Anyone in leicester with a nanocom please

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Qell
We.done it now on a van. Is great. Car stops on the track you just push it out the way.
No muscle effort and dirty shoes.
Its a handy peace of kit them bars.
 
Qell
We.done it now on a van. Is great. Car stops on the track you just push it out the way.
No muscle effort and dirty shoes.
Its a handy peace of kit them bars.

So your P38 is going to be a stock car shunter?...thats when you can drive it fully sorted of course!!...good luck...
 
No is not. I had the plans of using it if need be but we welded a.steelcrossbar on an old transit and using that

Still thinking of an American police pushbar .
Evtl. Some.day. maybe.
The question is how much is it worth to put into mods the way it cost just to keep it driving.
 
ohm meter test while lock is still attached.
as i have no idea hoe to get it out without damaging anything else for now.
it was disconnected from the doorpack.
i did use the sound of the ohm meter. seems easy.
Wire colours for vehicles with wiring loom coming out of door latch (approx. 1996 onwards)

CDL Test:
Positive Probe: Red Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire
Move CDL switch down (sill lock button down)
Meter Open Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail

CDL Test 2:
Positive Probe: Red Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire
Move CDL switch up (sill lock button up)
Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail
result -

ohm meter makes beep when the latch on the door is up in unlocked status.
Nothing when down in locked status
….................................................................................................................
Key Switch Test**:

Positive Probe: White Wire
Probe: Black Wire Move
Key Switch down (turn key left in door)
Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail

Key Switch Test 2**:
Positive Probe: White Wire
Negative Probe:Black Wire
Move Key Switch up (turn key right in door) Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail
result -
turning the key to either side lock or unlock will make beep.
.................................................................................................................
Door Ajar Switch Test:
[ositive Probe: Blue Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire Door
Open (unlatched)
Meter Closed Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail

Door Ajar Switch Test 2:
positive Probe: Blue Wire
Negative Probe: Black Wire
Door Closed (Latched)
Meter Open Circuit: Pass Any other reading: Fail
result -

latch open unlocked / up position position it will make the beep sound
latch close lock position / down it will beep
…...................................................................................................................
CDL Motor:

Positive Probe: Purple
Negative Probe: Green
Resistance: 4Ω ‐ 20Ω

Superlock Motor:

Positive Probe: Pink
Negative Probe: Green
Resistance: 30Ω ‐ 1.3KΩ

result -
unknowen as no idea what to use on settings
…................................................................................................................
Wire colours for vehicles with vehicle wiring loom plugging directly into latch (approx. 1994 ‐ 1996)

I do not have those colours.

so .. what dos all that mean ? switch broke ? not broke ?

Closed circuit = continuity = beep.

Door ajar means open or closed. Try it again. Door open should be beep. Door closed is no beep.

Wiring changes with year. All years are in RAVE you just need to pick the right one. Yours is an early lock. Marty has a later motor. Yours has the separate plug for the earth. MGF were the same around that age and can be bought cheap on the Bay and cannibilised easily. However, you might do better just getting a refurbed one off Marty. He has a website called something like P38spares. Or send @martyuk a message on here.
 
Closed circuit = continuity = beep.

Door ajar means open or closed. Try it again. Door open should be beep. Door closed is no beep.

Wiring changes with year. All years are in RAVE you just need to pick the right one. Yours is an early lock. Marty has a later motor. Yours has the separate plug for the earth. MGF were the same around that age and can be bought cheap on the Bay and cannibilised easily. However, you might do better just getting a refurbed one off Marty. He has a website called something like P38spares. Or send @martyuk a message on here.
Morning mate I 'm sure I posted nearer the start to take the door lock off and send it to @martyuk for a refurb.
 
yes you did.
now i know it is the lock as even with testing it again it fails on that one single test.
Thanks GRRRR for explaining.

i a not sure if i want to go down them lines especially seeing the prices on a bloody part known to fail door lock system. which can be happen in 6 month or year again.

Range Rover P38 MKII Front Right Door Lock Latch Actuator (Right Hand Drive) 1995-1999
Price :
£225.00

by now i spend over 3k in this car buying and replacing .( and that not even with new Tyres ) i never ever would buy a second hand car for this amount over the last 20 year. not even a ferrari. and i never ever had this amount on trouble with any car. no matter which one. well, most got sold before spending a lot in.

i enquire what marty is asking for refurbished ones but i m sure i do not pay that amount.
i rather find any working door from a breaker and respray the whole car in one colour to match the door.
that even is cheaper.

ii seen a picture of someone made padlocks on all doors - i think he was in the same frustrating situation and just had enough. lol
 
yes you did.
now i know it is the lock as even with testing it again it fails on that one single test.
Thanks GRRRR for explaining.

i a not sure if i want to go down them lines especially seeing the prices on a bloody part known to fail door lock system. which can be happen in 6 month or year again.

Range Rover P38 MKII Front Right Door Lock Latch Actuator (Right Hand Drive) 1995-1999
Price :
£225.00

by now i spend over 3k in this car buying and replacing .( and that not even with new Tyres ) i never ever would buy a second hand car for this amount over the last 20 year. not even a ferrari. and i never ever had this amount on trouble with any car. no matter which one. well, most got sold before spending a lot in.

i enquire what marty is asking for refurbished ones but i m sure i do not pay that amount.
i rather find any working door from a breaker and respray the whole car in one colour to match the door.
that even is cheaper.

ii seen a picture of someone made padlocks on all doors - i think he was in the same frustrating situation and just had enough. lol
A second hand door lock is a waste of money, it will fail PDQ Marty's refurb with uprated switches will probably outlast the car.
 
There's plenty of latch pares out there at reasonable prices. Marty's are fully refurbished with new microswitches, so should last the lifetime of the car.

Otherwise get a spare & learn how to replace the parts yourself. The microswitches are quite cheap, and there several guides on here & rangerovers.net how to refurbish them yourself. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGF-MGTF...190862?hash=item523a0c1dce:g:870AAOSw0o9e6JiQ

I did both front doors on mine for about £20 each.
 
i can respray the car myself. so its only the paint. with laquer 50 quit. so much t that.
yes i send marty a email regarding prices for replacement. waiting of respond
pwood999
how do get the right parts.how do i know i dont buy stuff i throw in the bin because its the wrong ones.
i called a couple compays and those micro swtiches are not available .
 
Well. I knew I cant do this. I knew it 50 years ago thats why I never touched locks. I rather sold the vehicles.
And now I'm stuck and have no idea how to get this rod of without using a grinder and cutting the door to have proper access.

Its for me easier changing a door as fiddle with stuff i don't know how to do.


Anyone has any tips how to ?
 

Attachments

  • 20200812_130409.jpg
    20200812_130409.jpg
    333.5 KB · Views: 73
Well. I knew I cant do this. I knew it 50 years ago thats why I never touched locks. I rather sold the vehicles.
And now I'm stuck and have no idea how to get this rod of without using a grinder and cutting the door to have proper access.

Its for me easier changing a door as fiddle with stuff i don't know how to do.


Anyone has any tips how to ?
Unclip from door handle, and it simply swivels out. If I remember correctly the top of the rod is a push-in to the handle, but there may be a retaining clip. Don't try to pull it out, but use a long flat blade screwdriver. Insert between the rod & handle, and turn until the rod pops out. Re-install is best using long nose pliers to clip them together.
 
Got it out. Thanks. This clip came.out with it.
No idea how to get it back in.
May falling back on a new door if this continues.
Thats all jobs I always refrained on any car because of the complications.

All to little.fiddle.jobs and remember 100s of screws.

But is out for now.
Looking.clean and seem.ok but I didnt open the little thing yet.
 
Take pictures before, and at each step as you dismantle the lock. Makes re-assembly easier. Look for wear on the tips of the microswitches. This stops the levers actuating them properly.

Now you have the latch removed, if it's too fiddly then send the latch to Marty for refurb.
 
If you can only just get the latch/lock out, I think that changing micro switches is probably going to stretch you even more.
Wait for Marty to get back (he’s a busy boy but will respond soon I am sure) don’t destroy or bin you lock as Marty will want it in exchange or you will pay more.

J
 
Got it out. Thanks. This clip came.out with it.
No idea how to get it back in.
May falling back on a new door if this continues.
Thats all jobs I always refrained on any car because of the complications.

All to little.fiddle.jobs and remember 100s of screws.

But is out for now.
Looking.clean and seem.ok but I didnt open the little thing yet.
I think you will find a complete door will be mega bucks,breakers strip the locks,handles, mirrors,windows and door cards.they make more money that way.
 
Back
Top