Diff and tfr box bearing part numbers

[the_wolf]

I hate starting a thread solely for the sake of finding out part numbers but its not proving easy. Im after the correct part numbers for the pinion bearing for a front diff and the front output bearing on the transfer box of a 1996 N reg 300tdi 110 i.e. both bearings that the prop is attached to. Any other bits and bobs i need the part numbers for would also be gratefully appreciated . Ta in advance.

 

[trax]

check the oil levels btw, if the seal can damaged you might be low.

 

[the_wolf]

Seal seems to be in good knick but thatll be getting replaced too. Ill be giving it a mini service when its back on the road but it needs a new bearing before that happens

 

[trax]

i don't like how that's sheared off

it almost looks like the front diff has locked. what way do the props spin?

also looks like it has chopped a wire

 

[the_wolf]

Front diff and centre diff are perfectly fine. Flange must have had a crack or something in it and its just got bigger over time until its gone bang. Wires are a bit messy after the prop must have grabbed them but apart from an intermittent diff lock light its not done any other damage. Weld up the chassis rail, bang down that hole and plate it, new bearings and new prop, sort the diff lock warning light wire and itll be all good.

 

[the_wolf]

Bollocks. Just reading through this and its not as simple a job as id hoped http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/how-replace-diff-input-bearing-64301.html

It would probably be a lot easier to get a complete diff i guess

 

[vilguy]

If I have these axles off trax you could have the front diff if needed?

 

[the_wolf]

Yeah itll probably be the easiest option mate. 24 spline ja? Im sure i can rebuild my fubared one in slow time once i have the landy good to go. Just let me know anyways, if need be ill bring you the axles down.

You get my PM?

 

[vilguy]

Im going to trax's to pick up the roof rack and assorted other crap im buying off him.

I did indeed get your pm and I reluctantly responded to your facebook post

 

[trax]

Bollocks. Just reading through this and its not as simple a job as id hoped http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/how-replace-diff-input-bearing-64301.html

It would probably be a lot easier to get a complete diff i guess

if it were me, i'd drain the front diff and remove the input flange and outer bearing. have a look to see if there is any damage. if not stick it back in and tighten up.

if your outer bearing is knackered remove it and feel the race. replace and stick it back together until you can sort it later.

you can do all that with it still attached, doesn't take too long esp since your prop is off.

 

[jamesmartin]

output bearings on t/box are stc1130 and diff pinion bearings are 539706g and 539707g though as youve found out its best with diff out, but not so bad then if your competent

 

[trax]

output bearings on t/box are stc1130 and diff pinion bearings are 539706g and 539707g though as youve found out its best with diff out, but not so bad then if your competent

ah well that's wolf knackered :lol:

 

[vilguy]

ound:

 

[harry2012]

When doing the bearing on the transfer box it's got a fookin great circlip on it that's a bastard to get out (assuming you are replacing it in situ). Get some good circlip pliers, and order a new circlip.

Also the vids show using a slide hammer to get the shaft out. As I'd bought a new flange and shaft anyway I left the flange bolted to the shaft after I'd removed the circlip and smacked it out with a hammer. Same way putting it back in.

 

[jamesmartin]

When doing the bearing on the transfer box it's got a fookin great circlip on it that's a bastard to get out (assuming you are replacing it in situ). Get some good circlip pliers, and order a new circlip.

Also the vids show using a slide hammer to get the shaft out. As I'd bought a new flange and shaft anyway I left the flange bolted to the shaft after I'd removed the circlip and smacked it out with a hammer. Same way putting it back in.

knipex are very good but the main thing is fitting thye circlip the right way round as holes are tapered and fitted wrong are difficult to remove

 

[trax]

knipex are very good but the main thing is fitting thye circlip the right way round as holes are tapered and fitted wrong are difficult to remove

oh joy, i never noticed that before.. ah well hopefully i won't need to worry about it for a while

 

[the_wolf]

if it were me, i'd drain the front diff and remove the input flange and outer bearing. have a look to see if there is any damage. if not stick it back in and tighten up.

if your outer bearing is knackered remove it and feel the race. replace and stick it back together until you can sort it later.

you can do all that with it still attached, doesn't take too long esp since your prop is off.

Flange is already out as I wanted to feel how much movement there was in the pinion. It was getting dark so I couldn't properly look for any damage but once I've got a new oil seal I'll pull that and the bearing and see what I'm dealing with.
If push comes to shove (or at least until I can get a replacement diff) what's the score with refitting the flange, tightening it up and firing a new prop on in the meantime. I imagine a bit of vibration but will it damage the diff or any other bits and bobs?

 

[trax]

depends if you liked your propshaft exploding experience :lol:

 

[jamesmartin]

Flange is already out as I wanted to feel how much movement there was in the pinion. It was getting dark so I couldn't properly look for any damage but once I've got a new oil seal I'll pull that and the bearing and see what I'm dealing with.
If push comes to shove (or at least until I can get a replacement diff) what's the score with refitting the flange, tightening it up and firing a new prop on in the meantime. I imagine a bit of vibration but will it damage the diff or any other bits and bobs?

how can you feel what movement in diff pinion is if youve removed flange ?

 

[the_wolf]

depends if you liked your propshaft exploding experience :lol:

I did not sir.

how can you feel what movement in diff pinion is if youve removed flange ?

Can you clarify what the pinion is incase I'm calling it by the wrong name. I mean the threaded and splined shaft that the flange fits onto.