1.8 sounds like diesel

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I'd be very worried if the cam timing was out and the engine run for exactly this reason. The K-series is not a no-impact engine design, meaning that the valves can strike the piston heads if the timing is not correct. If a valve (or valves) have struck the piston face and bent as Nodge suggests, then they risk disintegration and complete engine failure at a later date.

If you have access to an endoscope, you can look down the spark plug holes and see whether there is any evidence of valve/piston contact. Otherwise, it would be sensible to lift the head to inspect carefully. If there has been piston/valve contact, I'd replace all the valves as a matter of course. I'd probably angst over the pistons too, but if low speed impacts and little obvious damage, I'd leave them but worry...

Pinking is premature air/fuel detonation that can occur when there is too much ignition advance, too lean a fuel/air mixture, fuel with too low an octane rating etc.
 
"pinking' or pre-ignition. When the timing is advanced to much the spark ignites the fuel mix before the piston is at the peak of its travel. It often sounds like a dry rattle when you put your foot down. If you have aligned the cams and crank pulley correctly it's unlikely to get pinking in a K series as the spark is managed by the ECU.

Note: when we set the timing on a K series 1.8 with the cam pulleys and crank pulley aligned correctly, as in the photo above, the pistons are halfway up the bores - this is referred to as the safe position I think. It is not TDC.

That link the Alibro put up above is an excellent reference.

Have you had the head off?

If you can please put a video on here with the motor running so we can hear what's happening.
 
As above: TDC is not the same as the crank "safe" position used to align the cam pulleys; TDC is approx 25 degrees before "safe". It sounds as though cam timing is now correct, but was quite a way out the first time if you timed everything to TDC.
 
Yeah maybe I just take top off. But now it has got more annoying fault. Blower works when car is started and works like 3-5 minutes and then shuts no matter what speed it stays dead. But when i turn off ignition and turn on again it starts working again.
And sometimes when I drive it may start working for few minutes.
I already changed blower motor.
 
Yeah maybe I just take top off. But now it has got more annoying fault. Blower works when car is started and works like 3-5 minutes and then shuts no matter what speed it stays dead. But when i turn off ignition and turn on again it starts working again.
And sometimes when I drive it may start working for few minutes.
I already changed blower motor.

A heater problem is more annoying than an engine problem. :eek:
 
yeap because i can drive with it even it sound like a diesel engine. but now it rains everyday and here is cold. can't see through windows :(
...and presumably in a number of weeks that condensation on the inside of the window will be ice.

It is a right pain having to de-ice both sides of the windscreen... and then stop do do it all again 50m after leaving home!
 
...and presumably in a number of weeks that condensation on the inside of the window will be ice.

It is a right pain having to de-ice both sides of the windscreen... and then stop do do it all again 50m after leaving home!

That's why I only buy cars with heated front screens these days. It saves all that faffing about with scrapers and sprays.;)
 
Yeap, but I found fault while I was changing switch. Some cable what should have come to switch wen't webasto and webastos relay was oxygenated. I cutted wires and connected them.
 
Yeap, but I found fault while I was changing switch. Some cable what should have come to switch wen't webasto and webastos relay was oxygenated. I cutted wires and connected them.
The 1.8 has a Webasto FBH? I didn't know LR fitted the FBH to the petrol FL1.:confused:
 
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