2.5 DSE Accelerator not responding no more

Awesome, thanks guys. I was going to send it off to the auto-electrician today, but, I think I'll try repair those connections first. Cleaning the pins seemed pointless without an effective way to clean the sockets.

I had a look at the fuse box in the engine bay last week, and found one connector on the underside had corrosion, the Violet connector highhighted below.
Is it poossible to dismantle the fuse box for further inspection?
Are there fuses in some of these relays?

The others looked fine.



I cleaned very pin with a file and contact cleaner but of course that doesnt help with the socket side of the connector, at all.

I also checked all the grounds around the battery / fusebox area.

I will do the work on the footwell wiring tonight and see whats what.

I found these errors in the BECM

There is on here somewhere a thread on taking the fuse box apart I seam to recall by biketeacherdave, I am on phone so can not find it atm.

If you are OK with a soldering iron, the fuse box can be split. No fuses in the relays but some have suppression diodes.

Heres the fuse box thread by biketeacherdave

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fuse-box-strip-down-and-repair.275056/

This is a good start.

You maybe better sorting the wiring problems before you start playing with the fuse box. I have already told you that the TPS is directly coupled to the ECU you need to be tracing and checking that wiring first.

Okay so I cut away the footwell connectors last night and soldered them with heat shrink filled with glue. Was very optimistic but whan all was said and done, nothing at all had changed, so became very disheartened.

This morning (Thanks for the link @Marshall8hp ) I cracked open the fuse box from my spares car, and, it looks pretty good, I don't see any damage at all, so I may fit this one into my good car.









I bought some pipe cleaners, so I'm going to clean the large circular connector underneath the fuse box in the engine bay.

ned_ said:

Okay so I cut away the footwell connectors last night and soldered them with heat shrink filled with glue. Was very optimistic but whan all was said and done, nothing at all had changed, so became very disheartened.

This morning (Thanks for the link @Marshall8hp ) I cracked open the fuse box from my spares car, and, it looks pretty good, I don't see any damage at all, so I may fit this one into my good car.

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I bought some pipe cleaners, so I'm going to clean the large circular connector underneath the fuse box in the engine bay.

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You are not taking a blind bit of notice are you? Ok carry on i won't bother you again.

ned_ said:

Okay so I cut away the footwell connectors last night and soldered them with heat shrink filled with glue. Was very optimistic but whan all was said and done, nothing at all had changed, so became very disheartened.

This morning (Thanks for the link @Marshall8hp ) I cracked open the fuse box from my spares car, and, it looks pretty good, I don't see any damage at all, so I may fit this one into my good car.

View attachment 213055

View attachment 213056

View attachment 213057



I bought some pipe cleaners, so I'm going to clean the large circular connector underneath the fuse box in the engine bay.

Click to expand...

You need to check the part numbers of the 2 fuse boxes match there are different versions.

@wammers apologies, I simply opened it to see was that one is decent condition. I'm running out of things to try.

I was never going to break the solder or try repair it. I have repaired the wiring as far as I can.

Datatek yes, willdo.

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2 things I would like to do but don't know how, are:

I don't trust the circular connector under the fuse box, I would like to check all those wires for continuity, preferably from the BECM.

Check all the relays in the fuse box.


At this point I might just give up and send it off. I have a deep deep fear of being ripped off by mechanics, its happened me before.
So normally will try anything and everything before sending it to one.



But, I don't think I'm going to win this one.

You have other electrical problems no doubt. But as i said earlier your first complaint was the TPS stopped working. The TPS is directly joined to the engine ECU. It is not linked to anything else. Check that first. Do you actually have memory seats? Part of having a Nanocom is knowing how to use it.

Wammers will re-read your posts and do as you suggest this evening when I get off work.

Have had a positive development, at last. I've located a Land Rover mechanic 20 km from me, so I gave him a ring, he is going to take a look at it next Wednesday.

So this gives me time to tap away at it, and if nothing works, at least I have a plan.

ned_ said:

Wammers will re-read your posts and do as you suggest this evening when I get off work.

Have had a positive development, at last. I've located a Land Rover mechanic 20 km from me, so I gave him a ring, he is going to take a look at it next Wednesday.

So this gives me time to tap away at it, and if nothing works, at least I have a plan.

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Just had a quick look and the wiring from TPS to ECU goes through the large round connector below the coolant header tank. Look at wiring diagrams in RAVE for pins and wire colours.

Am tracing it now with a multimeter using my spares car. Will check the same on my good car next. The wires run to pins 7 as far as 11 on this plug.
The same plugs are used on CNC machines.





I'll check those on my good car, and then follow the loom along.

I have verified that there is continuity between the TPS wires in the footwell, and the pins on the engine bay circular connector, on my good car.
I'm glad that they are fine, it would have been difficult to repair.

So I started checking the other side of the connector, as far as the ECU.

The colours remain the same on the other side of the connector, but the brown becomes a black wire.


I next need to find out where the wires that run through pins 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 on the circular connector,
end up on the connector below, cos that thing is not coming apart.

Pin 7 on the round connector goes to ground point E0556D Which is
Pin 8 on the round connector goes to pin 37 on the engine ECU connector (White wire) and is connected to the wiper on the throttle potentiometer
Pin 9 on the round connector goes to pin 33 on the engine ECU connector (Yellow/Grey wire) and I believe is the power feed to the throttle potentiometer.
Pin 10 on the round connector goes to pin 25 on the engine ECU connector (Grey/White wires) and is the throttle pedal position switch, which connects to ground (pin 7) when the throttle pedal position is greater the 9 degrees.
Pin 11 on the round connector goes through a splice and to pin 13 on the engine ECU connector (Possibly Brown/Green wire) and I believe is the sensor ground for the throttle potentiometer.

I hope this helps.
Heave you tried diagnostic communication with the engine ECU again since soldering the wires in the footwell?

Martin thanks! many thanks. I did try yes but its the same, no communication.

Okay so RAVE has always frustrated me, I've tried installing in on several occasions.

I'm watching this video right now but cannot get past installing Adobe Acrobat 4 (which is from 1999)



I'm on a windows 10 laptop, x64

When I try to install the included Adobe Acrobat file, it quits after 3 seconds
When I try to double click the Rave.exe , it quits after 3 seconds

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I do have a PDF of the workshop manual,and in the electrical section, the menu looks like this... it doesn't seem to have the diesel engine harness

Spent an hour looking for diagrams, have to go to work now.

ned_ said:

Spent an hour looking for diagrams, have to go to work now.

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I don't do windows 10 if i can help it, it is crap. Think there maybe a simulation mode you can use. Someone may come along and explain it to you. All you do with a proper RAVE download is select Electrical trouble shooting section and it list all the circuits just select the circuit you need and all the diagrams are there. Diagrams. Connector views, pin outs the whole nine yards.

wammers said:

I don't do windows 10 if i can help it, it is crap. Think there maybe a simulation mode you can use. Someone may come along and explain it to you. All you do with a proper RAVE download is select Electrical trouble shooting section and it list all the circuits just select the circuit you need and all the diagrams are there. Diagrams. Connector views, pin outs the whole nine yards.

Click to expand...

To my surprise, RAVE worked on Win10 without clicking through the Adobe error messages. that I get on XP.
After 2 days getting rid of all the surveillance and other unwanted stuff, Win10 works better than Win7 which is also a surprise.