P38A Dangerously sluggish 2.5D

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Gvmclean

Member
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Location
Aberdeen
I have introduced myself to the board and would like to update on initial checks on my project (ish) 1999 P38 2.5D automatic. I found it was so sluggish up to the point that it felt almost dangerous. I know what you are thinking, aren't they all until you put a PSI box in them? Myself and my friend shoofled around in the engine and found that the EGR vacuum line had been disconnected and the boost pressure sensor line had been completely taken out!

Reconnected the EGR and a new boost pressure line and it immediately became a new beast! Albeit with the ABS and TC light still illuminated 3 days before the MOT is coming up....

Still no closer to being able to open the lower tailgate.
 
There is that I suppose. I just might have to invest in a Nanocom, which is sad for a Scotsman. I bought the EAS Unlock v4 from RSW but it has only been developed for the petrol engines and so I paid a lot of money for a paperweight!
 

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I will post a couple pictures of the pipes I reconnected later today when I'm with the old girl

Disconnecting EGR pipe will not change performance. Having MAP pipe disconnected will. Don't know about latest version of EASunlock, but the earlier free version certainly does do both petrol and diesel EAS.
 
There is that I suppose. I just might have to invest in a Nanocom, which is sad for a Scotsman. I bought the EAS Unlock v4 from RSW but it has only been developed for the petrol engines and so I paid a lot of money for a paperweight!
EAS unlock for the P38 works on ALL versions of the P38 and is free, If you paid, what you bought is ALLCOMMS for the L322.
You can download the P38 EAS suite from the internet or I can supply it on CD along with the cable for not a lot of cash which should suite a Scot.
As others have said, leave the EGR pipe disconnected and block the rubber pipe.
 
EAS unlock for the P38 works on ALL versions of the P38 and is free, If you paid, what you bought is ALLCOMMS for the L322.
You can download the P38 EAS suite from the internet or I can supply it on CD along with the cable for not a lot of cash which should suite a Scot.
As others have said, leave the EGR pipe disconnected and block the rubber pipe.
Bit of a stereotype mate.
 
EAS unlock for the P38 works on ALL versions of the P38 and is free, If you paid, what you bought is ALLCOMMS for the L322.
You can download the P38 EAS suite from the internet or I can supply it on CD along with the cable for not a lot of cash which should suite a Scot.
As others have said, leave the EGR pipe disconnected and block the rubber pipe.

The EAS unlock version 4 covers much more than EAS. It does Hevac, BECM, lock functions Etc. It covered the GEMS first then the THOR was added later. Whether the diesel will be added i do not know. Costs $187.00. But as said first free version covers EAS on all P38 models. And is free.
 
That's the one. I made a cable for the EAS functions but have the ABS and TC light along with HeVAC book lights, so needed something with a bit more bite to it. I didn't realise that Storey (RSW) had only developed it for the petrol engines and so it's all but useless to me. Tomorrow I'll photograph the lines that were detached which should provide a bit of clarification on the EGR and boost problems I found.
 
That's the one. I made a cable for the EAS functions but have the ABS and TC light along with HeVAC book lights, so needed something with a bit more bite to it. I didn't realise that Storey (RSW) had only developed it for the petrol engines and so it's all but useless to me. Tomorrow I'll photograph the lines that were detached which should provide a bit of clarification on the EGR and boost problems I found.

The ABS/TC and HeVac are the same, only the engine module is different so it should still work. With the Nanocom some functions only work with ignition at position 2 or engine running.
 
That's unsettling then. There are no sensor faults on my ABS system but I still have the lights illuminated. I would have thought I would at least get a short between two sensors even if it was just the ECU at fault. I think I have the Wabco D ECU
 
That's unsettling then. There are no sensor faults on my ABS system but I still have the lights illuminated. I would have thought I would at least get a short between two sensors even if it was just the ECU at fault. I think I have the Wabco D ECU
You do know that the ABS light soes not go out until you get above 5mph? Wabco D units do seem to fail.
 
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