04 TD4 new clutch time. Can anyone recommend a good garage North East UK

Freelander04 · Jul 25, 2022

Hey all,

It's just as the title says, it's time to replace the clutch, DMFW, slave cylinder and bearings on my trusted TD4. My clutch peddle is progressively getting worse on long journeys and without going down the bleeding route, new master cylinder etc the car is hitting 100,000 miles now so it's probably due tbf.

Befoe I start hunting quotes and borking at the price can anyone recommend a good garage they've used?

Also, parts wise is it a case of OEM as nothing else are up to standard etc and should I also replace the master cylinder with the slave or is the slave enough.

Finally where to buy them from?

Thanks

Nodge68 · Jul 25, 2022

Freelander04 said:
My clutch peddle is progressively getting worse on long journeys

What way worse?

Freelander04 said:
it's time to replace the clutch, DMFW, slave cylinder and bearings on my trusted TD4

It's very unlikely to need the DMF at 100k, they're generally good for 250k miles. Actually the clutch should last over 100k too, unless it's been used for towing.

Yes OE only for parts. The OE clutch is made by LUK, but any other premium brand will be as good.
Make sure you only fit a genuine master cylinder, as aftermarket versions are complete rubbish.

Freelander04 · Jul 25, 2022

Cheers for the reply.

I'm not entirely sure of how hard the life of the car has been tbh but gear changes are never an issue, its just the peddle which after 30 mins or so of driving becomes horribly stiff and makes driving and changing gear uncomfortable.

I'm guessing to change the slave cylinder which is probably the main issue here, the entire system has to come out.

Would people recommend just replacing the master and slave with new bearings leaving the fly wheel alone? Obviously if it goosed on inspection that would need to be replaced.

Cheers

Nodge68 · Jul 25, 2022

The slave is a concentric unit, so is combined with the release bearing.
The master could be your issue, and often fails while bleeding a new concentric anyway. I'd replace the master with a genuine unit, and see if the pedal feel improves. If not then you've not lost anything, as you'd be replacing it while doing the rest of the clutch anyway.

Alteredtech · Jul 25, 2022

Freelander04 said:
Cheers for the reply.

I'm not entirely sure of how hard the life of the car has been tbh but gear changes are never an issue, its just the peddle which after 30 mins or so of driving becomes horribly stiff and makes driving and changing gear uncomfortable.

I'm guessing to change the slave cylinder which is probably the main issue here, the entire system has to come out.

Would people recommend just replacing the master and slave with new bearings leaving the fly wheel alone? Obviously if it goosed on inspection that would need to be replaced.

Cheers

For the DMF leave it in place, I never change it, since it makes no noise.

For the clutch, change the full kit. Add the master cylinder since yours was never changed and has very old dirty oil. Go for good quality parts and you will avoid strange issues.

And don’t try any bledding on the hydraulic, it’s a nightmare …

I had a very bad experience with the clutch : less than two years after a clutch change the my pedal goes to the floor. The garage changed the master. And two months later the slave start leaking oil, the garage was happy to fix it for nothing …

Freelander04 · Jul 25, 2022

Cheers for the feedback gents.
A new master / slave and bearings it is then.

Should keep costs down a bit at least

Nodge68 · Jul 26, 2022

Freelander04 said:
A new master / slave and bearings it is then.

If you're removing the gearbox to replace the concentric, then you'll be sensible to replace the clutch cover and driven plate at the same time. You can get a LUK 3 part kit, which contains the plate, cover and concentric.

Freelander04 · Jul 26, 2022

https://www.lrparts.net/urb500060.html

Am I looking in the correct place or is JGS4x4 a better option etc?

Thanks

Alteredtech · Jul 26, 2022

Freelander04 said:
https://www.lrparts.net/urb500060.html
Am I looking in the correct place or is JGS4x4 a better option etc?

Thanks

This one is for 2.0 DI not for TD4 with a bmw engine...

Freelander04 said:
https://www.lrparts.net/urb500060.html

Am I looking in the correct place or is JGS4x4 a better option etc?

Thanks

This one is for 2.0 DI you have a TD4 with BMW engine.
I think good part number is URB500070, UUB000070 and STC000020.

Don't waste time or learn how to drive with no clutch

Freelander04 · Jul 27, 2022

So... £421.05 just on parts alone and that's not with a DMFW .

Throw labor on top of that and I'm officially borking at the price .

Are these prices OK gents?

I'm guessing getting the work done cheaper would mean cheaper parts etc.

Cheers

Alteredtech · Jul 28, 2022

Freelander04 said:
So... £421.05 just on parts alone and that's not with a DMFW .

Throw labor on top of that and I'm officially borking at the price .

Are these prices OK gents?

I'm guessing getting the work done cheaper would mean cheaper parts etc.

Cheers

The DMF is more than £400 alone

You should double the price for the clutch slave at less than £50 is not an oem quality ( Luk ).
You can look at the forum, there is many issue with cheap slave and master cylinder.

You also have the gearbox oil, and the IRD oil.
For the labor, a garage quote 5 hours

04 TD4 new clutch time. Can anyone recommend a good garage North East UK

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