2.25 petrol not run for years

Landrover130 · Dec 21, 2019

I bought this 109 4 years ago and never tried to start it till last week. Glass bowl only has 3/8 of an inch of what I would describe as grey sand like mixture,solid in btm. I know it’s previous owners were putting lead replacement liquid in tank, could it be this substance that’s been left after petrol evaporated? Cleaned the stuff out and on charge hopefully to start it tomorrow.

rob1miles · Dec 21, 2019

Take the plugs out and motor it on the starter uil the oil light goes out. Better safe than sorry

Dippypud · Dec 21, 2019

Not got a starting handle ?

Best to turn by hand first to see if it's free ....

Even if you prop it up on blocks, put it in gear and turn a wheel ...

Dippypud · Dec 21, 2019

And when you do go to start on the key, please put some coolant and oil in it ...

Blackburn · Dec 21, 2019

Take the plugs out and drop some oil down the bores to give it a little lubrication before attempting to start.

Landrover130 · Dec 23, 2019

Turned over by hand without plugs, solenoid clicked but nothing else, terminals on it were very rusty so decided to remove it. Bakelite broken around main contacts for some reason so need to replace, removed starter to check brushes that’s ok I’ll replace earth cables whilst I wait for solenoid to arrive.

Landrover130 · Jan 2, 2020

Replaced solenoid and starter turns ok now, no petrol through carb so removed top and put air through jets etc needle not stuck so filled bowl up with fresh petrol and replaced top. Still not starting or even trying, throttle pump spraying petrol ok even tried a bit of petrol down carb. Checked for a spark at plugs and nothing, so checked coil wire to distributor and no spark either, low tension has power through coil so coil must be duff. I’ve added a picture of distributor as I’ve never seen this with condenser on outside, is it correct?.

Colthebrummie · Jan 2, 2020

The gap in the points looks a bit large, well, quite a lot large.

Col

Wildefalcon · Jan 2, 2020

I forget how points work. Does the body of the points need to be insulated from the distributor?

Landrover130 · Jan 2, 2020

Colthebrummie said:
The gap in the points looks a bit large, well, quite a lot large.

Col

Looking at the picture now the gap does look big, but I think it’s the angle I am holding phone at that gives that impression, will check it.

Blackburn · Jan 2, 2020

Check the plate the points are fixed too should be a small wire connecting the plate to earth on the body of distributor.
With ignition on do you have a voltage at the coil +ve with points open.
Check the order of plug leads on distributor , remember the distributor goes anticlock wise from memory check the manual.

kermit_rr · Jan 2, 2020

Landrover130 said:
Looking at the picture now the gap does look big, but I think it’s the angle I am holding phone at that gives that impression, will check it.

Points look burnt to me!

Landrover130 · Jan 2, 2020

Colthebrummie said:
The gap in the points looks a bit large, well, quite a lot large.

Col

You were correct the gap was very large, I’ll admit to not checking previously and blame my 63 year old eyes. Thanks.

Landrover130 · Jan 2, 2020

So after setting points gap and checking for a spark it fired up with a bit of choke. Not sure if I trust the low oil pressure warning light as it went out very quick after only a couple of turns of the starter and took a while before it came back on after switching off ignition and leaving switch in position 1, does that sound right?. I found out it’s a Ducellier distributor are they reliable? I think I will replace points and condenser. Thanks everyone for your input.

kermit_rr · Jan 2, 2020

I've got a ducellier, never had any issue, but non standard when you need to buy a new cap or rotor arm

Blackburn · Jan 2, 2020

Oil pressure sounds ok to me if you only ran it a short while.

Landrover130 · Jan 3, 2020

Update, did not start very easy this morning I had to pump throttle and use full choke and it eventually started.When it started it ran very smoothly I have ordered points and condenser, plugs were a nice sandy colour so have left them alone at the moment. What is best starting procedure re the use of throttle and or choke, I’ve not done anything with a petrol engine for 40 years so new to this. The throttle spindle is leaking petrol, I have a spare carb that is in very good clean condition inside, in fact it’s either been rebuilt or is very new so I think I will fit it, only thing is it is very black inside the body where the choke butterfly is. It has an electrical connection on which I think may be something to do with emissions from what I’ve read does this need connecting?. I found it’s a fuel cut off valve does it need a supply from ignition?.

Landrover130 · Jan 3, 2020

It seems it’s not as simple as just putting a feed to the fuel cut off valve, can I just remove it and fit a plug, or is it not that simple.

kermit_rr · Jan 3, 2020

Which carb is fitted? Could well be gummed up which is why it was hard to start from cold.
Some carbs require the accelerator to be pumped before you attempt starting

Colthebrummie · Jan 3, 2020

I use full choke and a couple of blips on the accelerator before turning the key. If the engine runs smooth, there can't be too much wrong with the carb. With the filter removed from the top of the carb, get an assistant to blip the throttle with the engine off whilst you look down the throat of the carb. You should see a jet of petrol being squibbed in as the throttle is pressed. I have 4 zenith carbs all from series 3s and each of them is different. Don't muck about with the carb unless it is essential.

Col

2.25 petrol not run for years

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