2 inch lift on Defender 110

First of all hi to all! I am a newbie on this site and i am hoping that you will be able to help me out. I have a 1996 Defender 110 and have just fitted it out with OME shocks and springs giving around a 2inch lift. Also fitted the castor correction bushes. However since the lift i seem to have a wining noise somewhere in the driveline which comes in at around 45mph but only seems to be under load. Any suggestions as to the cause would be much appreciated.

Thanks Si

:bounce: thatll be the missus moaning about how much it cost

I'd hazard a guess that your front prop UJs are binding a little.
Try removing it and see if the problem disappears, if it does, fit a wide yoke prop.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/thinking-lifting-your-landy-read-first-66840.html

You are not wrong especially as it is now likely to cost more

dont take one persons misfortune with a lift that they all do ive had no probs with mine and i know shed loads of pepes that have no probs..infact i know more people who own allsorts of landys that have no probs than i know people who have probs,

wiltshire landyman said:

dont take one persons misfortune with a lift that they all do ive had no probs with mine and i know shed loads of pepes that have no probs..infact i know more people who own allsorts of landys that have no probs than i know people who have probs,

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I wish i was one of the people that had no problems. I also know people that have not had a problem! Typical landy all different!

Treworgey 90 said:

I'd hazard a guess that your front prop UJs are binding a little.
Try removing it and see if the problem disappears, if it does, fit a wide yoke prop.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/thinking-lifting-your-landy-read-first-66840.html

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So just remove the front prop and drive on rear wheel drive only?

Landysi said:

So just remove the front prop and drive on rear wheel drive only?

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Yup.
That'll tell yer whether it's yer front prop that's the problem.
You'll need to engage diff lock of course....

Treworgey 90 said:

Yup.
That'll tell yer whether it's yer front prop that's the problem.
You'll need to engage diff lock of course....

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Thanks I will give that a try and see what happens.

Advise regarding the prop shaft is correct, but you have exagerated the problem with the castor correcting bushes.

IME there is often little need for castor correction with a 2 inch lift.

i run a 4" lift without any correction and its not to bad,i dont get any prop judda.av got the correction arms but ant got round to fittin em!

tre did you only fit the wide yoke to the front prop? is the rear one ok?

just curious as i changed the 1st UJ on mine the other week. front nearest the T-box.

Griffdowg said:

tre did you only fit the wide yoke to the front prop? is the rear one ok?

just curious as i changed the 1st UJ on mine the other week. front nearest the T-box.

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I had to fit both.
I'm wondering if he might be OK with his rear one though, because it's longer on a 110, therefore the 2" lift gives it a shallower angle.

andyb66 said:

Advise regarding the prop shaft is correct, but you have exagerated the problem with the castor correcting bushes.

IME there is often little need for castor correction with a 2 inch lift.

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Hi! I wouls have thought that fitting the castor correction bushes would have helped. How come it would make it worse?

Treworgey 90 said:

I had to fit both.
I'm wondering if he might be OK with his rear one though, because it's longer on a 110, therefore the 2" lift gives it a shallower angle.

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Hi tre hope you are right but knowing my luck it will be both! I will try removing the front prop tomorrow. Where do i get a wide yoke prop from? Any idea on cost?

Landysi said:

Hi! I wouls have thought that fitting the castor correction bushes would have helped. How come it would make it worse?

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Lifting the suspension, without correcting the castor, results in the axle itself being rotated, such that the diff nose points upwards slightly (by about 3 degrees for a 2" lift). Correcting the castor helps with bump-steer and steering self-centering, but puts the diff nose back parallel with the ground so that the propshaft ends up at a sharper angle.

Landysi said:

Hi tre hope you are right but knowing my luck it will be both! I will try removing the front prop tomorrow. Where do i get a wide yoke prop from? Any idea on cost?

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I got mine from my local Landy Independent dealer for about 90 quid. Made by Bearmach I think.
They're sometimes for sale on flea-bay too.

Treworgey 90 said:

Lifting the suspension, without correcting the castor, results in the axle itself being rotated, such that the diff nose points upwards slightly (by about 3 degrees for a 2" lift). Correcting the castor helps with bump-steer and steering self-centering, but puts the diff nose back parallel with the ground so that the propshaft ends up at a sharper angle.

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Unless yu use castor corrected swivels, which allow the diff to remain rotated, but corrects the steering.

Treworgey 90 said:

I got mine from my local Landy Independent dealer for about 90 quid. Made by Bearmach I think.
They're sometimes for sale on flea-bay too.

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Any advantage to using a double cardon prop as apposed to wide yoke prop?

Landysi said:

Any advantage to using a double cardon prop as apposed to wide yoke prop?

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Not that I know of.
They are a lot more expensive and are only needed with extreme lifts as far as I know.
Wide-yoke props cured my whining / vibration problems.