Rear brake lines

Hi guys
I need to replace the rear brake pipes on my late 99 Rangey. Usual corrosion problem! 2 questions - looks like a fiddly but OK job - any comments? I've checked usual supplier web site for made-up pipes, no-one seems to do them. Is it a trip to the local Land Rover dealers or does anyone know who can supply them?
Aren't I pleased to be on LPG!!!!
Regards
Shropshire-Ranger

I assume you mean the copper pipes?

I have just replaced one side on my Classic i.e. from diff to caliper, and it cost about £5 to get my local independent car spares shop to make one up for me. Add to that about £2.50 for 250ml of brake fluid.

You wont get pipes off the shelf, so you need to take in your old pipe(s) to get them made to the right length and with the right unions on it.

It was an easy job, but the unions took quite a bit of effort to loosen, and the new ones needed to be done up very tight to get a seal.

Pete

shropshire-ranger said:

Hi guys
I need to replace the rear brake pipes on my late 99 Rangey. Usual corrosion problem! 2 questions - looks like a fiddly but OK job - any comments? I've checked usual supplier web site for made-up pipes, no-one seems to do them. Is it a trip to the local Land Rover dealers or does anyone know who can supply them?
Aren't I pleased to be on LPG!!!!
Regards
Shropshire-Ranger

Click to expand...

You won't get made up pipes anywhere i would think. You don't need to change the entire pipe just make up a length back to a good area and use a female-female connector to couple it up. You of course will have to fit a tube nut to end of cut pipe and flare it.

I replaced the complete set of solid brake pipes for the rear of my P38 a few years ago following a MOT advisory.
I happened to be in the UK at the time and bought a coil of 3/16" copper brake pipe from John Craddock in Cannock for around £15. I also sent for a packet of M10, fine pitch tube nuts from Ebay to replace the rusty old ones.
I already had the flaring kit and pipe bender. The pipe bender is not a "Must have" but enables nice neat bends to be made without the risk of kinking the tube.
The most awkward part of the job is the run from the union on the rear axle, across to the drivers side of the car, under the petrol tank. The run from there to the front of the car is easy compared to that!!
Remove the front drivers side wheel arch cover and you will see a connector which joins the pipe from the modulator block/master cylinder..which will be as good as the day it was fitted, to the rear brake line so there is no need to replace the front section.
Be prepared to have loads of ****e drop on you whilst you are removing/replacing the pipes. If you can remove the old pipes without too much damage/distortion they can be used as templates for the new ones. I must say that the finished job looked just as neat as the old runs and the condition of the copper pipes after about 2 years is still as good as new.
You can get the flaring kit for about £15 from Ebay and also a small hand bender.

TIP:..Don't forget to put the tube nuts on the pipe before you flare the ends !!