So I'm after damaging my beautiful car. It's a 2001 year model.
It was working and now it's not.
Makes me an idiot, read on and I'll tell you why. ...and be kind, I've already called me an idiot, thanks.
I've compiled a timeline.
I've been trying to fix the 'Select Neutral' message on my dash, for ages.
I swapped on a different transfer box motor to see would that help, it didn't
Bought a used working xzy switch, turned out to be from an earlier pre '99 car.
I disassembled and cleaned the xyz switch from my car, there was nothing to clean really, it looked perfect.
Still, the 'Select Neutral' message persists
I ripped apart my spare transfer box motor (I have a spares car) and found some scoring. The solders look unbroken to me (pic at bottom). Unsure whether it's fine.
I cleaned the large connector under the header tank in the engine bay with contact cleaner. I had never used contact cleaner before. I watched some vids on youtube on how to use it, but none mentioned disconnecting the battery ground cable. Gah. My own fault.
So I continued on and cleaned the automatic gearbox connector located under the center console. With a file on the plug side and just contact cleaner on the socket side.
Next cleaned the pins on the front of the BECM, shown below, this is where everything went wrong, I think. I used a wire brush and the damn thing shorted, sparks, badness.
I undid the battery at this point and continued to the clean pins on the automatic transmission ECU under the passenger seat. It was 9:30 and I was trying to get to the off-licence before it closes at 10.
So I finished up! Lets go to the off-licence. Attached battery and stuck key in ignition, pressed the 'door-open' button to re-sync the fob, and the car starts.
Go to reverse the car, but there is no accelerator, it's not working.
Get in the other car and go drinking for the weekend, revisit car on Monday.
I've tried numerous things since then.
I have a spare working becm, so I removed the power board from that, because I was sure I had damaged it. However, I didn't find any burn marks on the becm from blue.
So I tried that last night and it made no difference, the car will start but the accelerator doesnt work.
I changed out the throttle position sensor under the dash for a known working one, but still nothing.
I re-cleaned the large connector under the coolant header tank. I'm out of things to try now.
Regarding the nanocom:
nanocom cannot communicate with the engine ecu
nanocom cannot read the live dash instruments
nanocom can communicate with the becm, and the hevac, and the EAS ecu's.
Thanks for reading this far, I know it was a long thread. Here are some pics.
Connector in engine bay, socket side
Connector in engine bay, plug side
Scoring on transfer box switch
Contacts in transfer box motor, damage to get it open
Cleand the xzy switch, was pretty clean anyway
my breaker car
Swapped in working power board from another becm
Immobile
It was working and now it's not.
Makes me an idiot, read on and I'll tell you why. ...and be kind, I've already called me an idiot, thanks.
I've compiled a timeline.
I've been trying to fix the 'Select Neutral' message on my dash, for ages.
I swapped on a different transfer box motor to see would that help, it didn't
Bought a used working xzy switch, turned out to be from an earlier pre '99 car.
I disassembled and cleaned the xyz switch from my car, there was nothing to clean really, it looked perfect.
Still, the 'Select Neutral' message persists
I ripped apart my spare transfer box motor (I have a spares car) and found some scoring. The solders look unbroken to me (pic at bottom). Unsure whether it's fine.
I cleaned the large connector under the header tank in the engine bay with contact cleaner. I had never used contact cleaner before. I watched some vids on youtube on how to use it, but none mentioned disconnecting the battery ground cable. Gah. My own fault.
So I continued on and cleaned the automatic gearbox connector located under the center console. With a file on the plug side and just contact cleaner on the socket side.
Next cleaned the pins on the front of the BECM, shown below, this is where everything went wrong, I think. I used a wire brush and the damn thing shorted, sparks, badness.
I undid the battery at this point and continued to the clean pins on the automatic transmission ECU under the passenger seat. It was 9:30 and I was trying to get to the off-licence before it closes at 10.
So I finished up! Lets go to the off-licence. Attached battery and stuck key in ignition, pressed the 'door-open' button to re-sync the fob, and the car starts.
Go to reverse the car, but there is no accelerator, it's not working.
Get in the other car and go drinking for the weekend, revisit car on Monday.
I've tried numerous things since then.
I have a spare working becm, so I removed the power board from that, because I was sure I had damaged it. However, I didn't find any burn marks on the becm from blue.
So I tried that last night and it made no difference, the car will start but the accelerator doesnt work.
I changed out the throttle position sensor under the dash for a known working one, but still nothing.
I re-cleaned the large connector under the coolant header tank. I'm out of things to try now.
Regarding the nanocom:
nanocom cannot communicate with the engine ecu
nanocom cannot read the live dash instruments
nanocom can communicate with the becm, and the hevac, and the EAS ecu's.
Thanks for reading this far, I know it was a long thread. Here are some pics.
Connector in engine bay, socket side
Connector in engine bay, plug side
Scoring on transfer box switch
Contacts in transfer box motor, damage to get it open
Cleand the xzy switch, was pretty clean anyway
my breaker car
Swapped in working power board from another becm
Immobile
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