2.5TD Timing Problems!

The keyway aint just not accurate, its not right! There are wee dots stamped into the pulley - hang on ill try to get a picture.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/uploads/1178844101/med_gallery_2_301_1425449.jpg

Thats the wrong pulley, but there will be a dot like that on the crank pulley.

The guide that came from was for a 200 TDi, so if you read it it says line the woodruffkey up. However, the earlier engines need the dot lining up, ive done cambelts on 3 of these engines now, and they all started first turn of the key!

curses my link dnt work, hang on

Image taken from lr4x4.

Thanks Boydy, I'll go and have a look!

Hi Boydy,

You are right the crank pulley does have a dot on it. I missed this as originally started to time up with the crank pulley removed. I have fitted the belt and all seams to work (no banging valves). I have tried to start but not been successful yet. (need to purge the diesel through the system after the head removal).

the only reference made to the alignment of the crank in the haynes is for the 300tdi which states it should be lined up with the key ways. You were right this is where i went wrong.

try using specs for the right enjun in futre saves a lot of hard work or just ASK on here, you will get **** takes but the info will come eventally

Chunky Engineer said:

(need to purge the diesel through the system after the head removal)

Click to expand...

Don't do that, its the diesel you want in there!

Sorry should have said need to purge the air from the injector lines!

Motor still not started, I will try to night (battery needs charge). Any thoughts on how to help improve the starting. (seen threads talking about advancing the injector timing helps startup).

Motor always started before i cooked it. although only after 20 sec of glows and several cranks.

DONT touch the throttle pedal, there is a cold start mechinizm in the injector pump, POS did some info on it somewhere.

Don't want to insult you, but I will just go through everything then you can see if you have forgotten something.

First thing to do is make sure the cam is in the position that it won't be operating the lift pump. In your case I would take the output pipe of the lift pump off and pump it until you get a fair quantity of diesel coming out of it.

If at this stage you cannot get any diesel, then try turning the engine over on the key with the pipe off the pump, can you get diesel now? If so then the arm on the pump has been cut through by the lobe it sits on inside the pump (the cheapy ones do this anyway because its thin metal on edge)

Then connect the pipe back up, now loosen the top banjo bolt on your filter assembly and pump the lift pump, it will hiss and bubble a little diesel then the flow should become more steady and bubble free. Once you have achived this tighten the bolt back up.

Now turn your ignition on and make sure the fuel soleniod is opening, loosen the little (8mm I think) bleed screw a couple on top of the injection pump, it sits inbetween the idle speed/return pipe and the main throttle mechanism.

Now pump the lift pump again, you should get bubbles and then steady diesel from this once its fully bled.

Keep doing this until you have maybe had 4/5 cycles on the lift pump come out the bleeder bubble free.

On the last cycle of the pump tighten the bleed bolt up.

Now crack off all the injector pipe unions at the injectors.

Turn the engine over for about 10 seconds, check the injector pipe unions, each one should have shown signs of diesel squirting out - a run of diesel below each is a good sign here!

Now tighten all the unions back up, jump in the cab, glow the engine for 7-10seconds, and turn the key... It should start almost instantly.

If not, I would have a look at my glow plugs.Mine is starting at the moment (with ice on the windows) with 10secs glow no problem, and on about 1sec of crank.

Also, as I told POS many moons ago, and he is doing a mighty fine job of passing on the word, use NO throttle, and make sure your a throttle cable is not pulling on the throttle (too tight or the pedal is not returning properly.) even when your not touching it.

Thanks discomania, not insulted at all!

I have diesel at the injectors, glow plugs seem okay, will double check when testing compression (i'm conserned that the engine is not turning over evenly).

Are you getting any white vapour from the exhaust?

Have you re-set the valve clearances?

Hi Disco and boydy,

Not noticed white smoke, valve clearences have been reset. I am trying to run with no rad or waterpump (wanted to confirm engine okay before fitting remaining parts) on thing i did notice was white smoke coming from the hole in the cylinder head that the thermostat would normally sit in.

holy smoke! compression testers for diesels are expensive. any ideas where to get a good price on one?

Screwfix do one for under £20.

Look in the automotive section, it says Petrols but a friend bought one for his Landy and does the job.

Hmm i would be careful using a petrol one to get reliable readings. Talk to your local garage, and ask to borrow theirs, if you are friendly with them!

Smokoe coming out of the water jacket, with the engine not running, is almost certainly head gasket/head/block failure! Possibly caused by the re-use of the old gasket.

Hi Disco and Boydy,

I read petrol compression testers are not strong enough as diesels run higher pressure?

Sorry should have said the white smoke appears after cranking (Condensation or more sinistor issue?). New gasket was used. (thought i might have to take off the head to check cam, was wondering if i could reuse the gasket that was just put on as the engine had not fired/ warmed up - hence the thread asking about reuse).

you won't need to check the cam. Take off the rocker cover, turn over the engine with the stop solenoid disconnected, do all the rockers move smoothly?

How much white smoke appears? Is it steam? The temperature does rise pretty quick in the cylinders, so after a bit of cranking it could be expected to steam a bit.

The gaskets rely on being squashed to seal - if you re-use it, especially being a diesel it will probably fail. Having said that, theres no need currently to remove the head.

You say it sounds as though its not cranking smoothly - how good is your battery? Is it cranking fast enough?

If you need to know if you have some compression then for £16.99 this will do you. The guage in Screwfix goes up to 300psi, if you max it out on each cylinder then at least you know you have at least 300psi which would probably indicate that there is no major leak, valves open at the wrong times etc... but by the sounds of things you do have a leak. If there was condesation in there, what would push it out? It sounds more like diesel vapour getting pushed out at the cylinder head, I think your going to have to take the head off again - did you torque it down properly?

The temperate does rise pretty quickly, but without any ignition of diesel its not got hot enough! So there is not enough heat to heat up the cylinder walls significantly enough to start causing steam on the other side of the cylinder wall in the water gallery. If it could create 80 odd degrees through the wall after a bit of cranking then on the motorway we would be in big trouble!

I think its most likely he has diesel vapour escaping through a gap in the head.

As an experiment, take the glow plugs all out, put a squirt of engine oil into each cylinder, put all the plugs back in and try start it as normal. Report back what it does.