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'03MY L322 Petrol 114k5 miles

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by RichardSEL, Jan 4, 2019.

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  1. Saint.V8

    Saint.V8 Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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    Read my posts.....the ABS ECU is in the engine bay slightly in front of the battery tray.....

    EAS will go out if there is an ABS fault.....just because the Sensor was CHanged doesn't mean it will work for the next 10 years....they can fail within moments of being fitted (shouldn't but can).

    The reason I say look at the wiring to the ABS sensor is because I had an ABS fault on the day I purchased my previous L322....and would only show up when the wheel was turned to lock, and the wiring was rubbing on the rim, and according to research, it was a common thing if the wire wasn't routed properly on fitment of a new ABS sensor.

    Read my posts above about the ABS ECU internal issues and do further research on the net for the BMW ABS issues.....very common.
     
  2. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    Have had a read and what with the loom mods you did too, looks like you were in the wars a bit over this.
    I've been out to have a look at a couple of items and now find, since battery change, that the starting procedure's getting "iff-ey" too. Climb in, foot on brake turn key and it won't turn to start engine position. Remove key, lock and then unlock. Foot on brake, and then start will often do it. Have I lost some coding somewheres in the battery change this morning?

    For the ABS control unit SRD000133 you suggest a heat shield, and checking the connector. I understand from what you posted the unit's located on bulkhead/firewall to cabin, next to battery bay. Is this meaning engine side? If so, seems reachable then (even by me)

    You also mention that you had LPG in yours. So have I. Mine's a Prinz install so I hope I'm not also prone to heat build up there?

    The posts are a good few years old now, and none of the pix are shown

    Possible suppliers: 2nd Gear 4x4 are no longer, BBA-Reman presumably are only re-builders and don't stock re-built items (although I'll give them a bell tomorrow) Others are over a grand for new inc. VAT <swoon>
     
  3. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    Yes, reading my previous posts you will see that previous owner had changed NSF ABS sensor in September 2017. But unfortunately with an eBait cheepo that cost all of £22 (inc carriage) each! Obviously a cheepo Chinese clone that mimics the real OEM thing at £92. Which is why I've ordered up a Rangie specialist for the 10th to change out what's been done, to (a) get a known good sensor in there (b) connected properly (c) cable routed correctly to avoid any possible chafing. With today's battery change out all the good info I've had from in here will have been complied with
     
  4. Saint.V8

    Saint.V8 Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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    I'll see if I stall have the piccies somewhere, in the meantime....yes, the ABS ECU is on the engine side of the bulkhead above the passanger side cylinder head...near the exhaust.

    My previous L322 had a BRC system and the vaporiser coolant pipes ran under the ABS ECU - we currently have a Prins in our current L322 and the coolant pipes are run from elsewhere....so this is something to check.

    I battled with this recurring ABS issue for a while and was only solved by replacement ECU....as you will see from the pics of the internals and the video, no matter what else I would/could have done, it was the ECU that was at fault in the end.

    This is the ABS Ecu on our old L322.....as can be seen under it are the LPG coolant pipes....

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Disco1BFG

    Disco1BFG Well-Known Member

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    Ok, it's your money, but have a look at this first ;)

    www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123503745747

    will measure up to 100A DC .....

    ( and it's cheaper on the zone, too )

    OMO, YMMV :)
     
  6. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    Yes, that's what I fear -- that the ABS ECU is already toast. If there's no used ones about (the eBay ones are probably all shot which is why they're on eBay) that'd take my purchase price advantage away apart from the Prins install. Meaning I've then got no margin of safety if anything else goes south... And there's no guarantee the fault won't return being it's a design fault from what you describe...

    All will wait until tomorrow. You can have too much of a good thing... :)
     
  7. Saint.V8

    Saint.V8 Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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    Range Rover ownership is not for the faint of heart......especially the l322 onwards, parts, labour and the frequency it happens is painful.
     
  8. Henry_b

    Henry_b Well-Known Member

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    Worth it though ;)
     
  9. Saint.V8

    Saint.V8 Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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    Everyday......
     
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  10. gold rover

    gold rover Well-Known Member

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    Agreed
     
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  11. backinblack

    backinblack Well-Known Member

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    That looks like the one I just bought off Amazon. Not used it yet tho'. Got it to trace a battery drain but disconnecting the FBH fixed that.
     
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  12. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    "FBH" What's that? Why is it in here everyone seems to talk in acronyms?
    It's not a familiarity newbies would have:

    ABS (commonly known IMO) Anti-lock Braking System
    BECM
    CBC Cornering Brake Control
    DSC Dynamic Stability Control
    EAS Electronic Air Suspension
    EBA Emergency Brake Assist
    EBD Electronic Brake force Distribution
    EBV
    EKA (as in code or reset or resync)
    ETC Electronic Traction Control
    HDC Hill Decent Control
    LCM
    TPMS Tyre Pressure Monitoring System
    VANOS Variable System Valve Timing (German acronym VARiable NOckenwellenSteuerung)

    Strill some mysteries to solve. As the downloaded handbooks I've seen have been written by the Mysterons :confused:
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2019
  13. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    Following on from yesterday's change of battery, noticed afterward that there was some hesitation in allowing start.
    All doors secure, foot on brake, in Park, key in IGN turn, and key won't go into start position. The relays clunk when key's inserted however. When it happened yesterday, I used the key FOB to lock then unlocked again. That allowed the start position to be selected.

    Is there some secret procedure that has to be followed? Or, as I asked previously, has some coding somewhere been lost during battery change? All the lights light, head unit comes on...

    The second key doesn't work at all but its LED lights. Second key will operate the manual drivers door lock but then the interior lights don't come on. So guess its internal transponder's had it? Havn't yet changed the CR2016 cells in either key fob yet...

    Now I can't get it at all into Start. The gear lever's locked in Park.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2019
  14. RichardSEL

    RichardSEL Active Member

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    Just in case anyone needs in this thread following a battery change:
    Replying to my own post -- had to search back to 2007 for this. It worked for me culminating in a beep, all door locks disengaged and all windows rolled down. And that then allowed me to use that last known good key to start. Went around the block and just parked up. Haven't tried pushing my luck with the second key fob that never did work (but its blade does manually unlock)

    Reset Procedure for Key Fobs
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    reported as working OK for L322 '02MY "Mk III" And my '03MY just now...
    https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/l322-mk3-rr-key-fob-central-locking-reset.45227/
    With thanks to Swast4 for this post whey back in 2007

    Every signal from the remote handset contains transmitter identification code and a rolling code.
    The BCU checks the codes and only responds if the signal is from a valid transmitter.
    During vehicle production, remote handsets supplied with the vehicle are initialised to set their
    individual transmitter identification codes and synchronise their
    respective rolling codes with the BCU. If a transmitter loses synchronisation with the BCU, or if a
    replacement or additional remote handset is to be used with the vehicle, the initialisation procedure must be
    repeated. During the procedure, all remote handsets for use with the vehicle must be initialised.

    Initialisation Procedure
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    1. Ensure the vehicle is unlocked and the driver and front passenger doors are closed.

    2. Install a key/remote handset in the ignition switch, then turn the ignition switch to
    position I and back to position 0 in less than 5 seconds to put the BCU into the initialisation mode.
    Continue this procedure within 30 seconds of turning the ignition switch to position 0.

    3. Remove the key/remote handset from the ignition switch.

    4. Press and hold the unlock button for a maximum of 15 seconds. During this time, momentarily
    press the lock button three times within 10 seconds.

    5. Release both buttons.

    6. Successful initialisation is indicated by the BCU locking then unlocking the vehicle.
    If this does not occur, repeat step 4.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with all other remote handsets belonging to the vehicle (4 maximum).
    Begin the initialisation of each remote handset within 30 seconds of completing the previous
    initialisation, or the BCU will drop out of the initialisation mode and the complete procedure will
    have to be started again.
     
  15. Saint.V8

    Saint.V8 Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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    FBH - Fuel Burning Heater

    And there are loads more......

    Heres a few:

    IKE - Instrument Cluster
    EWS - L322 M62 Immobiliser ECU
    TQ - Torque Converter
    LUC - Lock Up Clutch
    DME - Digital Motor Electronics
    AGC - Adaptive Gearbox Control
    CAN - Controller Area Network (part of one of the data buses on the L322)
    MOST - Media Orientated System Transport (Fibreoptic Media system)
    EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation
    ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature
    HEVAC - HEating, Ventilation & Air Condioning

    There are loads more!
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2019
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  16. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    One thing to watch when changing fob battery's is make sure you do not loose the tiny little plastic bit up by the key blade, it looks like a random bit of plastic but is the transponder that is read by the lock when you put key in ignition loose that and key will not turn.
     
  17. gold rover

    gold rover Well-Known Member

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    As someone who states he is ex-navy, you must be aware every group has it's own acronyms, and every new person learns as they go. The vehicle ones used on here are not, in the main, Land Rover specific, they are industry wide. You have used quite a few of them yourself, before you tripped up on FBH.
    In the same manner as all the other things you haven't known, since you arrived, all you have to do is ask or google :rolleyes:
     
  18. Disco1BFG

    Disco1BFG Well-Known Member

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    Nah, what he has to do is learn Mysteron :D .... he even admitted he knows as much :-


    Hang in there @RichardSEL - it'll be worth it in the end, though I do agree it's a hell of a steep learning curve :)

    And, other search engines are available too :p :D:D:D
     
  19. gold rover

    gold rover Well-Known Member

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    Very true. I have found , since acquiring the Golden Girl, learning Mysteron has been invaluable. It is good to see new owners willing to learn ;)
    My bad :( , you are correct,other search engines are available. I quite like Bing :)
     
  20. backinblack

    backinblack Well-Known Member

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    The more things that break the more acronyms you learn, I've only had my L322 FFRR (there we go again) for 4 weeks and I already know ABS, FBH, LCM, :)
     
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