Disco 2 crankshaft axial play?

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sierrafery

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One for the mechanical gurus... a friend of mine who had serious problems with flex plate failures(broke 3 in one year without forcing it) just called me to report that he might have found the reason: there is a more than normal axial(front/rear/front) play in the crankshaft , the questions are:
1. what could have caused that?
2. can this be fixed without stripping the engine?
 
AFAIK The only things limiting the crankshaft end float are the thrust washers. If they have suddenly gone, then the crank will certainly move much more than spec.
If the end float is too much it will be damaging the big ends, pretty quickly!
Seems a strange fault though, how did he check the end float? Hes not mistaking a flex in the crankshaft pulley for end float is he?
Mark
 
+1 ^^^^^^


I'd go with worn, faulty, disintegrated or missing thrust washers. An example of what and where of thrust washers can be seen at item 14 on page 12-1-4 of the RAVE workshop manual for the Disco 2. This is just an example, I know it's not a Td5 engine you're talking about.

If that is the case, then it won't be easy to fix without stripping the engine.
 
One for the mechanical gurus... a friend of mine who had serious problems with flex plate failures(broke 3 in one year without forcing it) just called me to report that he might have found the reason: there is a more than normal axial(front/rear/front) play in the crankshaft , the questions are:
1. what could have caused that?
2. can this be fixed without stripping the engine?
how much play it often feels greater than it is, i wouldnt have thought end float would be the issue lack of it certainly
 
Thanks for the answers guys, the man who works with autoboxes checked and told him that's the reason for so many flex plate failures but that guy's business is only in autobox repairs he doesnt fix engines so i thought i ask around to make an ideea before some schmuck from the main dealer invents something else... so presuming that thrust washers are the issue can they be fited without stripping the engine(sorry but i'm quite dumb with mechanics),.... btw, any part number for those wahsers
 
I renewed mine when I did my rebuild, you have to take one of the main bearing caps off, on a TD5 its the centre one.
It may be possible to change the washers without dropping the crank, not def about that though.
On TD5,s if you remove a bearing cap you are supposed to replace the bearing shells not sure about other makes.
But again it would be surprising if just the thrust washers had gone.
Has he dropped the oil out yet? If the washers have broken up, the backing will probably be in bits and should stick to a magnetic sump plug.
Did you say its an auto?
You can prematurely shag thrust washers by spending hours sitting in traffic with a car in gear and your foot on the clutch, so if its an auto it wouldnt happen.
Mark
 
Thanks for the answers guys, the man who works with autoboxes checked and told him that's the reason for so many flex plate failures but that guy's business is only in autobox repairs he doesnt fix engines so i thought i ask around to make an ideea before some schmuck from the main dealer invents something else... so presuming that thrust washers are the issue can they be fited without stripping the engine(sorry but i'm quite dumb with mechanics),.... btw, any part number for those wahsers
err5345, id remove no 3 main brg cap and see if washer will push round and so out ,after first checking endfloat with a dti first, it allways important to measure torque converter depth and drive plate protrusion with depth been a mm or 2 greater, there should be no pressure on thrust washers from an auto unlike a manual which has to resist clutch release
 
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