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2.25 diesel loosing power

Discussion in 'Series' started by parchwba, Nov 4, 2014.

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  1. parchwba

    parchwba Active Member

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    Why is my engine loosing power slowly?

    I've noticed on the hills I go up regularly every day i'm going slower and having to use lower gears to get up.

    Would the cold weather affect this?

    Starts up alright, sounds ok.
     
  2. parchwba

    parchwba Active Member

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    Something else is happening to my engine.

    There's oil being blown back up through the breather on the top of the engine. Does this mean there's a blocked breather somewhere?

    I think it's a 10j engine.
     
  3. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    means its breathing heavy, most likey because all valves arent fully opening properly ,head gaskets starting to leak or engines worn
     
  4. parchwba

    parchwba Active Member

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    should I check the tappet settings? If so where can I find these settings?
     
  5. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    10 thou for both inlet and exhaust, no9 method
     
  6. parchwba

    parchwba Active Member

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    actually it is very smokey when working hard up hills, so might setting the tappets solve both issues?
     
  7. parchwba

    parchwba Active Member

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    Changed the fuel filter and made no difference.

    Engine getting more lumpy now.

    Sent injectors to be reconditioned, will this help?
     
  8. zeaphod

    zeaphod Well-Known Member

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    It can't hurt, and will likely improve things, as long as there isn't something majorly wrong. Not a lot to go wrong with these engines.
     
  9. Whizzo

    Whizzo New Member

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    Could be a whole bunch of things, most of them simple to fix. I take it you've checked the brakes aren't binding, the handbrake is OK, the tyre pressures are good? These engines are pretty poor at going up hills so it doesn't take much to make them even worse.

    As for checking the engine, the exhaust smoke is very useful. Check this page:

    Exhaust smoke

    I used the exhaust smoke info to diagnose my injection timing on the first attempt and now it's running great.

    First thing I'd do would be to check the valve clearances. It's a simple thing to do and you might uncover other valvetrain problems while you're doing it.

    Camshaft and injector pump timing (and gear) can cause problems too, but inspecting them is tricky so get a couple more opinions before cracking on with this. As well as the normal tools you need a covered space, a dial test gauge and slightly more than the average amount of mechanical know-how.

    Good luck!
     
  10. parchwba

    parchwba Active Member

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    Well got the injectors reconditioned.

    Put them in the weekend. Couldn't find the washers that go on the end of the injector so put the new ones in anyway. Could I have put the new ones over the old ones accidentally? Couldn't find them to take em out of the head. Will this cause a great issue? Have heard of this being done with no ill affect.

    Started it up and it wouldn't tick over smoothly. had to press the accelerator to make it smooth. But then something not quite right. Took it for a spin and it has not allot of power but the tick over got worse. Car shaking all over the place.

    Black smoke coming out the exhaust but not that much really. And only when revved up.

    What shall I do next?? anyone? Please?
     
  11. Turboman

    Turboman Rural Activist

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    Start off by taking them out, finding any steel tip washers that are down the holes, and fitting one steel washer the right way up in each hole. They are important, they prevent hot gas blowing up beside the injector nozzle. If you run like that you may damage the injector, and you may not be able to remove them again.

    Have you changed air filter, and checked all intake hoses internally for collapse or blockage.

    Sometimes there is a little brass strainer in the intake union of the injector pump. Occasionally they can block and cause fuel starvation.
     
  12. parchwba

    parchwba Active Member

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    Thanks for that I'll take another look down the injector hole.

    I couldn't make out if there was one there or not. It was a flat ridge. Not dimpled like the new washers. Tried to poke around down there but nothing came loose. Didn't take much notice of the injectors before they were reconditioned to see if they were on the end of them.

    Will check the other bits you suggested.

    Anyone got some Sun? It's blooming cold out there!
     
  13. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    you can see if an injectors sealing on the washer as nozzle will have a shiny ring around the sooty center ,if it hasnt its not sealing ,washers should be replaced each time you remove injector , they use a flared washer to ensure slight variations of injector length are still clamped tight as washer crushes
     
  14. parchwba

    parchwba Active Member

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    Well it's been a while but have in the limited time I have:

    Checked fuel lines and injectors.
    Checked air filter and tried without filter.
    Checked heater plugs and battery.
    All Ok.

    Will no longer start up.

    Turns over like it wants to go but slowly and unevenly.

    When turning over without air filter on can hear a single air sucking or blowing noise. If I block the air going in, it seems to turn over more quickly and evenly.

    Has a valve gone? or is it a timing problem?
     
  15. zeaphod

    zeaphod Well-Known Member

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    Could be lots of things, but you have the symptoms of a bent push rod. Rocker cover off and check the valve clearances. If one or more are much larger than others, it's likely bent pushrod(s). Easily sorted.
     
  16. trax

    trax . Events Planner

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    you sound a bit inexperienced. if you want to save money and just have it work, then it might be cheaper to take it to a garage than chasing your tail replacing everything.

    if you want to learn on the job, then get stuck in :)
     
  17. parchwba

    parchwba Active Member

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    Well I've done most things on the old chap including stripping the gearbox but as for how to fix an engine you're right, I'm completely inexperienced.

    I'd love to get stuck in but i have the age old problem of time. I have none!

    Could this problem have stemmed from when I drove it into some deep water:
    Please see:
    http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/drink-245005.html
    But the old chap drove for nearly a year after with no problems.

    I'll check the valve clearances and take it from there.

    Thanks folks!
     
  18. trax

    trax . Events Planner

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    if you have stripped the gearbox, then you'll be fiine.. get stuck in :)

    if the valves don't help. then take the head off, you'll probably come across what's going on
     
  19. zeaphod

    zeaphod Well-Known Member

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    Sometimes just over-revving can damage the push rods.
     
  20. parchwba

    parchwba Active Member

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    Checked Tappets and they were fine. However, didn't seem to be much compression on the engine at all.
    Got it started though not on all four cylinders.
    When it was running (with lots of black smoke), I took off the injector pipes one at a time and with injector pipe off cylinder 2, no difference to lumpy running except that the smoke stopped coming out and engine was running clean but on just three cylinders.

    Any ideas? Is this duff valves or duff cylinder?
     
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