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Your welcome mate, glad you sorted it, thiese little probs can be annoying until you look in the right area, even then it can be hard to spot especially with the two at the back of the Diff.

Even the ex. boss @ L/R Driving Experience always maintained Hippo was better than I think he said any other L/rover on "Wet grass and Snow".

Thankyou Missing Link, excactly right except I didn't have time to explain in my last post in such detail,simply to say you need all available "fobs" when adding spares using Test Book etc.

That's not excessive, but I believe your original fob is needed as well as it is a rolling code system I believe.

That fault is usually the rear diff front mounting if i remember right.

All you need is a garage that uses test book or a compatible diagnostic machine,takes 5 minutes. If you are anywhere near birmingham try s.a.s auto's at yardley, ask for tom.

First thing to check is the rear differential mountings ( 3 of them ) the first to go is the forward one, you need to support the diff and loosen the bolts of the other 2 to move it sufficiently to extract the mounting. Check tosee if the bolt is central in the bush housing, the rubber on mine...

Try the blown fuse, 2 pieces of wire, 1 21w bulb method.

Have you checked for nails or a bit of metal ? (can be hard to spot sometimes )

Where's yer sense of adventure lads?

The IRD ratio problem was corrected in or around 2001 I believe but as mentioned a full 4 wheel track check is needed, also check handbrake cables are not siezed partially, causing rear brakes to bind, even slight binding will cause "tread blocking" as some call it.

Mine is a 1998 L-Series

Had same problem a year or so back, on mine the "slave cylinder" bracket had corroded and allowed the plastic clip that holds the cylinder in to slip partially out but enough to negate the movement of the piston rod, luckily I was able to knock it out of gear and "free wheel" into a Land Rover...

You would need to contact L/Rover service with engine number to make sure, but if it's a brand new engine I would bet on 112, but I would not take chances with anything like cam-belts.

Sounds like the I.R.D unit or Transfer box rear output bearing, but make sure it has correct fluid ( synthetic is the latest recommended fluid but if you have a 98MY vehicle, it could be " BLACK " as mine was, this is the original " FACTORY FILL " and needs changing. ( 1.1 litre or 2 pints )

If problem is connectors under seat, vaseline put into both pins and sockets should prevent it happening again provided you cure any serious carpet dampness.

4) Blower resistor pack needs replacing, £30+ or contact rezpax.com, much cheaper (£6 - £8 ) Changing unit is a piece of cake once you have replaced the resistors,easy as well if you can use a soldering iron. 5) Known problem with Tail door seal,easy to replace but expensive, (£100+)

You are probably right, it was the last few years they were in production I think, (to save on cost when they found 3 was enough in most conditions.

You may have found out by now, but I have a 98 Di, which has no pollen filter, I believe only vehicles with A/C have them. The inaccessable GLOW PLUG requires removal of F.I.Pump but Rover vehicles with L-Series engine are only fitted with 3 glow plugs from new. Sorry this message is late...

Took mine for a 4th gear blast up a dual carriageway before M.O.T. test this year as I was caught out last year, I do a lot of town and local journeys, passed with ease this time.