P38 becm/ECU sync
- Thread starter Petecorbs
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Petecorbs
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- 19
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- Algarve, Portugal
No that again was the first one, he came to my house and looked then left saying was going to get his other diagnosis equipment then never came back. We only got this car about a month ago.
Petecorbs
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- 19
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- Algarve, Portugal
He just wasted my time last time and didn't bring right diag tool even though I told him specifically the car, then drove off and didn't come back, never seen him since. Anyone else you can recommend , I dont even mind paying someone for the use of a tool I can use them just dont have one.
Have asked my mate but he hasn't a nanocom...don't know anyone else...good luck in getting it sorted...
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
If the BECM engine ECU have lost sync you will get no dash message and the engine will crank for ever and not start. You need either a Syncmate or a Nanocom to sort it.
Petecorbs
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- Algarve, Portugal
Thanks will keep trying here to find one
Petecorbs
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- 19
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- Algarve, Portugal
So large fuse in the ECU seems to off been blown, i know not ideal but can i temporarily bridge this with fuse wire, im assuming this fuse means no ECU
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Petecorbs
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- 19
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- Algarve, Portugal
So large fuse in ECU housing cooked, can this be bridged temporarily to see if car tries to fire, i assume this fuse blowing means no ECU.
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- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
It means no glow plugs. Nothing to do with ECU.
Petecorbs
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- 19
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- Algarve, Portugal
Thanks Wammers, very strange, bridged fuse with wire she fired first turn, (isnt the fip somehow not engaged if glow plugs not working, im sure i read that somewhere) needs timing doing as running rough, i am assuming bottom end of engine untouched am i right in thinking get cam timed 4.61 left on intake side with engine locked at tdc (1st firing), then dial in the fip to 0.90
Datatek
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They will not start from cold with no glowplugs. Running rough is unlikely to be timing. Timing modulation should be 50%, but they will run reasonably between 6% and 78% from what I have seen. Cam timing is unlikely to be out unless someone has had it apart or the chains and sprockets are about to let go. FIP timing is a different matter and needs special tools. Details are in RAVE which can be found in the tech archive, a Nanocom would help with that too plus you coudl clear any existing faults in the memory.
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
Don't know where you read that but it is not correct. The ECU switches the glows on subject to engine temp, but it cannot if fuse is duff.
Petecorbs
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- 19
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- Algarve, Portugal
Im obvs mistaken not sure why i thought that maybe was thinking of a differnt car altogether, final question lol can timing chains be changed with head on or is it top end strip down again if we decided to change them. I have a rave downloaded now which i will now study but your answers are very helpful.
Datatek
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I believe the chains can be done with the head in situe, never had to do it though. Sprockets would almost certainly need to be changed too if the chains are shot, an expensive job that might not need doing. I know I keep harping on but a Nanocom would give you an idea of the state of the chains by way of the modulation.
Petecorbs
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- 19
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- Algarve, Portugal
Thanks datatek yes now we know she runs plus eas is functioning it's worth investing it appears I would be only person on Algarve with one so could be usefull to others
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- 18,962
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Fuse is 80amp.
I think Wammers said it was possible to do the chains without taking the head off if you drop the sump and just remove the front cover. Lift for FIP is different for new chains.
I think Wammers said it was possible to do the chains without taking the head off if you drop the sump and just remove the front cover. Lift for FIP is different for new chains.
Datatek
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- Near Poitiers SW France
0.95 new chains, 0.90 after 20K kilometers.
@Petecorbs I wouldn't look at chains and sprockets yet, just changed mine, and unless it is a daily driver, it is a long process, RAVE is good at showing you what to do and can be done with head in-situ you need a timing set with locking pins etc. I took head off mine as it was cracked. If you need any help let me know got plenty of help from all on here but I have been through the whole process as a novice.
The sprockets were badly worn on mine and chain stretch was excessive after 180k miles you would expect that. I ended up buying a complete timing replacement kit from Advanced Motor Factors was cheaper than buying chains and sprockets individually.
Let me know if you want to do this I can guide you where I bought the parts.
I will try and find the threads I made, I think everyone on here knew my issues
but were a great help.
The sprockets were badly worn on mine and chain stretch was excessive after 180k miles you would expect that. I ended up buying a complete timing replacement kit from Advanced Motor Factors was cheaper than buying chains and sprockets individually.
Let me know if you want to do this I can guide you where I bought the parts.
I will try and find the threads I made, I think everyone on here knew my issues
but were a great help.
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- 12,129
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- Sud ouest France !
Just had a look on their website, that chain kit is pretty good. I've not seen another complete kit before.@Petecorbs I wouldn't look at chains and sprockets yet, just changed mine, and unless it is a daily driver, it is a long process, RAVE is good at showing you what to do and can be done with head in-situ you need a timing set with locking pins etc. I took head off mine as it was cracked. If you need any help let me know got plenty of help from all on here but I have been through the whole process as a novice.
The sprockets were badly worn on mine and chain stretch was excessive after 180k miles you would expect that. I ended up buying a complete timing replacement kit from Advanced Motor Factors was cheaper than buying chains and sprockets individually.
Let me know if you want to do this I can guide you where I bought the parts.
I will try and find the threads I made, I think everyone on here knew my issues
