I bought SWMBOs replacement Freelander 1 TD4 because the bodywork and interior was so exceptionally nice and in the full knowledge that it would need a new clutch.
When I bought it a couple of months back the clutch was heavy, and could also be provoked into slipping, though to make it slip I had to pull away on a hill in 2nd and use all the torques. In normal driving it was fine.
A few weeks ago it got worse, in the sense that the gear change was becoming stiff if the clutch pedal wasn't absolutely mashed to the floor.
So I decided time to empty my wallet and get a new clutch put in.
Last week it got a new DMF and clutch, and I also asked the mechanic to fit the TAZU metal slave cylinder off of SWMBOs crashed TD4. By the way the old solid flywheel conversion off of the crashed one is available if anyone wants it, slightly used. SWMBO said she wanted it smooth so I went back to DMF.
On picking up the car the biting point seemed a bit low (but definitely releasing properly). Apparently this can happen if there is a little bit of air in the system and sometime it works it's way out. Yesterday SWMBO could hardly drive it as she can't seem to get used to the biting point changing. It wasn't improving so I had a go at bleeding it again. This made it worse which resulted in SWMBO meltdown.
So this morning I had another go. I got a long enough bit of clear hose to run from the clutch slave bleed to the reservoir which enabled me to open the bleed nipple and just pump fluid round and around in a complete loop by pumping the pedal up and down. I really don't think that there's any air in it now. Certainly there were no air bubbles in the clear hose.
The pedal is still quite low, with clutch and gearchange all working correctly but with the biting point barely off the floor.
Any one else had this?
Time to change the master cylinder as well? After all it's the master cylinder that it is supposed to self the adjust the pedal height isn't it? and it's the only thing that I haven't changed. Maybe we actually had two faults (worn out clutch and master cylinder) all along and I only got one fixed.
When I bought it a couple of months back the clutch was heavy, and could also be provoked into slipping, though to make it slip I had to pull away on a hill in 2nd and use all the torques. In normal driving it was fine.
A few weeks ago it got worse, in the sense that the gear change was becoming stiff if the clutch pedal wasn't absolutely mashed to the floor.
So I decided time to empty my wallet and get a new clutch put in.
Last week it got a new DMF and clutch, and I also asked the mechanic to fit the TAZU metal slave cylinder off of SWMBOs crashed TD4. By the way the old solid flywheel conversion off of the crashed one is available if anyone wants it, slightly used. SWMBO said she wanted it smooth so I went back to DMF.
On picking up the car the biting point seemed a bit low (but definitely releasing properly). Apparently this can happen if there is a little bit of air in the system and sometime it works it's way out. Yesterday SWMBO could hardly drive it as she can't seem to get used to the biting point changing. It wasn't improving so I had a go at bleeding it again. This made it worse which resulted in SWMBO meltdown.
So this morning I had another go. I got a long enough bit of clear hose to run from the clutch slave bleed to the reservoir which enabled me to open the bleed nipple and just pump fluid round and around in a complete loop by pumping the pedal up and down. I really don't think that there's any air in it now. Certainly there were no air bubbles in the clear hose.
The pedal is still quite low, with clutch and gearchange all working correctly but with the biting point barely off the floor.
Any one else had this?
Time to change the master cylinder as well? After all it's the master cylinder that it is supposed to self the adjust the pedal height isn't it? and it's the only thing that I haven't changed. Maybe we actually had two faults (worn out clutch and master cylinder) all along and I only got one fixed.
