110 Wolf doors, repair, or replace?

Wolf Pack said:

I see what you mean.

£656.51? Then it wants fitting which would be several hours, if not a day's work, I imagine?

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Your best bet is to clean and inspect existing wiring and repair

With my lack of expertise, maybe ask a local auto-sparker to quote me and then it should at least be done properly?

I had a quote in today for swapping out the bulkhead.

He said that LR quote 35 hours, "but he'd discount it to £1800..."

A couple of months ago, someone else said it was "pushing a day's work..." and he was ex-REME, but also likes to charge.

Any thoughts on who to approach?

I could do it myself, but I don't have the lifting kit, or the extra muscle.

Wolf Pack said:

I had a quote in today for swapping out the bulkhead.

He said that LR quote 35 hours, "but he'd discount it to £1800..."

A couple of months ago, someone else said it was "pushing a day's work..." and he was ex-REME, but also likes to charge.

Any thoughts on who to approach?

I could do it myself, but I don't have the lifting kit, or the extra muscle.

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You don't really need any "lifting kit" to change a bulkhead. You might want somebody else to help you lift it out, and the new one in.

The time consuming bit is reconnecting all the wires, cables, etc. that pass through the bulkhead, in the right places, and routed the right way.

But that isn't too bad if you make careful records and take pictures first.

Thanks Turboman, so hard top off (and sold), windscreen off, wings off, side rails off?

I have a manual coming but I'd like to start reading it up now if possible.

Wolf Pack said:

Thanks Turboman, so hard top off (and sold), windscreen off, wings off, side rails off?

I have a manual coming but I'd like to start reading it up now if possible.

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That is about right. Unbolt the stuff, but don't remove the rear tub. Then put the bulkhead in, and attach loosely, then use the doors as a guide to how many spacing washers to use between the the bulkhead and the chassis.
Then replace all the wires, cables, hoses, etc that go through the holes in the bulkhead.

An assistant will be useful, but only really essential for the lift of the bulkhead into place, and the alignment. And they don't have to be skilled, just capable of lifting half a bulkhead.

Lots of pics then and get the auto-electrician in to sort the butchered wiring prior to reassembly?

Wolf Pack said:

Lots of pics then and get the auto-electrician in to sort the butchered wiring prior to reassembly?

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If the wiring is bad, that is probably a good idea. But remember to make a note of any wire colours that have been changed, or your re-assembly pics will be out of date.

Also, be aware that I have never had much to do with military vehicles, but what I have said is accurate for a civilian One Ten. So if there is extra stuff on the military version, one of the military boys should advise later.

That's fine, I really do appreciate any and all advice.

If you ever need M-Series advice, I'm more than OK there, even with the painting-by-numbers wiring.

Wolf Pack said:

That's fine, I really do appreciate any and all advice.

If you ever need M-Series advice, I'm more than OK there, even with the painting-by-numbers wiring.

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Good offer. Afraid I don't know what an M-Series is, but if I ever get one, I will tell you!

Post-War US mil vehicles. They had the belated idea to standardise parts after the Jeep procurement fiasco and M-Series was born many trucks had identical coils, mast cylinders, etc.

Wolf Pack said:

Post-War US mil vehicles. They had the belated idea to standardise parts after the Jeep procurement fiasco and M-Series was born many trucks had identical coils, mast cylinders, etc.

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Interesting. I don't mind the old Willys Jeeps, read a bit about the procurement, they were originally sourced from Willys, Ford, and another company, but it was such a fiasco that Willys ended up supplying all of them.

My experience of military vehicles of any nationality is limited, but I did used to work on my mate's ex-mil Bedford MK at one time, it was much like a Bedford TK, except for 4wd, and it had ether start for cold climates, and a few other extras.
Been in another friend's Leyland Hippo a few times as well, it was quite good, strong, reliable, only issue with it was the fuel consumption was a bit juicy, as it was petrol engined. He only used to use it for rallying, though, so he didn't really care. He bought it incredibly cheap, though, due to the fuel consumption.

Bantam designed the original Jeep and was the only one to hit the spec, but when TACOM asked for 250,000, Bantam said we can do 36 in a month...

Turboman said:

Unbolt the stuff, but don't remove the rear tub. Then put the bulkhead in, and attach loosely, then use the doors as a guide to how many spacing washers to use between the the bulkhead and the chassis.

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34 3/4" is the magical figure needed between the A & B pillars

Thank you.

Off to Brightwells today to collect some booty...

Only a 400 mile drive.

Do you have to remove the roof? I would have thought that you could remove the windscreen frame on its own, then remove the bulkhead.
I'm not saying that you definitely can, but it is worth checking.

v8250 said:

34 3/4" is the magical figure needed between the A & B pillars

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Work off what is actually there. Measurements mean nothing. Use the doors.

Rougharse Racing said:

Do you have to remove the roof? I would have thought that you could remove the windscreen frame on its own, then remove the bulkhead.
I'm not saying that you definitely can, but it is worth checking.

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I think he wants to remove it, presumably to fit a canvas top.

One thing I forgot last night is that he needs to remove the steering column, which also passes through the bulkhead. But once the wings are off, access to the steering box is quite good.

Turboman said:

Work off what is actually there. Measurements mean nothing. Use the doors.

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34 3/4" is the factory set distance between A & B pillars. If doors are of correct size from reputable manufacturer they will be correct size. Any less a set distance and it's very difficult to align doors.

@Wolf Pack , measure your original doors - the new doors should be the same width. If fitting new door seals only buy original grade G door seals - aftermarket seals are crap/too hard and do not seal/shut properly. The grade G seals are 2-3 times more expensive than the cheapo's, but are worth every penny. For more info on bulkhead fitting and door alignment watch Britannica Mike's videos. They're very informative

v8250 said:

34 3/4" is the factory set distance between A & B pillars. If doors are of correct size from reputable manufacturer they will be correct size. Any less a set distance and it's very difficult to align doors.

@Wolf Pack , measure your original doors - the new doors should be the same width. If fitting new door seals only buy original grade G door seals - aftermarket seals are crap/too hard and do not seal/shut properly. The grade G seals are 2-3 times more expensive than the cheapo's, but are worth every penny. For more info on bulkhead fitting and door alignment watch Britannica Mike's videos. They're very informative

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I never measure anything. Doubt if I even have a tape measure.

Measurement only compounds error. You might get away with it on a Land Rover.

But you won't get away with it when you are trying to steam in a 3 inch thick oak plank, with no parallels, no right angles, and no sides the same length, into a curved hull.