2.5 DSE Accelerator not responding no more

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ned_

Active Member
Posts
131
Location
Ireland
So I'm after damaging my beautiful car. It's a 2001 year model.

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It was working and now it's not.
Makes me an idiot, read on and I'll tell you why. ...and be kind, I've already called me an idiot, thanks.

I've compiled a timeline.


I've been trying to fix the 'Select Neutral' message on my dash, for ages.

I swapped on a different transfer box motor to see would that help, it didn't

Bought a used working xzy switch, turned out to be from an earlier pre '99 car.

I disassembled and cleaned the xyz switch from my car, there was nothing to clean really, it looked perfect.

Still, the 'Select Neutral' message persists

I ripped apart my spare transfer box motor (I have a spares car) and found some scoring. The solders look unbroken to me (pic at bottom). Unsure whether it's fine.

I cleaned the large connector under the header tank in the engine bay with contact cleaner. I had never used contact cleaner before. I watched some vids on youtube on how to use it, but none mentioned disconnecting the battery ground cable. Gah. My own fault.

So I continued on and cleaned the automatic gearbox connector located under the center console. With a file on the plug side and just contact cleaner on the socket side.

Next cleaned the pins on the front of the BECM, shown below, this is where everything went wrong, I think. I used a wire brush and the damn thing shorted, sparks, badness.

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I undid the battery at this point and continued to the clean pins on the automatic transmission ECU under the passenger seat. It was 9:30 and I was trying to get to the off-licence before it closes at 10.

So I finished up! Lets go to the off-licence. Attached battery and stuck key in ignition, pressed the 'door-open' button to re-sync the fob, and the car starts.

Go to reverse the car, but there is no accelerator, it's not working.

Get in the other car and go drinking for the weekend, revisit car on Monday.
I've tried numerous things since then.

I have a spare working becm, so I removed the power board from that, because I was sure I had damaged it. However, I didn't find any burn marks on the becm from blue.

So I tried that last night and it made no difference, the car will start but the accelerator doesnt work.

I changed out the throttle position sensor under the dash for a known working one, but still nothing.

I re-cleaned the large connector under the coolant header tank. I'm out of things to try now.


Regarding the nanocom:

nanocom cannot communicate with the engine ecu

nanocom cannot read the live dash instruments

nanocom can communicate with the becm, and the hevac, and the EAS ecu's.


Thanks for reading this far, I know it was a long thread. Here are some pics.

Connector in engine bay, socket side
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Connector in engine bay, plug side
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Scoring on transfer box switch
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Contacts in transfer box motor, damage to get it open
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Cleand the xzy switch, was pretty clean anyway
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my breaker car
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Swapped in working power board from another becm
upload_2020-6-12_20-52-13.png


Immobile
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It is I, Bobby. Thank you for the welcome )

No I have two, one that's in ****ing bits but continues to give and give and give, bless its socks.

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Nah I made a stand for it and there it sits. I would lose cruise control on the blue one if I swapped it, I think the 2.5 in stock form, working properly, is actually fast enough, its good in traffic. It's nuts on roundabouts, has taken me by surprise, it moves rapidly and its huge.


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Wammers, Datatek, two faces I wanted to see, appreciate your input and thank you

Valid suggestion regarding the earth wire, will try that after my coffee.
Regarding fuses I went through the drivers seat fuse box and the blade fuses in the engine bay.

When it sparked it blew fuse 17 under the drivers seat. Also said at a later stage that I had an alternator fault on the dash readout. I should mention that this car is in really good condition, doesn't really have any rust anywhere and no corrosion that I've seen.

Will read that PDF Wammers
 
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Wammers, Datatek, two faces I wanted to see, appreciate your input and thank you

Valid suggestion regarding the earth wire, will try that after my coffee.
Regarding fuses I went through the drivers seat fuse box and the blade fuses in the engine bay.

When it sparked it blew fuse 17 under the drivers seat. Also said at a later stage that I had an alternator fault on the dash readout. I should mention that this car is in really good condition, doesn't really have any rust anywhere and no corrosion that I've seen.

Will read that PDF Wammers

If you look and find the area you indicated you will see throttle position sensor connections on C626/C1287 plug. Number 7 on diagram.
 
Yes I'm staring at that section currently

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How are the pins counted, top row left to right , and bottom row left to right again?
 
@tomcat59alan I have a job during the day and work for myself at night, so come the weekend I'm ready for beer. Not today though. Gonna try earthing the engine ecu now.

Then Ill try the engine ecu with the nanocom and see if I can reach it ith the key in the second position.

Then I think I'll run through the fuses again.
 
I have a spare diesel ECU on the red car, I tried it, engine would not start. Put back on the original and it started again.

I notice that there is no glow plug light on the dash anymore, its dissappeared.
 
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I have a spare diesel ECU on the red car, I tried it, engine would not start. Put back on the original and it started again.

I notice that there is no glow plug light on the dash anymore, its dissappeared.
Have a search there is a strip fused linkfor the heater plugs,that may have blown .I think it was @Lucas018 who had the problem.
 
I have a spare diesel ECU on the red car, I tried it, engine would not start. Put back on the original and it started again.

I notice that there is no glow plug light on the dash anymore, its dissappeared.
Security code needs loading into
BECM if you fit a different ECU.
 
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