Repair Scheme

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stingrey

New Member
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82
Could someone please advise what the best course of action would be to repair the corrosion damage shown in the picture below. Is it an easy fix? What sort of costs would be involved to put it right? All the rest of the crossmember pick up points are corrosion free and it is bugging me that this isn't.

Many thanks for you feedback.
 

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Its Aluminium Alloy - what you are seeing is Galvanic corrosion caused by different electrical potentials on dissimilar metals. You will only stop this by isolating the two different metals and ensuring that no electrolyte (water) can bridge the two.
The usual method of reducing this is to passivate both materials, using some form of Chromate solution (most likely now illegal) such as Alocrom 1200 on Aluminium and Zinc Chromate on steel. Dont forget to use an Anti-galvanitic paste between the two.

good luck :).
 
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I fully understand the cause of the corrosion but I would like to know if there is a repair for this? Are replacement panels available? Are they easy to fit and at what cost? etc.......
 
Can anyone else shed any light on the best way to repair the area of corrosion shown in the photo?:confused:
 
Could someone please advise what the best course of action would be to repair the corrosion damage shown in the picture below. Is it an easy fix? What sort of costs would be involved to put it right? All the rest of the crossmember pick up points are corrosion free and it is bugging me that this isn't.

Many thanks for you feedback.
just wait a year and they will all match:D
 
Undo all the bolts across the rear cross member and remove them and then get a 2 inch wide, thin strip of aliminum that goes the width of the cross member and slide it in, drill the holes where appropriate and refit the bolts and paint.
That is the best repair that you can do. you will only have the one edge, but it will look ok. thats what i will do when mine goes like this.
 
if you can get area at the back ,cleaned to fresh metal you can stick a patch on aluminum epoxy repair type stuff then fill outer surface
 
I think the rear panels are only 50 quid plus your painting etc. Be carfeful with silicone and Aluminium because I thought RTV actually attacks the ally
 
New panel or repair it with a tig welder and tig as suggested but you need to buy the rubber insulating strips from LR not alot or use an old innertube to make new isolators
 
I just did this on my landy, new aluminium and a MIG welder setup with Argon and Ali wire.

Looks great.

Might not really be an option for you so adhesive and new metal might be easier here.
 
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