Disco 2 M & Lights flashing when engine is cold

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I got mine from the old "Green oval" website, but that no longer exists.
Try disk 1 from:-
http://www.myrangerover.co.uk/rave-workshop-manual/
If it doesn't work then try the downloads kindly supplied from @sierrafery's dropbox url's above.
Some say that they have trouble with RAVE on Windows 10, but I have been able to get it to work, but only from the Win 10 desktop mode not the "metro" mode or whatever they call it.
 
I got mine from the old "Green oval" website, but that no longer exists.
Try disk 1 from:-
http://www.myrangerover.co.uk/rave-workshop-manual/
If it doesn't work then try the downloads kindly supplied from @sierrafery's dropbox url's above.
Some say that they have trouble with RAVE on Windows 10, but I have been able to get it to work, but only from the Win 10 desktop mode not the "metro" mode or whatever they call it.

I tried "myrangerover" link but all I got was the same as the others, plus it said:-

RAVE is the Land Rover Workshop Manual, this is a software based system that will only run on Windows 32bit machines.
RAVE is a discontinued product and Land Rover moved their documentation and workshop manuals to Topix which requires a paid subscription.

I think as I have an apple Mac it's not going to work.
 
I think as I have an apple Mac it's not going to work.
Yep! That would be the reason,
Get yourself a cheap Windows laptop, one you don't mind getting a bit mucky or scratched. You'll find it useful particularly if you want to use something like the Lynx diagnostic code reader in the future.
'Til then you'll have to use those dropbox links from sierrafery, above.
 
There is some conflict in Win 10 which doesnt let RAVE to open even though Acrobat works on other PDFs, my son is good with computers and tried everything without success, it worked on untill a point then after some system updates it stopped working
Works perfectly well on both my Windows 10 machines. As I mentioned above, I've copied all files to a specific folder on the comuter and run it from there (well actually from the icon on the desktop that Brian mentions.

I also have a copy of RAVE for my wife's Rover 200 coupé which also works fine.
 
From your answers I do not think your battery is causing the fault.
When the ignition is turned to position 2 the electronic automatic transmission ecu ( eat ecu) receives this information and simultaneously reads the voltage signal received from the xyz switch nominally 12 volts.

The eat ecu constantly monitors the signal received from the xyz switch and if the signal ceases for more than a fraction of a second ( when changing gear manually), through a short or open circuit, misaligned or faulty m&s switch or voltage drop caused by poor battery when cranking engine it triggers limp mode and flashing m&s lights immediately.
If it were a faulty battery I would expect the fault to be present soon after starting the car certainly before you drove off and you would be starting in 3rd gear (default settings for limp mode).
The problem with intermittent xyz switch circuit faults is that the fault does not clear itself when the cause ceases only when you close the system down so you don't know how long the fault is present.
If you have access to nanocom, hawkeye or test book diagnostic tools you can read live data from the xyz switch in both the bcu and eat ecus.
When the fault is active note the signals to the wxyz feeds when selecting prnd321 at both bcu and eat ecus and compare them with each other and the table found in rave in the automatic transmission section. This may indicate if you have an electrical circuit fault.
Be aware if you use nanocom you may need to reverse the column headings from wxyz to read zyxw in either the bcu or eat table, it will be apparent when you compare them with rave table. This is not fool proof but could help.
If you don't have a copy of rave the official land rover discovery work shop manual you can download it free on the d2boysclub forum and read up on automatic transmission to better understand your problem.
I would also experiment by driving some distance in 1st gear manually to see if you can create the fault in 1st gear, then 2nd , 3rd and finally d changing manually each time to see if you can pinpoint exactly when the fault occurs as it could be a physical fault in the gear box or the transmission fluid that that changes when it warms up.
Hi Roy, Now that the weather has improved, I have today tried your experiment ref driving in 1st etc. So from cold in 1st nothing happened BUT I tried to change to 2nd and 3rd and D but it appeared to remain in 1st regardless of where the stick was, then with increased revs the jolt and the flashing lights came on. Now that the weather has improved the engine warmed up quickly and after 4 restarts all was well.
As I have apple mac I have given up trying to get RAVE, 3 disks down and then I find it only works with a windows pc. (just thought I would mention that).
Thanks for your help.
Bryan
 
You could try down loading the workshop manual, electrical Library and diagrams from the link by sierrafery as pdf files as these contain detailed descriptions of the automatic transmission body control unit and electronic automatic transmission ecu.
If you haven't already you need the fault codes read from the EAT ecu and the engine management ecu and post them on here where someone will post their meanings.
 
You could try down loading the workshop manual, electrical Library and diagrams from the link by sierrafery as pdf files as these contain detailed descriptions of the automatic transmission body control unit and electronic automatic transmission ecu.
If you haven't already you need the fault codes read from the EAT ecu and the engine management ecu and post them on here where someone will post their meanings.

Hi Roy, Yet again many thanks for your help, I have now pdf copies of the Workshop manual, D2 Circuit diagrams, and D2 + 03 Electrical. These docs take some handling but I have now copied them to my 27" screen which is so much better. Now I need time to investigate them and have printed off one or two pages.

Bryan
 
You could try down loading the workshop manual, electrical Library and diagrams from the link by sierrafery as pdf files as these contain detailed descriptions of the automatic transmission body control unit and electronic automatic transmission ecu.
If you haven't already you need the fault codes read from the EAT ecu and the engine management ecu and post them on here where someone will post their meanings.
Hi Roy, I have an update - 1. Had the battery tested today, and it came up with a figure of 12.17 v, which is lower than the 12.3v as specified in the pdf manual, so my mechanic is going to put a new battery on tomorrow night so that he can test the car COLD the following day. 2. He put his computer on the car and the fault reports "Transmission Fault - Stall Speed Monitoring"
 
You need to find a tech with better understanding.The 12.17v is meaningless, you need to monitor the battery voltage during starting and also what it is doing whilst running.Batteries get a good kicking during cold weather,especially with short journeys,so to see this figure after a short journey is not surprising. When was the EAT ecu last cleared of faults ? What other faults have been logged in the EAT and PCM ecu ?
 
You need to find a tech with better understanding.The 12.17v is meaningless, you need to monitor the battery voltage during starting and also what it is doing whilst running.Batteries get a good kicking during cold weather,especially with short journeys,so to see this figure after a short journey is not surprising. When was the EAT ecu last cleared of faults ? What other faults have been logged in the EAT and PCM ecu ?
+1
Checking the voltage of a battery tells you no more than the voltage at the terminals at that time. The charging of a battery can be checked by measuring the voltage at the terminals while the engine is running above tick-over. Should be around 14.5 volts give or take.
To check the health of a battery you should ask the garage for a "drop test", a test where the battery is electrically loaded by a big resistor and the voltage is observed during the test. It should hold at 12 volts for the duration of the test.
Checking the voltage while the engine is cranking, the volts shouldn't drop below 10.5 volts because at that level the engine ECU won't work correctly.
The most accurate way to determine the state of charge of a battery is to use a hydrometer but unfortunately this isn't a test that can be done on modern sealed batteries.
 
Do a voltage check on your battery before starting, The autobox requires good stable voltage and will flash up the error you are getting, if voltage 12.7 and above you can assume battery ok and then look at cable to and from xyz switch. good luck
 
Do a voltage check on your battery before starting,

Do a voltage check on your battery before starting, The autobox requires good stable voltage and will flash up the error you are getting, if voltage 12.7 and above you can assume battery ok and then look at cable to and from xyz switch. good luck
Nobody can assume that the battery is OK untill the voltage is not measured while cranking the motor on the real vehicle where it's fitted..... no other test is relevant whatsoever ... each for his own if somebody believes something else.... PERIOD
 
Nobody can assume that the battery is OK untill the voltage is not measured while cranking the motor on the real vehicle where it's fitted..... no other test is relevant whatsoever ... each for his own if somebody believes something else.... PERIOD

We have now had the battery checked 1. Cold Engine off, 2. Ignition on, 3. Crank the engine, 4 Engine running. - ALL tests were excellent and there is no problem with the battery.
 
We have now had the battery checked 1. Cold Engine off, 2. Ignition on, 3. Crank the engine, 4 Engine running. - ALL tests were excellent and there is no problem with the battery.

Hi brain, have you tried Pheonix in Wombourne the bloke there jim is a land rover specialist and has looked after mine for years and he won’t rob you
 
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