101 ambi timing ?

S

Steve Taylor

Guest

• Aug 25, 2004

• #1

This %$^&$* 3.5 litre isn't having any of it. Got fuel, got good
cranking speed, got sparks, got sod all else, apart from occasional odd
popping noises.

Oddly, the plugs seem to be wired in a different sequence to my GS. I
know its daft, but IS there any difference in timing sequence on a LHD
engine compared to a RHD engine ?

Steve

 

M

murphwiz

Guest

• Aug 25, 2004

• #2

"Steve Taylor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This %$^&$* 3.5 litre isn't having any of it. Got fuel, got good
> cranking speed, got sparks, got sod all else, apart from occasional odd
> popping noises.
>
> Oddly, the plugs seem to be wired in a different sequence to my GS. I
> know its daft, but IS there any difference in timing sequence on a LHD
> engine compared to a RHD engine ?
>
> Steve

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 all RV8's...

 

S

Steve Taylor

Guest

• Aug 25, 2004

• #3

murphwiz wrote:

>
> 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 all RV8's...

Which is 1,3,5,7 on the RIGHT hand (viewed from the front of the engine)
with 1 at the front and 2,4,6,8 on the LEFT ?

Just checking.

Compression failure next ?

Steve

 

M

Mother

Guest

• Aug 25, 2004

• #4

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 21:52:27 +0100, Steve Taylor
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Oddly, the plugs seem to be wired in a different sequence to my GS. I
>know its daft, but IS there any difference in timing sequence on a LHD
>engine compared to a RHD engine ?

Erm, the engine doesn't know - or care, if it's in a left or right
hookah ;-)

My guess would be that the dizzie is loose or has moved. Try seeing
if it'll move, if so, move it a bit at a time and see where you get it
to fire up. Then fine tune it.

Do this, obviously, after correctly setting the HT leads to match your
(working) GS


--
Some Land Roveresque (101 biased), links available
from: http://links.solis.co.uk/Geek/X4_Land_Rover/
I also have a little Land Rover site biased toward
my beloved 101 "Grumble", at: http://www.101fc.net


Reading this in 'alt.fan.landrover'? Did you know
there's a group FAQ: http://www.aflfaq.dyndns.info

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Aug 25, 2004

• #5

On or around Wed, 25 Aug 2004 21:52:27 +0100, Steve Taylor
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>This %$^&$* 3.5 litre isn't having any of it. Got fuel, got good
>cranking speed, got sparks, got sod all else, apart from occasional odd
>popping noises.
>
>Oddly, the plugs seem to be wired in a different sequence to my GS. I
>know its daft, but IS there any difference in timing sequence on a LHD
>engine compared to a RHD engine ?

doubt it. has it ever run (with you, I mean)?

check the ignition lead sequence, it's dead easy for it to be wrong, and
results in no go.

check also that it's not correct sequence but timed one "plug" out - I've
had that before and had to move all the leads round one. In fact, the
recommended "home" (#1) position is not the same for all distributors,
either.

so:

place engine at TDC, #1 firing stroke, check that rotor points to #1 lead,
check that other leads are in sequence, as per the book.


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"There is plenty of time to win this game, and to thrash the Spaniards
too" Sir Francis Drake (1540? - 1596) Attr. saying when the Armarda was
sighted, 20th July 1588

 

S

Steve Taylor

Guest

• Aug 25, 2004

• #6

Austin Shackles wrote:

>
> doubt it. has it ever run (with you, I mean)?

No, this is in the vehicle with the utterly ferked wiring - we've rigged
wires to get sparks, starter motor, fuel pump etc. Once we get the
engine running, the whole bloody loom is coming right out.


> so:
>
> place engine at TDC, #1 firing stroke, check that rotor points to #1 lead,
> check that other leads are in sequence, as per the book.
>

What's the simplest way to find that ?

Incidentally, its just struck us that despite the fact we were cranking
the thing for an extended period, the battery didn't die. Can the valves
stick after three years not running ?

I'v never had to bring an engine back from the dead before.

Thanks Austin.

Steve

 

G

GbH

Guest

• Aug 25, 2004

• #7

In news:[email protected],
Steve Taylor <[email protected]> blithered:
> Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>>
>> doubt it. has it ever run (with you, I mean)?
>
> No, this is in the vehicle with the utterly ferked wiring - we've
> rigged wires to get sparks, starter motor, fuel pump etc. Once we get
> the engine running, the whole bloody loom is coming right out.
>
>
>> so:
>>
>> place engine at TDC, #1 firing stroke, check that rotor points to #1
>> lead, check that other leads are in sequence, as per the book.
>>
>
> What's the simplest way to find that ?
>
> Incidentally, its just struck us that despite the fact we were
> cranking the thing for an extended period, the battery didn't die.
> Can the valves stick after three years not running ?
>
> I'v never had to bring an engine back from the dead before.
>
> Thanks Austin.
>
> Steve

You could give it the kiss of life!

--
If Your specification is vague or imprecise, you'll likely get what you
asked for not what you want

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Aug 26, 2004

• #8

On or around Wed, 25 Aug 2004 22:55:15 +0100, Steve Taylor
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>>
>> doubt it. has it ever run (with you, I mean)?
>
>No, this is in the vehicle with the utterly ferked wiring - we've rigged
>wires to get sparks, starter motor, fuel pump etc. Once we get the
>engine running, the whole bloody loom is coming right out.
>
>
>> so:
>>
>> place engine at TDC, #1 firing stroke, check that rotor points to #1 lead,
>> check that other leads are in sequence, as per the book.
>>
>
>What's the simplest way to find that ?
>
>Incidentally, its just struck us that despite the fact we were cranking
>the thing for an extended period, the battery didn't die. Can the valves
> stick after three years not running ?

either lift the odd bank rocker cover so you can look at the valves, or pull
#1 plug and turn the engine slowly until you feel compression with yer thumb
over the hole. poke a longish thin bit of wire down the plughole and
continue to turn it until you get to TDC. You should find that this
corresponds with timing marks on the pulley, assuming you can see them.

back to the compression thing - the valves won't stick but the rings
might've. If you've got a compression tester, you might try a compression
test.


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Ask yourself whether you are happy, and you cease to be so."
John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873)

 

A

Alex

Guest

• Aug 26, 2004

• #9

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 22:55:15 +0100, Steve Taylor
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>>
>> doubt it. has it ever run (with you, I mean)?
>
>No, this is in the vehicle with the utterly ferked wiring - we've rigged
>wires to get sparks, starter motor, fuel pump etc. Once we get the
>engine running, the whole bloody loom is coming right out.
>
>
>> so:
>>
>> place engine at TDC, #1 firing stroke, check that rotor points to #1 lead,
>> check that other leads are in sequence, as per the book.
>>
>
>What's the simplest way to find that ?
>
>Incidentally, its just struck us that despite the fact we were cranking
>the thing for an extended period, the battery didn't die. Can the valves
> stick after three years not running ?
>

No, but the rings do, which would mean lower compression. Mind you, my
V8 used to crank for bloody ages on a big battery when it refused to
start.

Alex