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Thanks - luckily the timing belt is still in place and the car was still running for a while after the pulley fell off. I'll check it all again when I get the new bolt but fingers crossed it seems OK

It has. All nice and smooth now

Hi. Don't suppose anyone has a spare bolt and washer for sale. Currently stuck in corley services on M6. Oh and yes, it's a 1.8

Hi I have a similar aged 1.8 with, what looked like, IACV, TPS or coolent sensor issues. It turned out to be the connector at the ECU. When I had the ignition on (engine off) and moved the loom I could hear the IACV operating. Turned out to be a loose connection on pin 6 of the front row of...

Hi Emeye. I recently think I found the source of a series of issues that caused engine running problems on my old 1.8 Freelander. Turned out to be the loom - in my case it was the connector at the ECU. Obviously my be a red herring for you but worth a look.

Hi. I just thought the following maybe of interest. My 120K 1.8 R plate has been playing up recently with some intermittent issues. Firstly there has been an engine judder. This happens when either on a steady cruse or, most often, when slowing down with no pressure on the accelerator...

I’d like to second the wishes and also say a big ‘thanks’ to all the folks who have helped me keep my two old 1.8’s going for another year. As for fault free, I doubt it. Also find some of the threads fing funny! – defo the best forum out there

I look after two older Freelanders and found out the thread in the sump was stripped and both. Also needed large washers to stop the bolt head slipping into the hole in the exhaust bracket

Hi I'll second that re cheap cats - had the same issue this year

Evening all.. The temp gauge stopped working on my R reg 1.8 today as I was driving to the South West. Had a quick look and it appears that one (or both) the wires to the connector have snapped off right at the plug on the sender unit. No idea why but the head was off a few months ago and maybe...

Thanks - I'll get under and take a closer look

Hi again – 1.8 R reg My hippo has always has a bit of a resonance from the exhaust. A while ago I noticed that the mounting bracket from the front pipe to the IRD had started to pull apart at the weld on the exhaust. In fact after hitting a traffic cone that a kind lorry driver set spinning...

To be honest - yes. Full price part and 1/2 to 1 hours labour. You can DIY if you have some basic tools and a free couple of hours. Outside of a set of sockets/spanners you would need a trolley jack to support the engine

hi there - I have just changed one of these. Very easy to do and only took 10 mins. I already had the sump guard off, taking that on and off would add an extra 30 mins or so at a garage. The part (aftermarket) was about £50 good luck

Hi again I have been trying to find an aftermarket left hand engine mount for my R reg 1.8. The above is the LR part number and they want £230:doh: for one!!! – does anyone know if these are available anywhere (or will Northern Irelander make one up for me....) Thanks

Hi Everyone Well it’s been about 3K miles since anything fell of the car so only to be expected that something should come along. From reading all the posts its sounds like an engine mount giving up the ghost – increasing vibration and nothing obvious loose. Prop off at the mo while I sort out...

Hi - I did this on my R plate 1.8 and its pretty easy – takes about an hour. The one thing you need is a long extension bar to get the hub nut off. I tried using just an 18 inch extension with no luck – I even had a 17stone friend bouncing up and down on the end of it!! Once I got...

Thanks for the ‘check the simples’ nudge. When I checked the throttle linkage I found that the plastic actuator where the throttle cable sits (at the throttle housing) is all broken and the nipple at the end of the cable is only supported by the remaining bit of the moulding. Worked fine like...

Sorry - O/C = open circuit It starts fine - just got to sort out a tick over issue. Found that the plastic actuator where the throttle cable sits (at the throttle housing) is all broken and the nipple at the end of the cable is only supported by the remaining bit of the moulding. Worked fine...

Think if I start it again it will do the job for me....