Discovery 1 300tdi front spot lights

[simp212]

Hi could anyone tell me if you need to buy a loom kit for front spot lights or is it wired already you just need maybe a switch or relay and of course the spot lights?
si

 

[nickh75]

relay from paddocks about 4-5 quid
it is easy to do, just make sure you got plenty of cable an plenty of connectors,
it does need a fuse in, i used a 15amp spade fuse, couldn't find a fuse holder so i used 2 spade clips a spade fuse an some black tape to insulate it.
hope that helps
nick

 

[simp212]

Thanks nick so there isnt a partial wired loom in there already i can extend from?? only reason i ask is by each head light i have two spare connectors one with two wires and one with three???
Si

 

[nickh75]

think those wire's are for headlight lift

 

[simp212]

yea i could see the three wire ones for that but god knows what the two wire ones r lol do you wire them to a sep switch or off main beam?

 

[metallicachick86]

Either that or local car shop/halfrauds.

They do a kit, made by RING, with relay, fuse and holder, wires (with proper connectors) and a switch (not that you'll need it for spot lights as it'll be connected to your main beam behind the headlamp connector) And instructions and some legal gubbins......

if you go for that you'll need a little more black wire for your earths for the lamps. Oh and some screws and washers.

I take it these are for extra lamps on the bumper/A bar. Or are you on about the ones in the front plastic bit at the bottom? if so, depends on the year if the wires are there.

 

[simp212]

Hi metallicachick yes extra lights on bumper/a bar .... i Have the spots ready to fit i was just mainly wondering if the two wire connector by each headlight was for them.. mines a P reg 1997 disco commercial also has special landrover stickers on the side ect ???

 

[Simon72]

Hope this helps you.

Only a quick drawing.

As you can see you will need the following:-
Inline Fuse
Switch
Relay
Connectors
Spot Lights
Wire.

 

[thebiglad]

Hi Simon, am I being a bit thick here, but on my car it looks like there are free plugs already in place behind the headlights and they LOOK as if they're there to accomodate spotlights that go on with main beam.

If they are, why do I need anything other than the spots themselves and some of the same sort of plugs to make the connection?

 

[Simon72]

Hi Simon, am I being a bit thick here, but on my car it looks like there are free plugs already in place behind the headlights and they LOOK as if they're there to accomodate spotlights that go on with main beam.

If they are, why do I need anything other than the spots themselves and some of the same sort of plugs to make the connection?

Not sure what those plugs are for I will try and find out, but I don't think they are for spots. Could be for self leveling motors???

 

[thebiglad]

Not sure what those plugs are for I will try and find out, but I don't think they are for spots. Could be for self leveling motors???

Hi Simon, no, they're not for h/lamp levelling as I've got that already, they just seem to be available.

I'll try and post a picture of them tommorrow.

Cheers for now

Dave

 

[metallicachick86]

Actually memory serves correct they might be for the fog lamps underneath on the fairing plasticy bit. I've asked before, it all goes to there on post 96's. Thats why if you don't have the fogs/cruise control etc you can add them by sticking the bits in, looms are already there.

And that thing simon72 put in was spot on (ba dum dum), but instead of these plug things your on about, you splice into the main beam wire on the plugs (see haynes manual). believe me we've done it alot!

 

[Simon72]

And that thing simon72 put in was spot on (ba dum dum), but instead of these plug things your on about, you splice into the main beam wire on the plugs (see haynes manual). believe me we've done it alot!

Cheers for that support ;-)

Could you possibliy help me on this post mate, I see you have roof bar lights ;-)
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/roof-bar-spot-lights-54455.html

 

[david451]

I stuck all my wiring at the back of the headlamp beside the battery, it makes it easy to get the live and earth, stuck the relay there with fuses both in the live feed from the battery and the live from the main beam headlamps just in case. Use the proper graded cable for the spots, not poofy stuff that will melt and see if you can get some heat shrink for the conections to keep the water out. Aldi's were doing a box of them.

I just stuck the fuses into spades but it's best to invest in a small fuse box from an assessory shop, or a couple of water proof tube type. Remember to stick in a heavy duty relay. On the relay side fit a smaller fuse from the headlamp feed, "the one that energises the relay" that way if the spots go bottoms up only they blow and not all your headlamps as well.

The spots come with fitting instructions and if you fit them as to come on with headlamps then they should be fitted as per the instructions, i.e the required distance from the outer edge of the vehicle and height from ground. If you don't care then just bang them on any place, I see many like this.

Best to pull the fuse out during M.O.T it saves ****ing about with alignment, therefore they are not tested. I set mine to light up the world, and they are never going to pass the test so I pull the fuse out.

 

[Simon72]

I stuck all my wiring at the back of the headlamp beside the battery, it makes it easy to get the live and earth, stuck the relay there with fuses both in the live feed from the battery and the live from the main beam headlamps just in case. Use the proper graded cable for the spots, not poofy stuff that will melt and see if you can get some heat shrink for the conections to keep the water out. Aldi's were doing a box of them.

I just stuck the fuses into spades but it's best to invest in a small fuse box from an assessory shop, or a couple of water proof tube type. Remember to stick in a heavy duty relay. On the relay side fit a smaller fuse from the headlamp feed, "the one that energises the relay" that way if the spots go bottoms up only they blow and not all your headlamps as well.

The spots come with fitting instructions and if you fit them as to come on with headlamps then they should be fitted as per the instructions, i.e the required distance from the outer edge of the vehicle and height from ground. If you don't care then just bang them on any place, I see many like this.

Best to pull the fuse out during M.O.T it saves ****ing about with alignment, therefore they are not tested. I set mine to light up the world, and they are never going to pass the test so I pull the fuse out.

Incorrect mate on the fuse part, if the spots do go bottoms up then due to they are isolated away via a separate supply across the relay contacts they WILL NOT affect the main headlights, that is the reason you use a RELAY which is just switching a set of auxillary contacts.

I never aligned my spots to anything and they flew through the MOT even with them being turned on when FULL BEAM was energised.

 

[metallicachick86]

Yeh i agree with simon again, plus it depends where you put it all, all my wiring is above the drivers side front wing, i used 'RING's kit that comes with fuse holders from between the battery and relay and all wire and stuff, with FULL instructions lol. Trust me done this ALOT. Oh and all connectors are covered in lots of insulation tape, most of it needs to be re done, so when it does i'll probably silicone seal most of it.

Simon look at your t'other thread

 

[david451]

Yeh i agree with simon again, plus it depends where you put it all, all my wiring is above the drivers side front wing, i used 'RING's kit that comes with fuse holders from between the battery and relay and all wire and stuff, with FULL instructions lol. Trust me done this ALOT. Oh and all connectors are covered in lots of insulation tape, most of it needs to be re done, so when it does i'll probably silicone seal most of it.

Simon look at your t'other thread

Yep simon yer right, but I was taught to protect every circuit, and since you have broken into the headlamp one to energise the relay, and even if run through the switch on the drawing don't you think it wise to fit a fuse to protect it. If the relay gets full of water or condensation or a wire chaffs etc won't it take out all the lights. I might be wrong here though but welcome your comments.

Your right with the mot, the lights are not tested, my mistake, we used to adjust them when I was a boy, perhaps it's changed or I'm getting too old, my wife would agree with the old bit. old cripply bastid I think she says, but still likes to spend me money, an won't come out in the landie wif me.

That's a good drawing, are you able to do one for the low water circuit when you fit a RR water cap with the low water sensor.

 

[discool]

David451 Re: That's a good drawing, are you able to do one for the low water circuit when you fit a RR water cap with the low water sensor.

The RR cap low coolent sensor is a normallly closed low current switch as it signals to an ECU. It's easy to wire a bulb/led fitted in the dash through it, but the bulb/led would be permanently illuminated unless the level dropped then it would go out.

There's someone on the internet (a LR site) that will sell a box of tricks that will convert the switch from the on state to an off state and therefore switch the lamp on when the level is low which is a better idea. Also a buzzer can then be connected in parallel with the lamp so to give an audio alarm as well.

Shame LR didn't fit the cap to disco's also.

Regards

 

[thebiglad]

The white plugs just behind each headlight are definitely for fog lamps.

A friend is round ours in her ES so I pulled a plug and one of the fogs went out!!!

 

[david451]

David451 Re: That's a good drawing, are you able to do one for the low water circuit when you fit a RR water cap with the low water sensor.

The RR cap low coolent sensor is a normallly closed low current switch as it signals to an ECU. It's easy to wire a bulb/led fitted in the dash through it, but the bulb/led would be permanently illuminated unless the level dropped then it would go out.

There's someone on the internet (a LR site) that will sell a box of tricks that will convert the switch from the on state to an off state and therefore switch the lamp on when the level is low which is a better idea. Also a buzzer can then be connected in parallel with the lamp so to give an audio alarm as well.

Shame LR didn't fit the cap to disco's also.

Regards

Don't understand either, and when they discovered it was a problem I guess they let the side down by not bringing out a conversion, or recalling them.


Thanks for that.