P38A 2.5 Diesel - What Head Gasket

RAW111111 said:

So unfortunately the weather today was a little inclement for photography while i was working, but the replacement head is off being tested and prepped for refitting. I've had to order a new injector socket as mine is too thick to fit between the injectors and the head on this engine, so the machinist is removing them for me and i will refit. likewise he's also going to do the removing and refitting of the valves for me as my compressor doesnt have enough reach.

Rich

Click to expand...

What do you mean machinist. What is he doing?

Just pressure testing hopefully, but any repair work necessary if it doesnt hold pressure.

RAW111111 said:

Just pressure testing hopefully, but any repair work necessary if it doesnt hold pressure.

Click to expand...

If it doesn't hold pressure it is scrap, also needs to be heated for pressure test.

wammers said:

If it doesn't hold pressure it is scrap, also needs to be heated for pressure test.

Click to expand...

It'll be done properly, the guy's been building motors for everything from racing bikes to classic trucks for more years than i've been alive, specialising in diesels so i'm sure he knows what he's doing.

RAW111111 said:

It'll be done properly, the guy's been building motors for everything from racing bikes to classic trucks for more years than i've been alive, specialising in diesels so i'm sure he knows what he's doing.

Click to expand...

Ok carry on.

Getting there.


Rich

Got the engine fully assembled yesterday, battery died while bleeding injectors. This morning with a recharged battery I'm getting occasional splutters but no firing, think I'm going to have to pull the fan and inlet manifold and check the injector timing :| I didn't bother with this during the assembly process as I haven't disturbed the lower timing chain, but it ran before and all I've changed is put a cylinder head on that will actually hold compression. I can't think of anything other than timing to check!

Any ideas?

Rich

Ok. Have now checked and adjusted the injection timing. somehow was at about .40mm @ TDC, now set to .92mm @ TDC. Still not starting and battery low again :| Since I only have one battery large enough for the Range Rover this is getting tedious. Considering compression testing while the inlet manifold is off, just a bit scared on what the results might be, and I still can't understand why the bottom end being no worse than before and the top end being fixed it won't run.

Rich

Starting to wonder if I have the cam out by a rotation i.e. injecting at no.1 TDC on exhaust rather than compression? Can anyone tell me how clear the 'dimple' is on the pump sprocket to know whether I have seen it correctly?

Rich

RAW111111 said:

Starting to wonder if I have the cam out by a rotation i.e. injecting at no.1 TDC on exhaust rather than compression? Can anyone tell me how clear the 'dimple' is on the pump sprocket to know whether I have seen it correctly?

Rich

Click to expand...

Engine should have been locked at number 1 firing cam flat before you removed head. If you turned it to clean piston crowns it should have been turned two full revolutions then re locked. It really is best to know what you are doing before you attempt jobs like this.

I know what I'm doing thanks.

Did turn it through twice in order to clean the crowns, and then twice more when inspecting the bores, just the way I always do, however, it's easy to start doubting ones self when things aren't going as you expect. This time around I shan't bother reporting you for that unnecessarily rude and frankly unhelpful comment.

Anyone other than Wammers have anything useful to say I'd love to hear from you all

Rich

RAW111111 said:

I know what I'm doing thanks.

Did turn it through twice in order to clean the crowns, and then twice more when inspecting the bores, just the way I always do, however, it's easy to start doubting ones self when things aren't going as you expect. This time around I shan't bother reporting you for that unnecessarily rude and frankly unhelpful comment.

Anyone other than Wammers have anything useful to say I'd love to hear from you all

Rich

Click to expand...

Sorry but if you have timed it 180 degrees out you obviously don't know what you are doing. That would be a very basic error.

I didn't say that I had did I? I said that I was wondering if I could have. I'm not interested in hearing anything else that isn't at least an attempt to be helpful, lets just agree to disagree.

Rich

RAW111111 said:

I didn't say that I had did I? I said that I was wondering if I could have. I'm not interested in hearing anything else that isn't at least an attempt to be helpful, lets just agree to disagree.

Rich

Click to expand...

It has been done before by people on here. I take it you are trying to warm and cool it it before final 90 degrees. But if you know what you are doing you should be able to sort it without any advice off here. So carry on.

Indeed, I know it's possible to do, I just not sure how I could have done it seeing as I turned the engine through in sets as you describe, and could see what I assumed to be the 'dimple' the manual talks about on the sprocket of the injection pump - kind of looks like a punch mark on the flat between the sprockets?

That's exactly what I am trying to do, that and bleed the coolant system. Then time to take the rocker cover back off to torque the bolts up that last bit once it's cooled and give everything a final spanner check before marking the bolts.

Static timing is set at .92mm with no.1 @ TDC, all the lines are bled, it just splutters every few cylinders and produces lots of fuel vapour/white smoke as if the timing is retarded. I can't work it out, and quite frankly after a day of checking and re checking I'm quite frustrated and looking for any alternative ideas I can get.

Rich

Turn engine clockwise and lock at what you think is TDC number 1 firing. Locked at TDC number 1 cam lobes flat. Remove the cap from the belt tensioner. Remove nut from injection pump. Using a mirror and light ensure keyway for pump drive is uppermost. If it is pump and cam timing is ok. If it is facing down cam timing is 180 degrees out. DO NOT turn engine unless nut is put back on injection pump. Also when trying to lock engine at TDC it is possible to engage one or the other of the timing pips at either side of TDC that would give the impression that the crank is locked. Crank must be locked solid so it cannot be turned in either direction. If cam timing is out turn engine one revolution but stop 30 degrees BTDC. Slacken cam bolt and turn cam shaft until number one cam is upright. Then turn engine to TDC and lock. Turn camshaft and lock lobes flat with tool. Use feelers as required to set cam holding tool. Torque and angle tighten cam bolt.

Seems like the most certain way of checking, absolutely no uncertainty in the keyway. I'm fairly sure it's not wrong but I can't think what else it could be! Cheers.

Rich

RAW111111 said:

Seems like the most certain way of checking, absolutely no uncertainty in the keyway. I'm fairly sure it's not wrong but I can't think what else it could be! Cheers.

Rich

Click to expand...

You could have missed the locking pin hole and snagged the timing pip 20 degrees ATDC. That would put things out. It is important to try and turn engine both ways when lock pin is engaged it should be solid in both directions. That is why when turning engine to engage timing pin you stop 30 degrees short of TDC with number 1 lobe upright, so that the pip 40 degrees BTDC cannot be snagged and the next thing is the locking hole.

So it runs! I'm not goinnto say it's fixed until I've done the last tighten of the head bolts and given it a run but it starts happily and seems to run ok

Seems like the issues was of the battery needing a proper charge so that I could keep cranking longer, seems like the injectors need longer on this than anything I've ever known once the lines are bled!

Will report back with further news once I've been able to do more checking which won't be for a week or so.

Rich

RAW111111 said:

So it runs! I'm not goinnto say it's fixed until I've done the last tighten of the head bolts and given it a run but it starts happily and seems to run ok

Seems like the issues was of the battery needing a proper charge so that I could keep cranking longer, seems like the injectors need longer on this than anything I've ever known once the lines are bled!

Will report back with further news once I've been able to do more checking which won't be for a week or so.

Rich

Click to expand...

Good news well done.