P38 2.5 DSE Automatic Gearbox

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Read below, if the mounting bracket has been removed you are in the mire, you need a special tool to re-position it. There are no spacers or shims.

BMW DIESEL
3 REPAIR
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CKP SENSOR)
Service repair no - 18.30.12
Remove
1. Disconnect battery negative lead.
2. Remove cooling fan cowl. See COOLING
SYSTEM, Repair.
NOTE: Cowl removed to give access to
crankshaft pulley for manual cranking of
engine.
3. Disconnect CKP sensor multiplug.
4. Remove bolt securing CKP sensor to bracket.
Remove CKP sensor.
CKP Sensor Bracket - Adjust
CAUTION: CKP Sensor bracket must be
correctly positioned. CKP sensor damage
or failure will result from mis-aligned
bracket.
5. Rotate crankshaft until flywheel TDC pole is
central to CKP sensor aperture.
NOTE: Use mirror and lamp to view
flywheel poles.
6. Slacken bolt securing CKP sensor bracket to
cylinder block.
7. Position LRT-12-122 to CKP sensor bracket.
Secure with bolt.
8. Push CKP sensor bracket rearwards until tool
contacts flywheel pole.
NOTE: Tool positions bracket allowing for
correct air gap between CKP sensor nose
and flywheel poles.
9. Tighten bolt securing bracket to cylinder block.
10. Remove bolt securing tool to bracket. Remove
tool.
Refit
11. Fit CKP sensor to bracket. Secure with bolt.
Tighten to Max 8 Nm (6 lbf.ft)
12. Connect CKP sensor multiplug.
13. Fit cooling fan cowl. See COOLING SYSTEM,
Repair.
14. Reconnect battery negative lead.

Thanks.
Do you know where I can buy this special tool from?
 
If your very clever and lucky you should see where the old bracket was by its marks especially if you haven't disturbed the ajustment one .
 
Home now just had a look you got a bolt for holding sensor and one for what mimicked in and out movement ie closer further appart if you look at your old bracket you should have the mark left by the bolt that holds it and you could refit it in excacly the same position if not look at where the bracket ends once you have taken the new one off you should see a mark where the bracket ended on the block
Be a detective ;)
The last and final way if no marks would be to position a tab so the tip of the cps hits the face pull back 2mm .
Or measure the the length of cps secured on bracket to tip remove cps fix bracket allowing you to slide it make up a marked drill bit or similar add 2mm sorted no need for special tools if you know how.
 
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If your very clever and lucky you should see where the old bracket was by its marks especially if you haven't disturbed the ajustment one .

The bracket that goes to the block has been put back in it's original position as I can see where the bolt head was as it's clean. The crank angle sensor just bolts to the bracket.
 
Home now just had a look you got a bolt for holding sensor and one for what mimicked in and out movement ie closer further appart if you look at your old bracket you should have the mark left by the bolt that holds it and you could refit it in excacly the same position if not look at where the bracket ends once you have taken the new one off you should see a mark where the bracket ended on the block
Be a detective ;)
The last and final way if no marks would be to position a tab so the tip of the cps hits the face pull back 2mm .
Or measure the the length of cps secured on bracket to tip remove cps fix bracket allowing you to slide it make up a marked drill bit or similar add 2mm sorted no need for special tools if you know how.
Where did you get the 2mm gap measurement from? Hall effect devices need setting exactly, the gap is critical to correct function.
 
The bracket that goes to the block has been put back in it's original position as I can see where the bolt head was as it's clean. The crank angle sensor just bolts to the bracket.

The bracket only has foward and backward movement ie depth there is no side to side movment for the cps where it sits in its hole .
The reason datatek for 2mm
Is to allow for any sort of warp in the flywheel and its tongs any closer and you risk the tip being hit any further you will have loss of signal you
Make things to complicated and technical sometimes

On certain types of cps the air gap is more crucial like a Buick for instance 0.25
Plus angle but on the mere BMW thinks arnt so tricky .
 
The bracket only has foward and backward movement ie depth there is no side to side movment for the cps where it sits in its hole .
The reason datatek for 2mm
Is to allow for any sort of warp in the flywheel and its tongs any closer and you risk the tip being hit any further you will have loss of signal you
Make things to complicated and technical sometimes

On certain types of cps the air gap is more crucial like a Buick for instance 0.25
Plus angle but on the mere BMW thinks arnt so tricky .
So you know for sure that a 2mm gap will work? A flywheel should run true.
 
A 2mm out of true on the flywheel would be quite exciting.
You still have not said how you know 2mm is correct. If you are guessing then you are misleading the guy and it may still not work.

Air gap (sensor distance from toothed wheel) 1.0+/- 0.3 mm (0.04+/-0.01 in.)
 
The bracket that goes to the block has been put back in it's original position as I can see where the bolt head was as it's clean. The crank angle sensor just bolts to the bracket.

Forgot to Ask is it going now
Ps some times as the cps are wearing out they will work when cold and play up as things get hot erratic Idel is a symptom of a wearing cps oil contamination dirt all these factors can contribute to a failing cps
Like a say 1mm is the minimum gap the further away the weaker the signal so even a weak signal can play havoc
 
Forgot to Ask is it going now
Ps some times as the cps are wearing out they will work when cold and play up as things get hot erratic Idel is a symptom of a wearing cps oil contamination dirt all these factors can contribute to a failing cps
Like a say 1mm is the minimum gap the further away the weaker the signal so even a weak signal can play havoc
So 2mm was just a guess and probably would not have worked. I guess you call it complicating matters suggesting that bad information is worse than no information:rolleyes:
Hall effect devices are semi conductors, they don't wear out, they fail.
 
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So 2mm was jsut a guess and probably would not have worked. I guess you call it complicating matters suggesting that bad information is worse than no information:rolleyes:
Hall effect devices are semi conductors, they don't wear out, they fail.

It it not a guess it it the required gap as I have given you ask wammers if you don't belive me he answerd a post some time a go

Yes they do usually just fail but not always they can play up just before failing !
 
It it not a guess it it the required gap as I have given you ask wammers if you don't belive me he answerd a post some time a go

Yes they do usually just fail but not always they can play up just before failing !
But you have just changed your mind, it's now 1mm whereas you were stating 2mm, can't both be right.

They do go intermittant as is often the case with semiconductors.
 
But you have just changed your mind, it's now 1mm whereas you were stating 2mm, can't both be right.

They do go intermittant as is often the case with semiconductors.
Erm excuse me its 1mm minimum up to 3 mm 2mm is an hallway measure
If you look at the BMW tool its electronic and when the car it a tdc by adjusting the cps bracket it will light up the tester when its reciving a good signal .
There are also the depth manuel gauges too:)
 
Air gap (sensor distance from toothed wheel) 1.0+/- 0.3 mm (0.04+/-0.01 in.)

Erm excuse me its 1mm minimum up to 3 mm 2mm is an hallway measure
If you look at the BMW tool its electronic and when the car it a tdc by adjusting the cps bracket it will light up the tester when its reciving a good signal .
There are also the depth manuel gauges too:)
You obviously don't read your own quotes, you say in the top quote 1mm +/-0.3mm that equates to 0.7mm to 1.3mm not 1mm to 3mm
You are such a source of confusing inaccurate information.
 
Read and learn mr electronic

The functional objective for the crankshaft position sensor is to determine the position and/or rotational speed (RPM) of the crank. Engine Control Units use the information transmitted by the sensor to control parameters such as ignition timing and fuel injection timing. The sensor output can also be related to other sensor data including the cam position to derive the current combustion cycle, this is very important for the starting of a four stroke engine.

Sometimes the sensor may become burnt or worn out. The most likely causes of crankshaft position sensor failure are exposure to extreme heat when you have a gasket or crank problem, contamination from oil or other engine fluids that leaked onto the sensor, or wear over a long period of time. When it goes bad, it stops transmitting the signal which contains the vital data for the ignition and other parts in the system.

A bad crank position sensor can worsen the way the engine idles, the pistons fire, or the acceleration behavior. If the engine is revved up with a bad or faulty sensor, it may cause misfiring, motor vibration or backfires. Accelerating might be hesitant, and abnormal shaking during engine idle might occur. In the worst case the car may not start.

The first sign of crankshaft sensor failure, usually, is the refusal of the engine to start when hot but will start again once the engine has cooled.
 
Read and learn mr electronic

The functional objective for the crankshaft position sensor is to determine the position and/or rotational speed (RPM) of the crank. Engine Control Units use the information transmitted by the sensor to control parameters such as ignition timing and fuel injection timing. The sensor output can also be related to other sensor data including the cam position to derive the current combustion cycle, this is very important for the starting of a four stroke engine.

Sometimes the sensor may become burnt or worn out. The most likely causes of crankshaft position sensor failure are exposure to extreme heat when you have a gasket or crank problem, contamination from oil or other engine fluids that leaked onto the sensor, or wear over a long period of time. When it goes bad, it stops transmitting the signal which contains the vital data for the ignition and other parts in the system.

A bad crank position sensor can worsen the way the engine idles, the pistons fire, or the acceleration behavior. If the engine is revved up with a bad or faulty sensor, it may cause misfiring, motor vibration or backfires. Accelerating might be hesitant, and abnormal shaking during engine idle might occur. In the worst case the car may not start.

The first sign of crankshaft sensor failure, usually, is the refusal of the engine to start when hot but will start again once the engine has cooled.
You still haven't confirmed which of your many air gaps is the correct measurement.
That cut and past only confirms what I said, they can fail.
 
So 2mm was just a guess and probably would not have worked. I guess you call it complicating matters suggesting that bad information is worse than no information:rolleyes:
Hall effect devices are semi conductors, they don't wear out, they fail.

Give it a rest who's back tracing now

They dont wear out They fail your words
 
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