110 CSW tub rebuild

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mick 1986

mick 1986

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Has anyone built a rear tub from scratch, off the vehicle?

I’m currently rebuilding my 110 CSW, and in all my haste, stripped the tub. I now have 2 wings, 4 tub support bars, 1 under seat crossmember, a large floor section, and several small bits all painted and ready for assembly.

The only problem I have now is how to hold/support the wings so that I can build the tub back up to the dimensions I took before stripping it?

I made 2 tressels for supporting bits on while I sprayed the panels, and thought about using these, but they aren’t exactly perfect, and nor is the concrete floor. I’m wondering if placing some form of plywood board on the chassis, and building straight onto that is a better option? Any ideas?
 
mick 1986 said:
Has anyone built a rear tub from scratch, off the vehicle?

I’m currently rebuilding my 110 CSW, and in all my haste, stripped the tub. I now have 2 wings, 4 tub support bars, 1 under seat crossmember, a large floor section, and several small bits all painted and ready for assembly.

The only problem I have now is how to hold/support the wings so that I can build the tub back up to the dimensions I took before stripping it?

I made 2 tressels for supporting bits on while I sprayed the panels, and thought about using these, but they aren’t exactly perfect, and nor is the concrete floor. I’m wondering if placing some form of plywood board on the chassis, and building straight onto that is a better option? Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I've rebuilt a 90 tub off the vehicle. Not completely from scratch though. Side panels were still attached to the bulkhead,
IMG_5397.JPG
 
border said:
If you’re missing anything let me know I might have it here
Click to expand...

Much appreciated. I have all the bits, I think. I need to print out the dimensions for the drill holes for the seatbelt anchors, but I have that from @Retroanaconda website already.

My biggest issue is the fact that it’s snowing and I can’t get the tub built and fitted today. I have essentially lost a full day today, but hey ho. It will still be there tomorrow.
 
mick 1986 said:
That’s one of my problems. Mine doesn’t have a bulkhead. I think I should be able to make it work using the tressels. I will be back on here if I get stuck.
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What bits do you have then? Any pictures?
About three and a half inches of snow here this morning, shame it's not more. I just wrapped my rebuild up for the winter as most weekend were way too cold or wet or both.
 
Al2O3 said:
What bits do you have then? Any pictures?
About three and a half inches of snow here this morning, shame it's not more. I just wrapped my rebuild up for the winter as most weekend were way too cold or wet or both.
Click to expand...

We have about 2-3” here this morning, but needs must, so I will over to start on the rebuild in around 25-30mins.

Mine is a 110 CSW, so starting at the rear of the vehicle I have the folded aluminium piece that the rear door sits up against, 4 tub support pieces (galvanised steel), then the rear floor crossmember (also galvanised steel), 3 aluminium top hats that connect all the steel pieces together. 2 wings that are connected by the steel support pieces, aluminium tub floor, then it’s on to the rear seat upstand.

I know how it all goes together, it’s making sure I get it together square, that is my concern.

Tub sides:
upload_2019-2-2_8-32-10.jpeg


Tub floor supports:
upload_2019-2-2_8-32-58.jpeg


I don’t have any photos of the other bits unfortunately. I will hopefully get it built today and take some then.
 
They look good. Have you painted them yourself?
You will need to keep an eye on the correct door width, as well as making them sit square.
I cut two lengths of timber and pulled them together with some cord.
IMG_5508.JPG

I was in the process of riveting in the two new rear quarter panels, in order to get them square, and setting the door width.
 
Al2O3 said:
They look good. Have you painted them yourself?
You will need to keep an eye on the correct door width, as well as making them sit square.
I cut two lengths of timber and pulled them together with some cord.
View attachment 168768
I was in the process of riveting in the two new rear quarter panels, in order to get them square, and setting the door width.
Click to expand...

I have photos of the door gaps I measured before I pulled it apart. It had a 3mm taper from the bottom to the top. I measured it at 919mm wide at the bottom, and 922 at the top. I wondered if it was just flex in the tub sides?

Thanks very much, yes I have painted the whole car myself. I used a gazebo from August to the end of September, painting on a weekend. I done the prep work during the week, after work each day, and painted on weekends. The roof and sills are black, along with all internal floors, and the rest is Keswick Green. I have done everything, apart from the underside of the tub/rear wheel arches as these have old wax oil on still. It will be cleaned up with the steam cleaner and painted with some form of “stone chip”.
 
mick 1986 said:
I have photos of the door gaps I measured before I pulled it apart. It had a 3mm taper from the bottom to the top. I measured it at 919mm wide at the bottom, and 922 at the top. I wondered if it was just flex in the tub sides?

Thanks very much, yes I have painted the whole car myself. I used a gazebo from August to the end of September, painting on a weekend. I done the prep work during the week, after work each day, and painted on weekends. The roof and sills are black, along with all internal floors, and the rest is Keswick Green. I have done everything, apart from the underside of the tub/rear wheel arches as these have old wax oil on still. It will be cleaned up with the steam cleaner and painted with some form of “stone chip”.
Click to expand...
The tub sides are very flexible. I presume that 3mm taper was over the lower tub part of the door and not from top to bottom of the door. The door tapers anyway and that is reflected in the shape of the top side panels. I would try to keep the bottom part of the tub parallel. Those measurements sound familiar, I could have a look through my rebuild thread and see if I can find what I set mine at.
 
Al2O3 said:
The tub sides are very flexible. I presume that 3mm taper was over the lower tub part of the door and not from top to bottom of the door. The door tapers anyway and that is reflected in the shape of the top side panels. I would try to keep the bottom part of the tub parallel. Those measurements sound familiar, I could have a look through my rebuild thread and see if I can find what I set mine at.
Click to expand...

The taper was over the tub side panels, either side of the door. So the “door gap” was 3mm wider at the top than the bottom. I was tempted to measure the door and see what I “think” it should be.
 
mick 1986 said:
The taper was over the tub side panels, either side of the door. So the “door gap” was 3mm wider at the top than the bottom. I was tempted to measure the door and see what I “think” it should be.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but it's governed by the width of the floor panel too. The tolerances aren't crucially tight on Land Rovers! So don't get too hung up about it. :)
 
Al2O3 said:
Yeah, but it's governed by the width of the floor panel too. The tolerances aren't crucially tight on Land Rovers! So don't get too hung up about it. :)
Click to expand...

Well, I cut 2 pieces of wood to 919mm, and fitted them. User some string to tie the two sides tight against it, put the steel rule across the door gap, and 924-925mm wide. I was in a bit of a rush as the light was fading, so didn’t have a close look at why. I double checked the wood, and it’s 919 give or take 1/2mm.

I will get back on it tomorrow and see what is what.
 
Well I have chewed on for the last 2-3 hours and have finally got this far.

upload_2019-2-3_12-19-21.jpeg


The door gap is parallel within 1mm, and is around 919-920mm. The bolt holes for mounting to the chassis are slightly out, around 2-3mm. I suspect it’s the cheap ****e rear light panels from SP4X4, but I may be wrong.

Anyway, I’m off back out to it now. Hopefully it will be all built and fitted by the time I give up this afternoon.
 
Finally fitted it. I am relatively happy with it, apart from the outer 4 bolts that mount the tub to the chassis. They don’t line up with the holes in the SP4x4 panels, they are slightly too high (around 1-2mm) and prevent the bolts going into the threaded nuts. I have scratched the paint in quite a few places, but I will touch them up when it’s finished. I think it will be getting a full external respray in the summer again.

upload_2019-2-3_16-14-19.jpeg
 
mick 1986 said:
Well I have chewed on for the last 2-3 hours and have finally got this far.

View attachment 168893

The door gap is parallel within 1mm, and is around 919-920mm. The bolt holes for mounting to the chassis are slightly out, around 2-3mm. I suspect it’s the cheap ****e rear light panels from SP4X4, but I may be wrong.

Anyway, I’m off back out to it now. Hopefully it will be all built and fitted by the time I give up this afternoon.
Click to expand...
Looking great, Mick. Have you got new rubber pads fitted under the floor cross members?
 
Al2O3 said:
Looking great, Mick. Have you got new rubber pads fitted under the floor cross members?
Click to expand...

Yes I do. I got them from YRM, with all the stainless bolt kits. The problem I have with them is, I have used 3 of the older ones. These have the pads on a different location to the new chassis rails. The two rails either side of the fuel tank are different. The old chassis, the rails slope inwards slightly over the fuel tank.

The new chassis, the rails are directly in line with the chassis rails. So the rubber pads only just touch the chassis. I will remove them and move them along 1” maybe 1.5”.

upload_2019-2-3_21-43-54.jpeg


I’m relatively pleased with how it’s gone so far, but I really wanted the roof to be on by the end of the day. I couldn’t push my wife any more. It was -6deg, without windchill, when we started at 0945 this morning, only just rising above 0deg around lunch time. She was freezing and just shivering as she handed me rivets and bolts. Enough was enough.
 

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mick 1986 said:
Yes I do. I got them from YRM, with all the stainless bolt kits. The problem I have with them is, I have used 3 of the older ones. These have the pads on a different location to the new chassis rails. The two rails either side of the fuel tank are different. The old chassis, the rails slope inwards slightly over the fuel tank.

The new chassis, the rails are directly in line with the chassis rails. So the rubber pads only just touch the chassis. I will remove them and move them along 1” maybe 1.5”.

View attachment 168976

I’m relatively pleased with how it’s gone so far, but I really wanted the roof to be on by the end of the day. I couldn’t push my wife any more. It was -6deg, without windchill, when we started at 0945 this morning, only just rising above 0deg around lunch time. She was freezing and just shivering as she handed me rivets and bolts. Enough was enough.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you've found a good Mrs there, mate. Hold on to that one :) My Mrs is a great help anorl.
Have you not pop riveted the pads in place?
 
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