defenderfrustration
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Help – Car Overheating, loss of power - 300tdi
Make yourself a brew this is a long story (probably like most Defender stories really!)
Once upon a time…. we had an electrical short which prevented the indicators working, as a result (due to an upcoming long journey), the rear wiper (the cause of the short) was isolated, which also knocked out the temperature gauge (unknowingly).
On the forementioned long journey the head gasket blew (which cracked the head block) – with enough force to blow the bonnet off.
The block was replaced, no obvious damage to the engine – hurrah!
However, after replacing the block the car now makes a knocking noise when driven (possibly diesel knock?) and we have noticed a loss of power.
Apart from the diesel knock, all was running well for short journeys, for a few weeks, then during a short journey the car suddenly lost power steering and steam came out from the bonnet.
Limped ¼ mile home (mainly downhill coasting)
On inspection a cable tie holding the small top coolant hose, that was going to the turbo, had failed and as a result the hose had split, due to the fan belt wheel rubbing against it.
We replaced the hose (see below list of things we have replaced, in order to try and problem solve!)
However, the car started overheating (even on short journeys).
It heats up quickly (into the red) - then the thermostat kicks in, and it cools to about halfway on the temp gauge, it then slowly starts heating up again - until it is in the red.
– all of the below has failed to fix it. – ideas welcome!!!
Replaced the Thermostat
The old thermostat did not work – we tested it in a pan of boiling water – and it completely failed to open – even opening it manually by pushing the center was nearly impossible.
However, even with the new thermostat the bleed value on the top of the thermostat is very hot to the touch when the car has been running for a short period.
All coolant hoses replaced with silicone hoses
We have replaced all the coolant hoses with silicone hoses, the old hoses were very bunged up – and indeed the small hose (bleed value) coming from the top of the radiator to the header tank was complete blocked.
Fuel Boost pin
We have fitted a fuel boost pin (as since the head was changed, we have noticed a decrease in power) – this noticeable increased the power in low gears.
Radiator replaced
We replaced the radiator, which didn’t look like it was leaking, but was a bit rusted and some fins were damaged.
Air Filter cleaned
Dead bird found in the air filter
Intercooler
We have noticed what looks like an oil leak onto the intercooler (Intercooler ordered – but not yet fitted)
Replaced the Water pump
The old water pump actually looked ok, it was moving freely, but we replaced it anyway, just to be on the safe side.
Header tank
The Header tank pressurises – we have noticed a small hissing noise coming from it – although the system doesn’t seem to be losing water. We have a new header tank on order.
Drained the engine block
We removed the bung at the bottom of the engine
Reverse flushed the engine
The water coming out of the bung (as above was clear)
Flushed the heating matrix
We pushed a hose pipe into the heating matrix – the water coming out the other hose was clear – however the blowers do not work. – New heater matrix on order
Make yourself a brew this is a long story (probably like most Defender stories really!)
Once upon a time…. we had an electrical short which prevented the indicators working, as a result (due to an upcoming long journey), the rear wiper (the cause of the short) was isolated, which also knocked out the temperature gauge (unknowingly).
On the forementioned long journey the head gasket blew (which cracked the head block) – with enough force to blow the bonnet off.
The block was replaced, no obvious damage to the engine – hurrah!
However, after replacing the block the car now makes a knocking noise when driven (possibly diesel knock?) and we have noticed a loss of power.
Apart from the diesel knock, all was running well for short journeys, for a few weeks, then during a short journey the car suddenly lost power steering and steam came out from the bonnet.
Limped ¼ mile home (mainly downhill coasting)
On inspection a cable tie holding the small top coolant hose, that was going to the turbo, had failed and as a result the hose had split, due to the fan belt wheel rubbing against it.
We replaced the hose (see below list of things we have replaced, in order to try and problem solve!)
However, the car started overheating (even on short journeys).
It heats up quickly (into the red) - then the thermostat kicks in, and it cools to about halfway on the temp gauge, it then slowly starts heating up again - until it is in the red.
– all of the below has failed to fix it. – ideas welcome!!!
Replaced the Thermostat
The old thermostat did not work – we tested it in a pan of boiling water – and it completely failed to open – even opening it manually by pushing the center was nearly impossible.
However, even with the new thermostat the bleed value on the top of the thermostat is very hot to the touch when the car has been running for a short period.
All coolant hoses replaced with silicone hoses
We have replaced all the coolant hoses with silicone hoses, the old hoses were very bunged up – and indeed the small hose (bleed value) coming from the top of the radiator to the header tank was complete blocked.
Fuel Boost pin
We have fitted a fuel boost pin (as since the head was changed, we have noticed a decrease in power) – this noticeable increased the power in low gears.
Radiator replaced
We replaced the radiator, which didn’t look like it was leaking, but was a bit rusted and some fins were damaged.
Air Filter cleaned
Dead bird found in the air filter
Intercooler
We have noticed what looks like an oil leak onto the intercooler (Intercooler ordered – but not yet fitted)
Replaced the Water pump
The old water pump actually looked ok, it was moving freely, but we replaced it anyway, just to be on the safe side.
Header tank
The Header tank pressurises – we have noticed a small hissing noise coming from it – although the system doesn’t seem to be losing water. We have a new header tank on order.
Drained the engine block
We removed the bung at the bottom of the engine
Reverse flushed the engine
The water coming out of the bung (as above was clear)
Flushed the heating matrix
We pushed a hose pipe into the heating matrix – the water coming out the other hose was clear – however the blowers do not work. – New heater matrix on order
