P38A Brake line replacement

[Grrrrrr]

The last few MoTs I've had an advisory that the brake lines are looking a little corroded. Assuming this weather improves sometime over the summer and stops raining I thought I'd give it a go. Never done it before but that's the fun ...

So, I need a shopping list. Copper-nickel seems to be the stuff to use.

Wammers states here that 3/16" is the right diameter pipe and the tube nuts are 10 x 1mm but not how many or how much pipe. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/brake-line-replacement-which-fittings.288063/

IrishRover states here that I need M10 tube nuts and 3/16" pipe: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rear-brake-lines.113644/ but not how many or how much.

So, questions:

1) How much 3/16" copper-nickel pipe would I need to buy to do all four corners from the modulator?
2) Is all copper-nickel stuff the same grade or should I be looking for something? Does this look reasonable? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1217...rlsatarget=pla-146857565346&adtype=pla&crdt=0
3) I'll need a bending tool to make it look nice so was thinking of this: http://www.screwfix.com/p/laser-pipe-bender/12569?kpid=12569&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping - Auto and Cleaning-_-Shopping - Auto and Cleaning&gclid=COrz78L1hM0CFRYTGwodCHYM1w Look OK?
4) I'll need a flaring tool. The professional ones with a nice lever etc are £200! That's the same as main stealer pipes! Anyone tried either of these and would they be easy for a beginner?
a) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pip...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item232a6ce9c6
b) http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/On-Car-Brake-Flaring-Tool
5) Brake nuts. Do I need any female connectors? Not sure how many male connectors I need but surely they'd be enough here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-x-1mm...564077?hash=item2a67784e6d:g:OtoAAOSwtO5XI2t7
Alternatively I guess I could just cut off the ones on the old lines?

6 Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks for any pointers.

 

[tomcat59alan]

The last few MoTs I've had an advisory that the brake lines are looking a little corroded. Assuming this weather improves sometime over the summer and stops raining I thought I'd give it a go. Never done it before but that's the fun ...

So, I need a shopping list. Copper-nickel seems to be the stuff to use.

Wammers states here that 3/16" is the right diameter pipe and the tube nuts are 10 x 1mm but not how many or how much pipe. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/brake-line-replacement-which-fittings.288063/

IrishRover states here that I need M10 tube nuts and 3/16" pipe: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rear-brake-lines.113644/ but not how many or how much.

So, questions:

1) How much 3/16" copper-nickel pipe would I need to buy to do all four corners from the modulator?
2) Is all copper-nickel stuff the same grade or should I be looking for something? Does this look reasonable? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1217...rlsatarget=pla-146857565346&adtype=pla&crdt=0
3) I'll need a bending tool to make it look nice so was thinking of this: http://www.screwfix.com/p/laser-pipe-bender/12569?kpid=12569&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping - Auto and Cleaning-_-Shopping - Auto and Cleaning&gclid=COrz78L1hM0CFRYTGwodCHYM1w Look OK?
4) I'll need a flaring tool. The professional ones with a nice lever etc are £200! That's the same as main stealer pipes! Anyone tried either of these and would they be easy for a beginner?
a) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pip...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item232a6ce9c6
b) http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/On-Car-Brake-Flaring-Tool
5) Brake nuts. Do I need any female connectors? Not sure how many male connectors I need but surely they'd be enough here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-x-1mm...564077?hash=item2a67784e6d:g:OtoAAOSwtO5XI2t7
Alternatively I guess I could just cut off the ones on the old lines?

6 Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks for any pointers.

You will probably find all you need in your shed J Pity your not nearer, I've all the gear you need.

 

[Grrrrrr]

You will probably find all you need in your shed J Pity your not nearer, I've all the gear you need.

That is another option, obviously. If there is a member near Bucks with the kit and they're willing to loan then I'm happy to supply a few beers.

 

[Dopey]

If you ring paul, the same workshop that you was at when Max sorted my car out, have a word with him and he might do it for you if you cant get the gear together, it might be cheaper to go down that road, if you still have my phone number text me and I will give you pauls number, I dont have yours

 

[Grrrrrr]

If you ring paul, the same workshop that you was at when Max sorted my car out, have a word with him and he might do it for you if you cant get the gear together, it might be cheaper to go down that road, if you still have my phone number text me and I will give you pauls number, I dont have yours

Thanks. Not sure if I still have your number. Got Max's card somewhere.

I'm going to give it a go myself.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Any advice on the shopping list, chaps? I think I'll go for:

1) 25' in the first instance and see how 1 side goes. I might jujst do the rears as the fronts are inside the engine bay so don't get as much crap on them.
2) Could do with some expertise on that one still.
3) Going to head down Screwfix at the weekend.
4) Going for the cheaper 1, tool a. Got a good review on youtube by a mad irish backstreet mechanic who reckons it does steel.
5) Will get a bag of male connectors. Could still use some advice on whether I'll need female ones too though.

 

[wammers]

Any advice on the shopping list, chaps? I think I'll go for:

1) 25' in the first instance and see how 1 side goes. I might jujst do the rears as the fronts are inside the engine bay so don't get as much crap on them.
2) Could do with some expertise on that one still.
3) Going to head down Screwfix at the weekend.
4) Going for the cheaper 1, tool a. Got a good review on youtube by a mad irish backstreet mechanic who reckons it does steel.
5) Will get a bag of male connectors. Could still use some advice on whether I'll need female ones too though.

You should only need to do the rears from where they are jointed behind O/S wheel arch liner. 25' will do it with ease. Both rear pipes go down the O/S of the chassis.
If you look at RAVE for pipe runs, pages 20 and 21 Description and operation are transposed. Illustration on 20 is described as L/H drive but is actually R/H drive. And visa versa for illustration 21. Which is actually L/H drive but says R/H drive.

 

[tomcat59alan]

I did the ones on the Black one, two 4 metre pipes from the o/s/f wheel arch, where there is two female double connectors, to the rear. Then two across the back axle. The black one is a 96 and they do change a bit but I think it's shown on Rave. So a few quick measurements for the pipe and 8 male connectors should see you ok.

 

[wammers]

I did the ones on the Black one, two 4 metre pipes from the o/s/f wheel arch, where there is two female double connectors, to the rear. Then two across the back axle. The black one is a 96 and they do change a bit but I think it's shown on Rave. So a few quick measurements for the pipe and 8 male connectors should see you ok.

Maybe pre 1997 can be done with tank in but not later version, unless you have elbows and wrist that dislocate with wafer thin arms and hands like a young girl.

 

[tomcat59alan]

Maybe pre 1997 can be done with tank in but not later version, unless you have elbows and wrist that dislocate with wafer thin arms and hands like a young girl.

Now your talking Tony, young girl's with dislocating wrists. far better than the arseholes playing "football" on the box. If you know more tell me, if you dont, make it up. ps. I did mine with the tank out.