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Marky, really does sound like the car battery is flat if your not getting any responce on the dash. Failing that then its the BECM, and thats bad news. So lets hope its just the battery.

Well so far no real probs with the insurance, no excess to pay so a full payout, on thier value. Its a little down but its ok, as next week I would have had about a grand to spend to get it through the MOT. So its worth it to get shut. Yes whiplash and back injury as well resulted. :

Well some twazzak ran up the arse end of me P38, and tried snogging my back axle in an astra van. Whilst the rangy was stood still waiting to turn right. Result is me rangy has been written off. Wasnt much left of the astra, it burried itself almost to the windscreen so no debate there. The sad...

Mines a 96 DSE, and to resynch I put the key in the door lock and turn to unlcok, whilst pressing the unlock button.

It sounds like the key fob needs resyncing. Due to been stood so long with no powere the BECM will have lost synch. Try powering the car up again. Close the bonnet and all doors, making sure all the doors are unlocked before hand. Enter your EKA code. Then as you turn the key to unlock the...

That light normally signifies a problem with one of the temp sensors, and puts the engine managemnt into a safe map. i.e. no turbo boost. I would check the temp sensors for loose conections. Not your water temp, but the sensor around the intake.

I just bought a length of copper pipe. a flairing kit off ebay, and some nipples. Beware get the right nipples , i bought the wrong ones first time. Also use a chipless tube cutter. I used mine from my plumbing kit. stops you getting swarf in the bore. As to removing the tank. i didnt need...

Well i dint follow that procedure, as far as i remmeber, was 2 yrs ago. When I changed the pipes, i undid the diff end first, put the new pipe on, then undid the caliper end. Allowed the fulid to flow down the pipe and tightened onto caliper. Did the same on the other side. Then started the...

Your intercooler does look different. Mines a std and the out let pipes are cast aluminium. Yours looks like they are fabricated. Not sure if that means uprated or not. As to ECU it is mounted behind the battery the lid is held on by 2 cross head screws.

I did mine in the same way. Dont forget the ABS. I bled mine with the engine running, been fine for 3 yrs now. Damm now Ive said it.

You will learn to love your rangie. In one of those Love Hate relationships. In the main they are great, just lots of things to go wrong. Or make you think they have gone wrong. You will also find they are magic. The fault you thought you had will repair itself. Only to manifest its self...

I wouldnt worry, they all run cold. Heating in the P38 has never been the best, and with these temps i can do 50 miles before the needle moves.

Take the manifold off, its an easy remaval, and makes the job dead easy. I did leave the injection pipes on the injectors though. Didnt see the need to remove those. Stealers will tell you otherwise, just adds time to the job without any reason.

How I laughed yesterday morning driving to work watching all the muppits in there front wheel drive tin cans slipping and sliding all over the place, 1 person in the car only. We cruised past in my P38, 4 people in. with no worries waht so ever. All we could we could see was the muppits...

Hi there is an oil cooler, and it will be that that is leaking. It is under the turbo intecooler in front of the radiator. They split in the welds for the mounting bracket. When you buy a new one, also get new oil pipes as well. DO NOT TRY TO USE OLD ONES. They are impossible to remove and re...

I got ine from MAplins for £9.99

Answered my own question. Yes will lock on the key and open on the fob. phew.

Well after reading earlier posts on this subject, mine started doing the same. So tried the WD40 fix, and it worked, for a short time. Now its back, and WD40 wont cure it. So cant lock the dam thing. If I lock it on the key on the drivers door, will it unlock on the fob? Given all the issues...

before yo ustart the sequence make sure all doors and bonnet are closed, but unlocked. lift all the door locks by hand if not. Also make sure the key code lockout warning is not on the dash. Then start your inputs. lights should flash as you enter the code.

I have one, tried it through the cig lighter, wired to be live all the time, the charger kept blowing fuses. So have tried it wired direct to battery. To be honest I havnt noticed any change to battery drain issues. Now just stick battery on charge over night when its cold, like now. that seems...