Freelander 1 Hello from a new member..... And another ICE problem!

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pm1961

Member
Posts
28
Location
Fareham
Hi, Paul on the South coast and I've just (yesterday!) got my first Freelander 1 2004 HSE.... Generally very pleased with it and, as expected, a few niggles to work through.....

Firstly, I need my sounds sorted!

It's the Becker/HK Radio/Satnav system with seperate cd changer, amp and sub.

I've trawled a through a few threads now and I have slightly different wrinkles......

So, only one of the four main mid/bass speakers work. Their associated tweeters DO work..... And so does the sub.

I've taken one of the rear door speakers out, suspecting damp/corrosion/cone surround failure.... But, nothing.... it's fine and works on the bench when connected to a hifi amp. No damp whatsover in there, so I've got no real reason to expect any of the others to be suffering.

What confuses me is that I can see that the tweeters are fed from the same wiring as the mid/bass units. If the associated amp channel had blown then I wouldn't expect anything from the tweeters either?

So, what have I missed?

Bench testing the amp would, on the face of it, be a right pain in the arse..... finidng connectors and making up some kind of loom to measure outputs......

Anybody done this? Top tips gratefully received please!

TIA

Paul
 
Thanks, but not in this case.........

I'm hoping that if I can find a pinout diagram for the amp, I'll at least be able to do a continuity test on the speaker wiring....
 
Thanks, but not in this case.........

I'm hoping that if I can find a pinout diagram for the amp, I'll at least be able to do a continuity test on the speaker wiring....
On the other thread.;)

However the tweeter and full range unit are on the same wires from the amp. The full range gets all the audio signal, but the tweets has a capacitor on the input, so only gets the high frequency portion of the signal.
 
Yeh, I get that... that's why I'm struggling with why the mid/bass tests fine on the bench but doesn't work in the car when it's associated tweeter does work.....
 
Yeh, I get that... that's why I'm struggling with why the mid/bass tests fine on the bench but doesn't work in the car when it's associated tweeter does work.....
I'd be looking at the speaker connections, or the wiring to the actual driver in the door. If the tweeter is working, you're getting audio to the door, so it can only be in the door harness, or at the speaker connections.
 
Agreed, thats why, if I know the pinout at the amp end, I'll be able to test the impedence of each speaker pair that the amp is "seeing" and work out if there's a problem with the connection.
 
Have you tried connecting full range speaker to tweeter connections? May be something going on between the two speakers
 
I'll give that a go.... Half the problem is that the wires and connectors are tiny..... e.g. the tweeter connection is essentially a 3 pin pc fan connector

Just got to find a non destructive way of trying.
 
So far, I have one good, working door - FR
Two partially working doors FL & RR..... Have taken the main speakers out and both test fine on the bench...
One dead door............ RL still to be tested.....

Concentrating on the FL at the moment, just to get me a stereo pair at least....

Corrosion of the connectors certainly seems to be an issue... I've cleaned up the spades on the speaker and it's made a bit of difference but not returned it to anywhere near normal.

Any good ideas for cleaning the absloutely tiny sockets on the speaker plugs? I can't see a way of disassembling the plastic bodies and they're too tiny to get any kind of abrasive in.....
 
I have successfuly cleaned some contacts using alcohol hand gel. How long it lasts I don't know.
if you could get a toothbrush down there, them thin single ones might work
 
Well, I've had my Hallelujah moment......

I couldn't work out why one speaker tests fine on the bench and the rest didn't, even though they're identical to look at and measure for resistance of the voice coil.......

I'm kicking myself for not seeing it earlier, but it was obvious once I turned the volume up..... The cones on the duff ones weren't moving (in and out piston motion) at all, hence the tinny thin sound.

I've ordered some aftermarket speakers which will need re-terminating of the speaker leads anyway, so that should overcome all the dodgy connections.

Fingers crossed...........

In the best traditions of CSI, I'm off back to the shed to do an autopsy of why they seized....
 
Turned out to be something I've never seen before.... The pole piece had detached from the magnet and shot off to one side thereby pinching the voice coil against the outer magnet.
Further disassembly showed why... I've only ever seen a speaker where the pole pieces are riveted together to ensure that it stays concentric.
Cheap arse Landrover/HK assembled theirs with double sided tape. That's what has deteriorated over time allowing the pole piece to shift, the voice coil to jam and hence the tinny, muted sound..
 
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Cheap arse Landrover/HK assembled theirs with double sided tape. That's what has deteriorated over time allowing the pole piece to shift, the voice coil to jam and hence the tinny, muted sound..

Well at least you found the issue the full range drivers.

You'll also discover that the sub driver suffers from voice coil failure, or the foam surround disintegrates, but thankfully there's a suitable replacement driver available at reasonable cost. ;)
 
The worst of it is..... but for a 'ha'porth of tar".......

The speaker was in really good nick.... all the usual failure points had been avoided.

The speaker cone looked like mylar and the surround was a butyl rubber that hadn't deteriorated in the slightest..... The tape/glue residue is easily seen........

I suppose every commercial product has to have a crappy bit..... otherwise we wouldn't need any more.......

On the up side, each voice coil had 5m of fine copper wire in it.... Treasure to a hoarder like me....!

20200630_230437.jpg
 
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