2.5 diesel cutting out .

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dooroy

Active Member
Posts
272
Location
Co. Galway , Ireland
A friend has a 98 Range Rover auto with the 2.5 BMW dsl engine with 150K on the clock .
It starts fine but unless well warmed up it will cut out (most times) as soon as you select Dor R - it can be very frustrating trying to get going .
I also notice that with the engine idling if you press the brake the revs drop - thought this unusual ?
Any ideas /suggestions welcome . It appears that the main dlr is the only option for reading faults etc ?
 
The tickover on the diesel is controlled electronicly. The only link to the brake pedal is a switch that disengages the cruise control, which is also electronicly controlled. Think you will have to get fault codes read to see what is going on. What speed does it tick over at, is it difficult to start from cold?
 
Thanks for replies .
Starts OK from cold - idles at about 1000 rpm and drops as it warms up , to about 750/800 rpm.
The drop when brake is pressed could be 150ish - can't see why it happens but it does .
Will put him in touch with Irish Rover .
 
dooroy said:
Thanks for replies .
Starts OK from cold - idles at about 1000 rpm and drops as it warms up , to about 750/800 rpm.
The drop when brake is pressed could be 150ish - can't see why it happens but it does .
Will put him in touch with Irish Rover .
Click to expand...


Idle speed is correct. You do need to get the codes read, but as a long shot, check the battery voltage with the engine idling and then with the brake pressed.
 
The cutin point for alternator taking over from battery is 500 RPM. If rpm drops below that speed when key is not in start position the engine will stop. Does the engine still stall when cold start is functioning Eg at 1000 rpm?
 
Car is left to me at the moment so I went out to check :
a) started easily enough - ran at about 1100 rpm ;
b) after a few mins revs came back to just under 1000 ;
c) press brake and revs go down to about 800 ;
d) when you press brake you can hear like a pump running for about 30/40 secs :
e) release brake and revs come up to almost 1000 ;
f) engine idling very roughly if revs go below 1000 - use throttle to bring revs just
above 1000 and it runs smoothly ;
Reckon it will have to go to main dlr as no one around seems to be able to read that year Range Rover .
Will try what you advised and see how it goes .
Thanks for all replies .
Wammers - engine runs much better at above 1000 rpm but would it be bad for box to engage drive etc with engine running well above idle ? Not too well up on autos .
 
Last edited:
dooroy said:
Car is left to me at the moment so I went out to check :
a) started easily enough - ran at about 1100 rpm ;
b) after a few mins revs came back to just under 1000 ;
c) press brake and revs go down to about 800 ;
d) when you press brake you can hear like a pump running for about 30/40 secs :
e) release brake and revs come up to almost 1000 ;
f) engine idling very roughly if revs go below 1000 - use throttle to bring revs just
above 1000 and it runs smoothly ;
Reckon it will have to go to main dlr as no one around seems to be able to read that year Range Rover .
Will try what you advised and see how it goes .
Thanks for all replies .
Wammers - engine runs much better at above 1000 rpm but would it be bad for box to engage drive etc with engine running well above idle ? Not too well up on autos .
Click to expand...

The brake rev drop thing could be ya brake servo diaphram leaking/holed.
 
dooroy said:
Car is left to me at the moment so I went out to check :
a) started easily enough - ran at about 1100 rpm ;
b) after a few mins revs came back to just under 1000 ;
c) press brake and revs go down to about 800 ;
d) when you press brake you can hear like a pump running for about 30/40 secs :
e) release brake and revs come up to almost 1000 ;
f) engine idling very roughly if revs go below 1000 - use throttle to bring revs just
above 1000 and it runs smoothly ;
Reckon it will have to go to main dlr as no one around seems to be able to read that year Range Rover .
Will try what you advised and see how it goes .
Thanks for all replies .
Wammers - engine runs much better at above 1000 rpm but would it be bad for box to engage drive etc with engine running well above idle ? Not too well up on autos .
Click to expand...

Sounds like you may have more than one problem. Box should engage at 1000 rpm without any problems. Just try blipping throttle before you select drive and see if it still stalls. Think you need codes read first job to be honest, sounds like an EDC problem. Idle dropping when you put brake on sounds like a electrical power problem if engine revs drop when ABS pump comes on. Bit of a strange one to be honest. Irishrover is definatly your best bet over there i think.
 
nan-ber , I'm in Gort . Have a Discovery Td5 myself - and was asked to have a look at the RR . Not a lot of knowledge around re Land Rovers .
Wammer I also noted that pressing the brake pedal just enough to put on the brake lights caused the revs to drop - you have to press a bit harder to get the pump to run .
 
Open for correction on this, but at 150k isn`t the FIP up as suspect? Does the orange engine check light come up when it stalls? On mine (manual) cold and hot starting was never a problem but itwould cut out on the over-run. Reconned pump no more problems. It did seem to happen more in cold weather than hot ,by the by.
 
dooroy said:
nan-ber , I'm in Gort . Have a Discovery Td5 myself - and was asked to have a look at the RR . Not a lot of knowledge around re Land Rovers .
Wammer I also noted that pressing the brake pedal just enough to put on the brake lights caused the revs to drop - you have to press a bit harder to get the pump to run .
Click to expand...

Then would think that it is something to do with the switch that disconnects the cruise control. That is the only connection from brake pedal to ECU. Or the cruise control function in the ECU itself. You will definatly need a code reading session. All throttling functions (idle, engine speed, cruise control) are controlled electronicly, this is looking likely to be a malfunction within the ECU. You could try checking all the connections to sensors, but this brake pedal thing does not point to a sensor for me. Check all the connections to ECU making sure they are clean might help. That is about all you can do without fault codes. It will be interesting to know what the cause is when you get it sorted.
 
If it's electrically related as Wammers says it could be the cruise connection to the ECU. Do the revs drop in the same way if the headlights are switched on? Might be worth checking out the fuse box and connections to the DCU. I'd still like to know the battery voltage with the engine idling.
Another line of thought is the rough idling below 1000rpm. Check the connector to the needle lift injector, could also be **** in the injectors or less likely air.
Still need the fault codes read.
 
He has taken the RR away today for a few days as he needs it .
He says everything works , incl cruise control , at the moment as far as he knows ; it came to me first as it was sitting on the bump stops . Found a way (with internet help) to run compressor and then lift each corner individually - so he is going to use it for the moment that way and convert it to coils .
No other electrical devices - lights , fans etc - caused the revs to drop.
It does be parked up for longish periods so maybe thats causing problems with faulty connections etc .
He hopes to get it read at some stage - eng management light does not come on when it cuts out .
Thanks for all your help - will keep you posted on developments ( if there are any ???)
 
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