Be this my gearbox drain hole?
- Thread starter gR@HaM
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martinhollings
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you only need put a plug in it if going in deep water but it looks like you are getting ready for a new crank seal
thebiglad
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That is your bellhousing drain hole. The idea is that IF any oil leaks through the rear engine oil seal it doesn't get trapped in the bellhousing and muck up your clutch.
Only block off when wading through water.
okay, thanks - will have a look see to find where the oil has come from. Might just be the mess I made when draining the engine.
andyb66
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Doubt it unless that oil has floated up against gravity
Defo looks like a rear crank seal to me too.
dirtyrhino
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Seriously - go with Andy on this - get yerself a new seal asap.
I just had to replace mine as it was becoming more of a trickle than a drip. Twas fun ... now all i gotta do is put the crutch back in, stickbox thing back on and the spinning thingies that come out of it.
I just had to replace mine as it was becoming more of a trickle than a drip. Twas fun ... now all i gotta do is put the crutch back in, stickbox thing back on and the spinning thingies that come out of it.
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Is that not a ruddy big job?? Currently searching the tinterweb, just found this:
Gearbox/Clutch/Rear Crank seal on a Defender - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
Gearbox/Clutch/Rear Crank seal on a Defender - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
dirtyrhino
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Yeah - i's a pain in the proverbial. But, TBH, if theres a leak, it needs sorting.
In the defenders its easier to drop the boxes - the floor panels can come out. Discos you gotta work from underneath.
The good thing is the oil seal on the 300 is **** easy - 5 bolts and the whole plate and seal come off.
In the defenders its easier to drop the boxes - the floor panels can come out. Discos you gotta work from underneath.
The good thing is the oil seal on the 300 is **** easy - 5 bolts and the whole plate and seal come off.
andyb66
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^^^ Thats for a manual box. Entirely different situation removing the box (or engine) if you have an auto.
dirtyrhino
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I hate doing auto boxes. Torque converters are such a ruddy dead weight Nothing a pair of handles won't cure though.
Nothing a pair of handles won't cure though.Is it more work with an auto?
Would it be the kind of thing a reasonably competent home mechanic can do? This is my first project, coping okay so far doing a recon cylinder head (although cant fire it up yet until I get the fuel tank back in), attacking all the rust etc..
andyb66
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There is an 'inspection' plate that you have to remove and thru that you have to undo 3 (?) bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. Then when you move the box back or the engine forward you have to make sure that the TC is retained with the box and engaged in the pump.
Be careful as the TC will contain some ATF; you will need a catch tray to hand.
Be careful as the TC will contain some ATF; you will need a catch tray to hand.
Thanks, sounds fairly straight forward will try and dig the haynes out..
thebiglad
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andyb66
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thebiglad
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It won't all come out if you keep the box fairly level
Hiya mate, I wasn't referring to the oil in the box, as that can be drained out in the normal way - I was referring to the oil in the TC and I'm not sure how you get that out, as part of the 'box removal procedure?
andyb66
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You are right, you don't. You can only get that ATF out if you remove the TC from the pump......altho you can flush it out with the box in place.
