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thats what has been throwing us all. gotta be driving the front wheels.
Series 3 driving on front wheels only
- Thread starter suburban
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puzzled me too but it does seem to have stopped doing it.
so after much deliberation I have concluded that it is possible the diff is the problem
apologies for the crappy pic again.
there were some bits of metal in the bottom of the pan and it looks like all the crown wheel bolts have snapped so no idea what could have caused that.
so I shall be getting that other diff and maybe have a go at sorting this one out over the winter when it is too cold to be rolling around on the drive.
so after much deliberation I have concluded that it is possible the diff is the problem
apologies for the crappy pic again.
there were some bits of metal in the bottom of the pan and it looks like all the crown wheel bolts have snapped so no idea what could have caused that.
so I shall be getting that other diff and maybe have a go at sorting this one out over the winter when it is too cold to be rolling around on the drive.
jamesmartin
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- louth lincs
thats fairly conclusive
jamesmartin
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- louth lincs
looks like servicing has been neglected or its used for wading going by the rust
tottot
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- west wales coast
I have had that happen on a trialer, Was a case of new bolts and away to go.
er guilty your honour, tbh I have never checked the diff.
but I think the po did a fair bit of offroading judging by the amount of mud inside the chassis and scrapes on the crossmembers when I got it
hopefully I will be able to get what is left of the snapped bolts out without causing any damage and bring it back to life sometime.
rob1miles
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The axle breather gets stuck open so when it goes into water and chills suddenly it sucks in water. The water lays in the bottom and corrodes the bolts when its standing. Common failure. Causes:
1 Not draiing the oil and changing it, if you do this you discover the water and get it out.
2 Not taking off the breather and cleaning it every now and then.
3 Short jouneys that never get the axle warm and evaporate off the water.
New bolts should fix it.
1 Not draiing the oil and changing it, if you do this you discover the water and get it out.
2 Not taking off the breather and cleaning it every now and then.
3 Short jouneys that never get the axle warm and evaporate off the water.
New bolts should fix it.
it does do mainly short journeys, originally I got it around 8 years ago as a cheap - and cool - potter about car no ved, classic insurance etc. plus the air down here is fairly damp as we are only about 5-10 mins walk from the sea and all the salt won't help. the trip to Exeter is the longest journey it has done since we have had it.
there have been many times where it has stood for a few weeks especially over the winter.
put new breathers on a couple of years ago, they were stuck or at least the rear one was, they came as a set of two so I did both.
bought some new bolts from Ashcroft but they don't seem to do the locking plates which is what all the chewed up metal is.
all being well with the new (used diff) I should be able to drop it back to her on sunday.
there have been many times where it has stood for a few weeks especially over the winter.
put new breathers on a couple of years ago, they were stuck or at least the rear one was, they came as a set of two so I did both.
bought some new bolts from Ashcroft but they don't seem to do the locking plates which is what all the chewed up metal is.
all being well with the new (used diff) I should be able to drop it back to her on sunday.
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check the front diff at the same time and fix axle (and gearbox) breathers.
It might be worth draining gearbox oils and replace.
It might be worth draining gearbox oils and replace.
I will indeed, was going to fit the diff tomorrow but it suddenly dawned on me that the purchase of a diff gasket and some diff oil might be advisable, doh, still the forecast for Friday is better anyway 
got new prop bolts on order too, one was badly rounded and I made it worse but managed to get it off without resorting to cutting.
managed to find lockplates for the crownwheel bolts at dingocroft
got new prop bolts on order too, one was badly rounded and I made it worse but managed to get it off without resorting to cutting.
managed to find lockplates for the crownwheel bolts at dingocroft
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- A bit sarf of Dorking
Sorry, I haven't been paying attention.... If 'borrowing' the one I have here will help, just say. As I said, I don't want to sell it because I'd like to keep one in reserve, but if you replaced it with another half decent one in the reasonably near future that would be fine.
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- A bit sarf of Dorking
Oh, and.. while you're hiding from the rain underneath it - I think your yellow knob mechanism is probably as full of mud as mine was, which is why you're getting unexpected front wheel drive. The relevant bit is a little recess on the top front of the front transfer box extension - there's a little pin which needs to be free to move up and down, completely buried on mine, but you should be able to dig it out with something like an electrical screwdriver.
Edited to add all the letters this feckin Microsoft keyboard is leaving out.
Edited to add all the letters this feckin Microsoft keyboard is leaving out.
rob1miles
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Seconded, the rod the pin unlatches also gets stiff, the end is under the liitle steel cover on the end of the transfer case, its worth taking that off and cleaning up the rod end so it slides in and out of the box.
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is it possible that it is stuck in 4wd and that has blown the rear diff?
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- A bit sarf of Dorking
Certainly wouldn't have done it any favours, but with the mud lubrication it wasn't long for this world.
ok will check the pin thingy tomorrow, not looking good weatherwise here at the mo but should be better this afternoon.
wouldn't be surprised if my daughters lead foot has something to do with the diff. don't know why but all 3 of ours developed lead feet after passing their tests, if the pedal isn't touching the floor it isn't pressed
wouldn't be surprised if my daughters lead foot has something to do with the diff. don't know why but all 3 of ours developed lead feet after passing their tests, if the pedal isn't touching the floor it isn't pressed
wouldn't be surprised if my daughters lead foot has something to do with the diff. don't know why but all 3 of ours developed lead feet after passing their tests, if the pedal isn't touching the floor it isn't pressed
Obviously there are other considerations to this problem, but considering the history she has had with it in the short time it has been in Exert (judging from your other posts) a stern word on treating an aging classic correctly might be in order. I no longer allow certain people to drive mine as they try and treat it like a modern car and have no mechanical sympathy whatsoever!
very good of you to offer, managed to get one now.
