Disco 2 Instrument Panel Bulbs

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nanocom can miss SLABS system fault codes even if there is one logged that's a fact cross checked by me with hawkeye.... i'm almost sure that there is a blanked or not working warning lamp,,,, unless the ECU is making tricks
 
I've not pulled the binnacle off yet but according the Nanocom there are three faults :

- 23-05 shuttle valve switch electrical fail - intermittent 023 times
- 03-01 lower accelerometer signal not changing
- 08-02 upper accelerometer signal not changing

It is the traction control and ABS lights which appear not to come on even if forced on.
 
|I didnt mean the green HDC cos that's for system activation but the amber HDC fault warning at the bottom...you should really get familiar with what's what on your vehicle, at least by lecturing the owner's manual .... now i'm sure that all the 4 amigos(ABS,TC,HDC, Brake) are blanked due to the SVS fault which otherwise is easy to fix... see the warnings

instr. D2.jpg
 
you need to ''unleash" the warning lamps first to see them on as it's normal then if you want to pay such money for a fix which can cost nothing your choice, the web is full with how to fix the SVSs just search and from my experience in this area(and i have some) the switch pack is rarely needed, the wiring mod is enough in most cases and that's costless , it's explained here Necessity of the mod = SVS fix(wiring mod option B) "graphic" explanation
 
I've not had a D2 for about 3 years so remembering all the warning lamps isn't that easy! Easier when things have been working properly for a while then stop, it's more noticeable. No the HDC warning lamp cannot be forced on. The HDC Brake warning lamp doesn't come on either (can just hear clicking).

you need to ''unleash" the warning lamps first to see them on as it's normal then if you want to pay such money for a fix which can cost nothing your choice, the web is full with how to fix the SVSs just search and from my experience in this area(and i have some) the switch pack is rarely needed, the wiring mod is enough in most cases and that's costless , it's explained here Necessity of the mod = SVS fix(wiring mod option B) "graphic" explanation
Getting the warning lamps going will be the easy bit! But going by the fault code, the "mod" is what is often required to resolve it?
 
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I've not pulled the binnacle off yet but according the Nanocom there are three faults :

- 23-05 shuttle valve switch electrical fail - intermittent 023 times
- 03-01 lower accelerometer signal not changing
- 08-02 upper accelerometer signal not changing

It is the traction control and ABS lights which appear not to come on even if forced on.

As @sierrafery has said, you will need to sort out the logged faults and the causes.
The "- 23-05 shuttle valve switch electrical fail - intermittent 023 times" fault is typical of a failure on the connector inside the ABS Modulator and will result in the "3 Amigos" fault indication every time. Very cheap to repair and no need to disassemble the brake system, just a bit of a fiddle to get the switch plate out and a bit of experience in soldering. Usually you don't even need a new switch plate.

Unfortunately, the modification is not an official Land Rover mod, consequently a garage is very unlikely to fit it for you mainly because of possible insurance complications, so you're going to have to do it yourself, with or without a mate to help.

That ebay stealer would seem to be a bit of a rip-off merchant IMO. By the time you've got into the system to replace the switch plate with his, you might just as well do the whole job yourself and save 85 quid.
In addition to the detailed information from sierrafery, I've attached the write-up on the "Option B" he mentioned and you can get some idea of how to do the job from this Youtube video:-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7hZQI1gfAg but there are loads of other pages at:-

https://www.google.co.uk/search?source=hp&ei=QTglWpO3IaOvgAbTponQAQ&q=discovery+2+svs&oq=disco+2+svs&gs_l=psy-ab.1.1.0i22i10i30k1j0i22i30k1l2.5848.9151.0.16714.11.11.0.0.0.0.135.1356.0j11.11.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.11.1350...0j46j0i131k1j0i46k1.0.p_K6VFi7WqE

The other two logged faults refering to the upper and lower accelerometers would indicate a problem on the Active Cornering Enhancement (ACE) system.
 

Attachments

  • OPTION B.pdf
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I can't figure out too much from that pic

The lack of LED’s! We’ve followed your instructions regarding the modification and all seems to be ok now, even the ACE faults have disappeared. We tested the switches first and they were fine.

The replacement binnacle I had in the workshop fitted straight in but I didn’t realise it was from a manual so had to set it back to auto (it was driving a bit gutless and then we noticed there was no D, 1, 2, 3 etc showing on the dash and sport/manual) I’ve also lost 50k miles off the clock! I tried to set this to the BCU but the Nanocom won't do it for some reason.

The only thing we did do different was we removed the whole unit, which meant we had to bleed the brakes afterwards, but they're still really spongy now!

Many thanks!
 
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The lack of LED’s! We’ve followed your instructions regarding the modification and all seems to be ok now, even the ACE faults have disappeared. We tested the switches first and they were fine.

The replacement binnacle I had in the workshop fitted straight in but I didn’t realise it was from a manual so had to set it back to auto (it was driving a bit gutless and then we noticed there was no D, 1, 2, 3 etc showing on the dash and sport/manual) I’ve also lost 50k miles off the clock! I tried to set this to the BCU but the Nanocom won't do it for some reason.

The only thing we did do different was we removed the whole unit, which meant we had to bleed the brakes afterwards, but they're still really spongy now!

Many thanks!

Under your circumstances, having pulled one binnacle apart that far, I would have been inclined to cannibalise the other binnacle rather than trying to fit it then change the various settings in the gearbox/instrument panel/BCU/other odds and sods.
That way you could then have put it back in place with everything working as it should.
 
Under your circumstances, having pulled one binnacle apart that far, I would have been inclined to cannibalise the other binnacle rather than trying to change the various settings in the gearbox/instrument panel/BCU/other odds and sods.
That way you could then have put it back in place with everything working as it should.

It didn’t take long, and the original one had already been butchered and I’ve no idea if those led’s are replaceable - general opinion was that they’re not so it was scrap as far as I was concerned. I could have potentially ended up with two scrap ones if I started trying to merge them together to make one good one
 
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