Brianhw
Member
- Posts
- 22
- Location
- Holywood, Co.Down, Northern Ireland
Haven't made a post for a considerable time so here's something that might just be of interest to those working with their 19J 2.5 Diesel Turbo injection pumps. It may well also apply to n/a 12J, etc engines also.
I had seen this idea mentioned somewhere before a long time ago on some forum or other but it's lost to me now.
Basically it's a simple tool to hold the injector pulley firmly in place enabling the injector pump to be removed (and replaced) without losing the timing or having to remove the belt housing cover, radiator, fan, water pump, etc., which is a hell of a drudgery and a lot of spannering, not to mention having to remake water pump gasket joints, etc., on rebuid.
I decided to make one of these up because I had just changed engines, (from a 'smoker' to an 'appreciably less smoker') and, in spite of everything working perfectly when the engine was trial run on the floor (short video available if anyone should want to see it), Sod's Law dictated that the diesel pump should start leaking as soon as the engine was fitted in place, and I was damned if I could sort it out while still in the vehicle so I decided the easiest thing to do, all things considered, was to remove the pump and work at it on the bench where I could at least see what I was doing !
The fact that I have a small lathe made the making of the tool quite easy for me but for those of you not so well equipped(!), you might know somebody who could make you one up using the pics and dimensions below.
I happened to have a top hat shaped alloy cast piece in my scraps box which with remarkably very little alteration suited admirably, saving me making the whole thing from a piece of solid bar. It was perfect size on the flange diameter and thickness and almost right on the spigot length but undersize on the smaller (spigot) diameter so I press fitted a ring over it and them turned this to 2.135" to fit the hole in the belt housing cover. The step was faced to the same dimension as the depth of the pulley was behing the housing face - in my case .945". A hole was bored right through to a size that would just accommodate a 19mm/3/4 inch socket (1.075"). Either side of this two 8mm clearance holes were drilled on centreline to match the two extractor holes in the pulley at 1.375" centres.
Finally, with the engine set in it's 'timing position' (no.1 exhaust valve fully open and the pin in the flywheel housing engaged in the slot in the flywheel), The tool was bolted to the injector pulley using the same two 8mm X 50mm long allen screws as were used in the extractor, and transfer marked the hole positions of the three 6mm cover plate screws. Then removed the tool and drilled 1/4" clearance holes for these. The other 4 holes you see in the pic were in the scrap piece to begin with and are of no relevance.
Before using the tool, the pully has to be 'cracked' from it's taper on the pump using a conventional extractor in the holes already mentioned. (see pic 5 below for my home made version). This is done with the 19mm pulley nut just backed off a turn so that the keyway cannot become disengaged or the pulley move off centre.
Well, that's all there is to it - to sum up:-
1/ 'Crack' the pulley
2/ Set engine in timing position
3/ Attach tool to pulley using two 8mm X 50mm allen screws
4/ Attach tool to housing using at least two 6mm holding screws
5/ Remove centre nut
6/ Detach pump and job's done !
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[/IMG]
For further information the two pulley attachment holes are 27 degrees to the left of the vertical centre line of the tool
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
Any comments, questions, suggestions, or even criticisms welcomed !
I had seen this idea mentioned somewhere before a long time ago on some forum or other but it's lost to me now.
Basically it's a simple tool to hold the injector pulley firmly in place enabling the injector pump to be removed (and replaced) without losing the timing or having to remove the belt housing cover, radiator, fan, water pump, etc., which is a hell of a drudgery and a lot of spannering, not to mention having to remake water pump gasket joints, etc., on rebuid.
I decided to make one of these up because I had just changed engines, (from a 'smoker' to an 'appreciably less smoker') and, in spite of everything working perfectly when the engine was trial run on the floor (short video available if anyone should want to see it), Sod's Law dictated that the diesel pump should start leaking as soon as the engine was fitted in place, and I was damned if I could sort it out while still in the vehicle so I decided the easiest thing to do, all things considered, was to remove the pump and work at it on the bench where I could at least see what I was doing !
The fact that I have a small lathe made the making of the tool quite easy for me but for those of you not so well equipped(!), you might know somebody who could make you one up using the pics and dimensions below.
I happened to have a top hat shaped alloy cast piece in my scraps box which with remarkably very little alteration suited admirably, saving me making the whole thing from a piece of solid bar. It was perfect size on the flange diameter and thickness and almost right on the spigot length but undersize on the smaller (spigot) diameter so I press fitted a ring over it and them turned this to 2.135" to fit the hole in the belt housing cover. The step was faced to the same dimension as the depth of the pulley was behing the housing face - in my case .945". A hole was bored right through to a size that would just accommodate a 19mm/3/4 inch socket (1.075"). Either side of this two 8mm clearance holes were drilled on centreline to match the two extractor holes in the pulley at 1.375" centres.
Finally, with the engine set in it's 'timing position' (no.1 exhaust valve fully open and the pin in the flywheel housing engaged in the slot in the flywheel), The tool was bolted to the injector pulley using the same two 8mm X 50mm long allen screws as were used in the extractor, and transfer marked the hole positions of the three 6mm cover plate screws. Then removed the tool and drilled 1/4" clearance holes for these. The other 4 holes you see in the pic were in the scrap piece to begin with and are of no relevance.
Before using the tool, the pully has to be 'cracked' from it's taper on the pump using a conventional extractor in the holes already mentioned. (see pic 5 below for my home made version). This is done with the 19mm pulley nut just backed off a turn so that the keyway cannot become disengaged or the pulley move off centre.
Well, that's all there is to it - to sum up:-
1/ 'Crack' the pulley
2/ Set engine in timing position
3/ Attach tool to pulley using two 8mm X 50mm allen screws
4/ Attach tool to housing using at least two 6mm holding screws
5/ Remove centre nut
6/ Detach pump and job's done !
For further information the two pulley attachment holes are 27 degrees to the left of the vertical centre line of the tool
Any comments, questions, suggestions, or even criticisms welcomed !
