BennehBoy's D2 adventure

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Reassembled the head:

Hydraulic followers in:
IMG_20141115_115526.jpg


Cam cover coated in proper sealant, masked off the edges where the cam sits to stop it being squeezed onto the cam with clamping pressure:
IMG_20141115_120456.jpg


Journals & followers oiled, camshaft dropped in with timing at roughly TDC:
IMG_20141115_120648.jpg


Cam carrier fitted - the rocker has to be fitted on top and the 6 bolts torqued down to 32nm radiating out from the centre, this compresses all the springs and gives a nice fit before torqueing the remaining 13 bolts down to 25nm:
IMG_20141115_123042.jpg


IMG_20141115_123048.jpg


Just needs the EUI adjusters doing once fitted to the block now.
 
Cylinder head swap cracked on with!

Rocker cover off, and there's some nasty grime stuck to the underside, the oil is NOT in good condition at all - that said the cam is in great condition so no the filters are doing their job:
IMG_20141130_103348.jpg


Dropped the oil and coolant, removed the turbo, top hose, intercooler hoses, front cam cover off, wiring loom disconnected and fed back through inlet manifold, timing set to TDC and pins inserted, head bolts out, timing sprocket tied to chain, chain tensioner out, vac pump oil feed out, various nuts n bolts off:

IMG_20141130_103405.jpg


Mmmm pizza...
IMG_20141130_103353.jpg


IMG_20141130_103414.jpg


Just need to disconnect the FPR feeds and it can be lifted off:
IMG_20141130_103426.jpg


Most important tool is on the stepladder (I'm 6 foot and still can't reach without the back of the bay easily without a ladder!).
IMG_20141130_103441.jpg
 
Head coming out:
IMG_20141130_110242.jpg


HG looks fine (it's only been on for 5K miles!):
IMG_20141130_110250.jpg


Underside of duff head looks ok still:
IMG_20141130_110425.jpg


Pistons look fine:
IMG_20141130_110457.jpg


Block deck is pretty clean:
IMG_20141130_110536.jpg


Manifolds and FPR removed from old head:
IMG_20141130_112455.jpg

IMG_20141130_112502.jpg


Harness out, should fit new, but will see how this one goes:
IMG_20141130_112616.jpg


Heatplugs out of new head, they are Beru but were a bit 'wobbly', swapped in the 5k old ones in from the old head:
IMG_20141130_113111.jpg


Turners cocked up again and sent the wrong FPR gasket, they did this last time, you can see 'early' written on the bag but they send a 15P type, ffs, will have to re-use the old gasket:
IMG_20141130_115543.jpg


Replacement head built up, the AMC heads are a LOT heavier than the stock one:
IMG_20141130_120129.jpg

IMG_20141130_120123.jpg


New HG on:
IMG_20141130_120703.jpg


Head lifted on:
IMG_20141130_120718.jpg

IMG_20141130_121730.jpg


Refit is the reverse of removal....

Apart from new top hose:
IMG_20141130_140828.jpg


Injector asdjusters all done:
IMG_20141130_162724.jpg


Oil in, coolant in, fuel rail purged twice, but it won't start :( Watch this space...
 
thats a dirty engine ,has it done many miles since oil change

And this is why the head is being replaced, the oil is coolant contaminated, that's why the head looks so filthy, the oil/coolant mix is just sticking to everything.

Anyhow, I can't get the bastard to start now, I've purged the fuel rail 5 times. Suspect it might be a low voltage scenario, nanocom says the batt is only at 11.6V which aint good - probably from all the cranking.
 
And this is why the head is being replaced, the oil is coolant contaminated, that's why the head looks so filthy, the oil/coolant mix is just sticking to everything.

Anyhow, I can't get the bastard to start now, I've purged the fuel rail 5 times. Suspect it might be a low voltage scenario, nanocom says the batt is only at 11.6V which aint good - probably from all the cranking.


Battery on charge overnight and try again tomorrow?
 
Decided I'd see what was coming out the dipstick and oil filler cap, before there was tons of water vapour. Absolutely nothing visible coming out today - although that's at cold start. I'll run it up to temp and check again, but I'm really encouraged!
 
td5 always seem to run the coolant lower than the level, but maybe thats just old motors that use it up!

they always seem to level out below the line though!
 
td5 always seem to run the coolant lower than the level, but maybe thats just old motors that use it up!

they always seem to level out below the line though!

I've found that on 2 or 3 of mine. At cold they always settle about 1/2inch below the cold level.


Dave
 
I've found that on 2 or 3 of mine. At cold they always settle about 1/2inch below the cold level.


Dave

Yeah quite a few folks have mentioned this but mine always tended to sit wherever I'd left it.

Anyhow I topped it up and went for a 45 minute run at varying work loads (driving miss daisy through to thrashing the arse off it), and the level has stayed at full.

Still not going to say it's sorted though, will give it some time.
 
Yeah well I don't want to think how much I've spent chasing this issue.

Never again will I be using the place that 'pressure tested' the head.
 
Yeah well I don't want to think how much I've spent chasing this issue.

Never again will I be using the place that 'pressure tested' the head.

Glad you have finally got it sorted out,at least you have the satisfaction of knowing you have fixed the problem and that you have rebuilt the engine to a high standard,well done.;)
 
Back
Top