2001 TD4 Freelander Tailgate problem (Urgent)

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Philbee

Philbee

Member
Posts
46
Location
Torbay Devon UK
Hi Guys this is my first post, and I am in need of an urgent solution if possible?
Having returned from a 250 mile journey home, I find I can't open the car tailgate. Window goes fully up and down on the Key, and also the dash switch.
When trying to open tailgate door by outside latch, the window glass drops approx. 5 - 10mm just enough to clear the rubber gasket and you can hear the first clunk but, the second clunk doesn't happen allowing the door to open. The glass doesn't drop the normal approx. 50 mm as usual?
If I hold the latch up, after the fist clunk there is a variable pitch sound like something is straining the circuit?
I have dropped the back seats in an effort to get to remove the inside plastic panel but there are no fixings visible to allow removal to get at the door workings and electrical circuits.
All doors lock and unlock on Fob /Key except the Boot, and rear wiper works ok.
Have looed at a few threads on this subject on the site, but none cover this Landy model year, or inside boot panel removal ( or non that I have managed to find?).

Any help re ideas / solution would be very gratefully received, or even how I remove the plastic panel fixed to the tailgate without being able to open the back door would be a help?
Thanks for any replies.
 
I believe the plastic trim can be removed with the door shut - but it is a difficult job and not a situation you want to be in! Have a search in the forum, you might find and answer.

With regard to the door not opening, this is usually due to the micro switch in the door failing - however, as the glass is shifting, that's not the problem in your case. I do get confused as to all the sensors in the latch mechanism and window winder - and how they all interact. They are all picked up on by the CCU (computer jobbie). It will detect the door switch has been pressed, wind the window down some and when its got far enough energise the door release mechanism. I presume its not seeing the window lower far enough (for what ever reason) so therefore not energising the door release.

When the door switch fails, you can 'jump' the wires in the cabin - which sets the process of opening the back door off. So I would have thought you could do the same with the door release. You would just need to know which wires.

Someone may come along and give you a definitive answer to your problem, but for some reading, you could check in the Rave workshop manual exactly how the door opens and maybe find which wires to jump. There's info on how to download it here...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/

You need a Windows PC to load it on.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I believe the plastic trim can be removed with the door shut - but it is a difficult job and not a situation you want to be in! Have a search in the forum, you might find and answer.

With regard to the door not opening, this is usually due to the micro switch in the door failing - however, as the glass is shifting, that's not the problem in your case. I do get confused as to all the sensors in the latch mechanism and window winder - and how they all interact. They are all picked up on by the CCU (computer jobbie). It will detect the door switch has been pressed, wind the window down some and when its got far enough energise the door release mechanism. I presume its not seeing the window lower far enough (for what ever reason) so therefore not energising the door release.

When the door switch fails, you can 'jump' the wires in the cabin - which sets the process of opening the back door off. So I would have thought you could do the same with the door release. You would just need to know which wires.

Someone may come along and give you a definitive answer to your problem, but for some reading, you could check in the Rave workshop manual exactly how the door opens and maybe find which wires to jump. There's info on how to download it here...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/

You need a Windows PC to load it on.
Click to expand...


Hi Grumpy , I'm afraid your link doesn't work? been on the site but nothing downloads to disc?
 
I just tried the MyRangeRover link on that page and it works.

The ones to MyDocz probably won't work at the mo cos I had to replace my router last week and the new one's playing silly buggers.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I just tried the MyRangeRover link on that page and it works.

The ones to MyDocz probably won't work at the mo cos I had to replace my router last week and the new one's playing silly buggers.
Click to expand...
Got onto MyRangeRover tried to download RAV 1 freelander 2001 onwards, stuff that is downloaded are items of 1kb each no text ?
 
It is an ISO image file of over 600mb - I just clicked it and it set off downloading the whole thing.

You then have to open the ISO file on a Windows PC using an ISO viewer - I use "Virtual CloneDrive" - this 'mounts' the ISO as a new drive letter (eg E:). You can then see the contents as if it were a disk drive, memory stick or CD. You may find some versions of Windows will open it without the need for additional software, but I doubt it.

Another thing you can do with ISO files is use CD burner (or DVD burner maybe) to burn the image to a CD. The files will then be visible on the CD when you load it, but can still only be run on a Windows PC.
 
If you remove the RH boot side trim, then you can access the wiring for the tail door.
If you apply + 12 Volts to the purple/blue, this will drive the door lock actuator. Don't keep +12 applied for long, but just long enough to see if the door latch releases.

Also while the trim is off, make sure the grounding point is corrosion free, as everything in the gounds at that point.
 
Nodge68 said:
If you remove the RH boot side trim, then you can access the wiring for the tail kdoor.
If you apply + 12 Volts to the purple/blue, this will drive the door lock actuator. Don't keep +12 applied for long, but just long enough to see if the door latch releases.

Also while the trim is off, make sure the grounding point is corrosion free, as everything in the gounds at that point.
Click to expand...

Hi Nodge, thanks for that.
Just one question, is RH side, Drivers or Passenger side? Save me taking wrong side off. I assume closing side of tailgate making it the passenger side?
 
Philbee said:
Hi Nodge, thanks for that.
Just one question, is RH side, Drivers or Passenger side?
Click to expand...

RH side when looking forward while sitting in the drivers seat.;)

Using the turms passenger or driver's side isn't helpful as those can vary, depending on there the vehicle is.;)
 
Nodge68 said:
RH side when looking forward while sitting in the drivers seat.;)

Using the turms passenger or driver's side isn't helpful as those can vary, depending on there the vehicle is.;)
Click to expand...

HI Nodge
I did actually did check if you were UK or USA based and as you were UK your drivers side would be on the right side of the car. The query was down to whether you were facing forwards looking through the windscreen or looking back into the rear of the car and the boot.

I still have not been able to access the boot, and the tailgate is still locked.

If I disconnect the battery as others have suggested in an effort to unlock everything through lack of12v supply power to the locking mechanism, will that in anyway cause problems with the ignition and other security functions / immobiliser / key pad when I re connect it? At the moment I can still get into the car and drive it and would hate to loose that ability just by disconnecting the battery?
I know once you disconnect and re connect the battery you have to re program the key fob to use the tailgate, but does it effect anything else like immobilisation and ignition?
I find it hard to believe there is no easy way to open the tailgate once its locked, without having to cut the inner covering panel off with a disc cutter which is looking more likely by the day

Thanks for everybody's continued help
 
Philbee said:
The query was down to whether you were facing forwards looking through the windscreen or looking back into the rear of the car and the boot.
Click to expand...
Right hand side, is to your right, while sat in the drivers seat. It's also known as the off side here in the UK.;)
Philbee said:
If I disconnect the battery as others have suggested in an effort to unlock everything through lack of12v supply power to the locking mechanism,
Click to expand...
No. The rear door will remain locked. But the window will drive fully down as it needs resetting.

Nothing else will be affected, except for the radio will need a code entering.
Sometimes the fob will need it's lock button pressed a few times, but that's not always the case.
 
Hi Guys
Further to my probs with the Tailgate and lock Thanks to the search facility and different peoples help here, and Videos on the internet, I have now managed to sort the problem out. It seems the latch clip inside the lacking mechanism came detached from the actuator solenoid because of the large hole in the solenoid and the small gauge of the clip. after a small alteration I managed to put it all back together and at the moment everything works as it should.
My biggest problem was getting the inside door card off with the tailgate closed.
.
Just like to thank everybody that gave me info as to how to proceed, and just like to say what a great find this web site is and people in it. Cheers Philip
 
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