110 CSW tub rebuild

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Looking through the stripdown photos I have, and thinking about rebuilding this tub. I think I may have missed 2 bolts that bolt the tub to the chassis, either side of the second row seat belt mounts. Does anyone have any ideas?

The bolt holes in question can be seen in this photo. They go through the galvanised floor support and into the two black mounts on the chassis. At least I think that’s where they are supposed to go. If I’m correct, does anyone have a part number for the bolts please?

upload_2019-2-4_19-25-0.jpeg
 
Discodevon said:
Lads I must admit seeing your posts im jealous and want to build myself a landy lol! Are any of you actually mechanics or just hobbyists with massive balls?
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Always had an interest in mechanical engineering and served my time as such. Changed careers when young, but maintained an interest. So, just a hobbyist.

mick 1986 said:
Looking through the stripdown photos I have, and thinking about rebuilding this tub. I think I may have missed 2 bolts that bolt the tub to the chassis, either side of the second row seat belt mounts. Does anyone have any ideas?

The bolt holes in question can be seen in this photo. They go through the galvanised floor support and into the two black mounts on the chassis. At least I think that’s where they are supposed to go. If I’m correct, does anyone have a part number for the bolts please?

View attachment 169025
Click to expand...
Not familiar with the extra bits in the 110 Mick. Compared to the 90 that is. However, is it 5, 6, 7, 8 below?
110 Chassis.jpg
 
Al2O3 said:
Always had an interest in mechanical engineering and served my time as such. Changed careers when young, but maintained an interest. So, just a hobbyist.


Not familiar with the extra bits in the 110 Mick. Compared to the 90 that is. However, is it 5, 6, 7, 8 below?
View attachment 169026
Click to expand...

I don’t think it is. The brackets in that screenshot are what the rear of the C post bolt to, I think. It’s difficult to tell exactly from the photos.

I can remember grinding the heads off the bolts next to the seatbelt mounts, but can’t find the length of the replacements. It’s really annoying as I had made notes on the sizes of most of the other bolts. Just not them ones.
 
mick 1986 said:
I don’t think it is. The brackets in that screenshot are what the rear of the C post bolt to, I think. It’s difficult to tell exactly from the photos.

I can remember grinding the heads off the bolts next to the seatbelt mounts, but can’t find the length of the replacements. It’s really annoying as I had made notes on the sizes of most of the other bolts. Just not them ones.
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I took a huge number of pictures when I did the strip down. There was still many a time I didn't quite have the right angle in a picture to tell what something was like. Very difficult to document everything, especially on a first build.
 
Al2O3 said:
I took a huge number of pictures when I did the strip down. There was still many a time I didn't quite have the right angle in a picture to tell what something was like. Very difficult to document everything, especially on a first build.
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I agree with that. I think my problem is that I don’t have enough pictures of the finer details. I never intended it to be rebuilt to this level when I first started it. It was only intended to be off the road a few weeks and a bulkhead change with minimal chassis welding.
 
mick 1986 said:
I agree with that. I think my problem is that I don’t have enough pictures of the finer details. I never intended it to be rebuilt to this level when I first started it. It was only intended to be off the road a few weeks and a bulkhead change with minimal chassis welding.
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Yep, but once you start you uncover more and more issues and the job grows arms and legs. :(
 
Al2O3 said:
Yep, but once you start you uncover more and more issues and the job grows arms and legs. :(
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I know that feeling. Once I stripped it enough to see the full extent of the chassis corrosion, and realising that the MOT would have been a struggle to pass, then thinking about what happens at the next MOT...it was best to start with a new chassis.

I will get there though. It’s been off the road since April last year. Hopefully it doesn’t stay off the road for a full 12 months.
 
mick 1986 said:
I know that feeling. Once I stripped it enough to see the full extent of the chassis corrosion, and realising that the MOT would have been a struggle to pass, then thinking about what happens at the next MOT...it was best to start with a new chassis.

I will get there though. It’s been off the road since April last year. Hopefully it doesn’t stay off the road for a full 12 months.
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It'll be extremely impressive if you do it in 12 months, especially working outside. Just having the drive to work on, conservatory and small garage space to work in, caused me a few issues. I had thought it might take me a year. Took 2 years and 3 months.

How many of those apparent bolt holes are there? No 20 below says there are 4 of them in the parts list.
110 chassis 2.jpg
 
Al2O3 said:
It'll be extremely impressive if you do it in 12 months, especially working outside. Just having the drive to work on, conservatory and small garage space to work in, caused me a few issues. I had thought it might take me a year. Took 2 years and 3 months.

How many of those apparent bolt holes are there? No 20 below says there are 4 of them in the parts list.
View attachment 169028
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I’m not sure if the mounts are the same for a 110 CSW as any other 110. Item 1 is the crossmember that has the 4 holes in it. From what the internet searches are bringing up, not may people who do these rebuilds replace them bolts. That’s not something I’m too happy about as the tub would only be bolted down with around 10-12 M8 bolts if not.

I’m quite fortunate with space. My parents have a garage and a wood working hut, at the rear of their house, along with quite a large concrete area. Granted the concrete is less than flat, and far from perfect, but it’s a relatively secure place to build and store my bits. I really wanted to be driving to work on this rotation in it, but that’s about to pass. Never mind, it will still be there when I finish the next rotation.
 
mick 1986 said:
I’m not sure if the mounts are the same for a 110 CSW as any other 110. Item 1 is the crossmember that has the 4 holes in it. From what the internet searches are bringing up, not may people who do these rebuilds replace them bolts. That’s not something I’m too happy about as the tub would only be bolted down with around 10-12 M8 bolts if not.

I’m quite fortunate with space. My parents have a garage and a wood working hut, at the rear of their house, along with quite a large concrete area. Granted the concrete is less than flat, and far from perfect, but it’s a relatively secure place to build and store my bits. I really wanted to be driving to work on this rotation in it, but that’s about to pass. Never mind, it will still be there when I finish the next rotation.
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Rotation?

I was surprised by how few fixings there is on the 90 tub. Rear cross member lugs and a few fixings at the centre bulkhead. Sadly, they weren't designed with Euro NCAP tests in mind :eek:
 
Al2O3 said:
Rotation?

I was surprised by how few fixings there is on the 90 tub. Rear cross member lugs and a few fixings at the centre bulkhead. Sadly, they weren't designed with Euro NCAP tests in mind :eek:
Click to expand...

The shifts I’m on, it’s all new to me, are called “rotations”. It’s continentals, so 2 days of 12 hour day shift, then 2 12 hour night shifts, then 4 days off. It’s a very good shift pattern.

I will be seriously shocked if these bolts are not designed to be there. My tub will be bolted down with 2 M8 at either side on the C posts, then 2 M8 at the rear seat upstand, and then 10 M8 on the crossmember.

I have sent an email to a friend to see what they say. I will let you know what I find out.
 
Found this photo online that shows the 4 bolt holes, so at least one person has used them.

The two inside holes are seatbelt mounts, the outer two are chassis mounts.

upload_2019-2-4_21-11-15.jpeg
 
The ones that are seat belt mounts will need the correct grade steel.
I'll go back and have a look through the parts catalogue!
 
mick 1986 said:
I thought so when I read them pages, but the first image is all the bits I have, the second is showing 2 sets of seatbelt bolts, so I don’t know. I wonder if the bolts in the second image, are trying to say that the bolts going through the chassis should also be seatbelt bolts?
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That's what it looks like to me. Those item No 12 'kit seat belt mounting'. Looks like two bolt in from the top and two bolt in from the bottom. Those lines seem to curve over and point to where your 4 holes are.
 
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