1980 88 drive problem

They both looked in good order. I will post a picture today

See if the diff turns?

Don’t I have to remove it for that to be checked?

Try putting the half shafts back in, jack up the rear and try turning the wheels, with the prop removed. Alternatively, you could drain the oil out of the diff and see if it contains any bits of metal.

Col

I done that with the RAC man when it broke down and they were turning in opposite directions? Is this right ? Also the rear prop wouldn’t turn when in neutral ? The front turned lovely but the rear only turned in gear ?

Did you have the handbrake on when attempting to turn rear?

Actually yes it probably was.

I'm struggling with this one. How fast were you going? What exactly happened? What were you doing (as beaking, acclerating, changeing gear, high range etc)? If something brakes internally hard enough to stop the rear wheels its a decent size failure and should make quite a bang.

I was in 4th gear and driving along fine when I felt her slowing so I probably started to touch the brakes but all of a sudden the back wheels locked and I skidded to a halt. I called for recovery where the RAC mechanic un bolted the rear prop and jacked the rear up saying it was the rear diff that had gone. When I got low loaded the driver also said the same as the back wheels were locking and dragging onto the loader so he used skis. When back I removed the rear drives and the rear prop. For some reason the rear prop was not turning by hand otherwise I would have re coupled it to the diff. I’ve now locked in the front free wheels and she’s running on the front drive. I’m none the wiser as I’m new to the Landy mechanics. I’m really not sure if it’s the diff or maybe the transfer box?

Probably the diff as it drives in front wheel drive, definitley worth letting the oil out and looking for chunks, with the back wheels in the air have you tried turning the diff by hand, rather than spinning a wheel?

If it drives on front wheel drive then its unlikely to be the transfer box as the front out put can't run without the rear. It would also rule out the transmission brake as this turns if the front output turns. The diff is ok becuse turning one wheel turns the other the opposite way so the pinions are free. There's not much left: the crownwheel could be jammed or the diff input shaft bearings seized. A prop UJ could jam but I can't see that locking the wheels. If everything tests up OK then is it possible the rear brakes were binding and got hot and locked? The same can happen with the tranmission brake but the engine can usually override it.

I will let the garage know all this on Tuesday. Thanks so much for all the advice and I will let you know what the garage says.

Does it sound a bit like suburban s diff in Nov, that was quite puzzleing but the pics revealed lots of sheared nuts and bolts moving round, this could make it an intermittent fault

And do not drive significant distances in four wheel drive before this is fixed.

Without the rear propshaft fitted the diff can turn the flange so if one side is jammed the motion is sent to the drive flange.

Depending on what type of rear axle is fitted, there may be a removable plate on the diff, if so, drain the oil, take the plate off and look to see if the crown wheel is damaged. If a chunk of metal has broken off something it coul either find its way to the bottom of the diff casing and be out of the way or it it could jam up the works.

Col

Also, the state of the oil should give a clue to the health of the diff.

Col

Cheers again guys. I wil try a few things this weekend and let you know.

I hope it’s not just seized brakes.

Well it’s driving on the front diff and rear wheels are running free. Would this still be the case if the they had sieved or is this an intermittent thing ?