys, i feel honoured for your kind thoughts about my knowledge and english but i'm sorry to say that this thread went way off topic while it was very concentrated on a strange issue.... though as the OP seems to be vanished then no probs
Click to expand...
Hi Sierrafery. No, not vanished. Nothing quite so exotic. I work in aircraft maintenance and had an urgent one on Sunday night and had to rush for the airport. Just back this evening.
Thanks so much for your highly detailed response on Sunday. I’m just trying to digest in now!
 
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